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xuanxier Member
Joined: 09 May 2017 Posts: 80 | TRs | Pics Location: Vancouver, BC |
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xuanxier
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Sun Jul 15, 2018 2:47 pm
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Jake Robinson Member
Joined: 02 Aug 2016 Posts: 521 | TRs | Pics
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You guys are crazy. 5 of these in 5 days took almost everything I had.
xuanxier wrote: | It’s not that bad, not at all |
If this is "not that bad, not at all" maybe I don't want to climb anything in the Rockies
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Matt Lemke High on the Outdoors
Joined: 15 Jul 2010 Posts: 2052 | TRs | Pics Location: Grand Junction |
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
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Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:58 pm
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Jake Robinson wrote: | If this is "not that bad, not at all" maybe I don't want to climb anything in the Rockies |
The rock in the Canadian Rockies is legendary, however the more popular routes are all cleaned out leaving some fairly solid rock. It's when you get into places no one has been or onto the glacial moraines it gets exceptionally heinous
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xuanxier Member
Joined: 09 May 2017 Posts: 80 | TRs | Pics Location: Vancouver, BC |
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xuanxier
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Sun Jul 15, 2018 6:53 pm
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You need 6 Custers stacked on top of each other and turns into Class 3-4 with complicated ledges and route finding (with heavy backpacks) just to get to the pitched climbing on Alberta, and from there it took us 18.5 hours return to tag the summit. One vertical mile of choss pile that's worse than Custer on the most part.
Whitehorn is even worse. 3-day full pack and 600 vertical meters of choss-covered concrete hardpacked moraine. We sent probably 30 microwaves down and anything below us on that path would be killed. Ended up searching for an alternative route down which avoided the worst of it, but the trade off was 45-degree bushwhacking for hours.
Wanna practice scree-on-slabs? Do west ridge of Sir Douglas. Even getting to the start of that ridge you gotta climb hard black ice and get showered by rock falls constantly, and that's before sunrise.
Robson, Patterson's Spur approach is another one to practice down-sloping 4th class choss, and yeah with 50+ lb backpacks for both up and down...
Deltaform and Hungabee has reputation, but is much better.
Custer is better than the above two by a large margin.
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Matt Lemke High on the Outdoors
Joined: 15 Jul 2010 Posts: 2052 | TRs | Pics Location: Grand Junction |
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
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Mon Jul 16, 2018 8:23 pm
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xuanxier wrote: | You need 6 Custers stacked on top of each other and turns into Class 3-4 with complicated ledges and route finding (with heavy backpacks) just to get to the pitched climbing on Alberta, and from there it took us 18.5 hours return to tag the summit. One vertical mile of choss pile that's worse than Custer on the most part.
Whitehorn is even worse. 3-day full pack and 600 vertical meters of choss-covered concrete hardpacked moraine. We sent probably 30 microwaves down and anything below us on that path would be killed. Ended up searching for an alternative route down which avoided the worst of it, but the trade off was 45-degree bushwhacking for hours.
Wanna practice scree-on-slabs? Do west ridge of Sir Douglas. Even getting to the start of that ridge you gotta climb hard black ice and get showered by rock falls constantly, and that's before sunrise.
Robson, Patterson's Spur approach is another one to practice down-sloping 4th class choss, and yeah with 50+ lb backpacks for both up and down...
Deltaform and Hungabee has reputation, but is much better.
Custer is better than the above two by a large margin. |
I can make all that much more manageable by cutting that 50 pound pack in half to 25 pounds with my cascades ultralight cult experience
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