Forum Index > Trip Reports > Snowking - west ridge 2018-07-13
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neek
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neek
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 10:59 am 
This story really starts with a failed attempt on the Illabot Creek route last year. I don't advise going that way. Or if you do, go above the area of intense blowdown that has completely obliterated the first quarter mile of the old trail. This part took me nearly an hour to clamber through, leaving not enough time to finish the route. The late start and prolific blueberries higher up didn't help either - this was in early September. Also I hadn't researched the route higher up much. I made it to Pt 6597 and called it a day. Here are a few photos from that trip.
2017-09-03 King Lake
2017-09-03 King Lake
2017-09-03 Snowking from the west
2017-09-03 Snowking from the west
2017-09-03 Buckindy, and yes that's Buck way back there on the right
2017-09-03 Buckindy, and yes that's Buck way back there on the right
Fast-forward to yesterday. Armed with knowledge and determination, I headed up the Illabot Creek road (in decent shape, with a few rough spots and potholes) to the Slide Lake trailhead to attempt the West Ridge approach which looked a bit nicer. After just a minute on the trail, I turned uphill and headed through steep mature forest.
A fairly arduous climb through forest
A fairly arduous climb through forest
Don't recall seeing this flower before but there were lots of them
Don't recall seeing this flower before but there were lots of them
Boulders thrown in to make things even more interesting
Boulders thrown in to make things even more interesting
Already??
Already??
In about an hour, at 4500 ft, the terrain mellowed out a bit and the forest opened up. It was an easy walk to the small pond at 4822 ft.
Friendlier terrain
Friendlier terrain
Pond
Pond
Continuing up, staying to the south of the ridge crest, there was a field of giant talus blocks to cross.
The traverse at 5200 ft from here was mostly pleasant. There were some areas of steep and dense brush below Ottabot Peak which also seemed to be a haven for bugs. But beyond this point they were practically nonexistent.
Mount Chaval from above King Lake
Mount Chaval from above King Lake
I turned south to stay on the ridge above King Lake, and then left the forest and was greeted with the familiar and lovely view of Snowking from the west.
Snow-covered slabs on the north slopes of Snowking
Snow-covered slabs on the north slopes of Snowking
I followed the ridge on the right, then headed across the snow field at center.  Probably should have stuck more to the ridge.
I followed the ridge on the right, then headed across the snow field at center. Probably should have stuck more to the ridge.
Friendly butterfly
Friendly butterfly
Baker above Ottabot
Baker above Ottabot
Beyond Pt 6100 I stayed to the south of the ridge, which consisted of much talus-walking.
South slopes
South slopes
North slopes and a good looking return route
North slopes and a good looking return route
Many North Cascades peaks coming into view
Many North Cascades peaks coming into view
Refill
Refill
More talus, some shifty
More talus, some shifty
Chaval
Chaval
Near the West Peak I crossed over to the north and followed the upper reaches of the Snowking Glacier below the steep Middle Peak to the base of the main peak.
Snowking Glacier
Snowking Glacier
I crossed back over to the south and, aided by snow, reached the start of the talus climb to the summit. Saw and heard a huge chunk of snow break off slabs in the distance and slide down. The summit wasn't difficult to reach and I didn't see a register although didn't look too hard.
Summit 360
Summit 360
Lakes: Neori, Found, Snowking, Cyclone
Lakes: Neori, Found, Snowking, Cyclone
Lake zoom
Lake zoom
Big crevasse
Big crevasse
Looking west
Looking west
Watched some of that slide (middle center) come down
Watched some of that slide (middle center) come down
Mutchler
Mutchler
After relaxing a bit I headed back down the talus and retraced my steps across the glacier.
Looking back
Looking back
The north slopes looked like an easy straight shot from here, so I went that way and had no difficulties.
Mostly a straight shot back to the ridge above King Lake
Mostly a straight shot back to the ridge above King Lake
tower
tower
Won't be so easy when the snow melts
Won't be so easy when the snow melts
Good water source
Good water source
Looking back
Looking back
Meadow where the south fork of Otter Creek starts
Meadow where the south fork of Otter Creek starts
Still going
Still going
Can't stop looking back
Can't stop looking back
Nothing eventful happened on the way back. The final bit of the steep forest was worse going down, and I was relieved to finally reach the Slide Lake trail.
Ottabot
Ottabot
Some day I'll do the standard Kindy Ridge route and see things from a completely different perspective. Distance: 12 mi (0.1 on trail) Elevation: 6000 ft Time: 11.5 hr
Track
Track
Summit photosphere

zimmertr
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RichP
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RichP
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 11:07 am 
Interesting route. up.gif

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mehitabel
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Joined: 23 Mar 2009
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mehitabel
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 12:46 pm 
is this way shorter than the kindy ridge route?

toujours gai toujours gai
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cartman
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cartman
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 1:18 pm 
Cool you had a great trip and got to finish what you started last year. Those meadows and snow slopes up high look like great alpine terrain. Mehitabel, my notes say the Kindy Ridge route was 18 miles RT and 9k of gain with all the ups and downs (this includes a descent to camp at Cyclone Lake).

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Schroder
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 1:18 pm 
I did that route at the end of July once with the slight variation of starting at the Illabot Creek Bridge and staying on the South side the entire distance, staying overnight at 5400 ft. Never touched a foot on snow & finding water was an issue. We decided to head out via that meadow in your photos at the head of Otter Creek and Slide Lake. That was a little easier than the talus and tangle on the lower ridge. It was a memorable climb that I never wanted to repeat.

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Bootpathguy
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Bootpathguy
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 7:52 pm 
neek wrote:
Watched some of that slide (middle center) come down
Watched some of that slide (middle center) come down
I wanna go there! There is one more lake below those 2 lakes. So much to see in that area Wonderful report up.gif up.gif up.gif Thanks for sharing

Experience is what'cha get, when you get what'cha don't want
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Kenji
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Kenji
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 9:42 pm 
Thanks for TR! Ever since I've read a TR on the West ridge high route years ago (maybe >20), I've been interested in this as a ski approach. Of course, I'm not sure how this compares to the infamous "fisherman's path" to King lake. I guess I'd have to find out soon...

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Brushbuffalo
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Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between
Brushbuffalo
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 10:00 pm 
I'd say you picked a fine alternative to the rut normale from the west ( the valley).. Most of us, I'm assuming, prefer a good ridge walk to a valley brushfest.

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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Justus S.
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Justus S.
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PostSat Jul 14, 2018 10:48 pm 
Nice!

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ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
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ozzy
The hard way
PostSun Jul 15, 2018 12:23 am 
I never knew that route was really there! Badass tr man, cheers! cheers.gif Which route is the better option in your humble opinion!?

“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
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rbuzby
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rbuzby
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PostSun Jul 15, 2018 7:03 am 
That view from the summit where you can see 7 different lakes, with Eldorado (etc) soaring in the background is un-beatable. Amazing that people are doing day trips up there, I thought it was a tough over nighter even when you could drive farther.

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cascadetraverser
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PostSun Jul 15, 2018 10:35 am 
Haven`t seen that route before. Very cool and well done.

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joker
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joker
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PostSun Jul 15, 2018 11:42 am 
Cool! Seems like the Kindy Ridge route will be a relative rest day for you ;-)

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Matt Lemke
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Joined: 15 Jul 2010
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
PostSun Jul 15, 2018 2:35 pm 
You were mentioning this trip when we went out for Azurite. Glad you made it happen! Looks fun smile.gif

The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!! SummitPost Profile See my website at: http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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OutOfOffice
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PostMon Jul 16, 2018 10:21 am 
up.gif up.gif

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