Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Logan solo via Stehekin - 7/12/18 Bulger #93
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors



Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 1911 | TRs
Location: My van
Matt Lemke
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High on the Outdoors
PostSun Jul 15, 2018 2:55 pm 
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After day hiking Chiwawa Mountain I drove from Coles Corner to Chelan and got on the fast boat Wednesday morning from Fields Point, arrived in Stehekin at 11am, then took the shuttle bus to High Bridge. I started walking at 12:30pm towards the Park Creek Trailhead. The 4 miles to Bridge Creek went fast, then another 1.5 miles to Park Creek. I hiked these miles in my sandals. Switching to my tennis shoes, I started up the Park Creek Trail, elevation 2300 feet, which was in great condition sans a few blowdowns. The first 1000 feet is a steep ascent to get above the gorge where Park Creek dumps into the Stehekin River, then it flattens out and crosses back to the east side of the creek on a nice bridge. This was the worst part of the approach since it was sooo hot. I jumped in the ice cold creek where the trail crossed.

The next 3 miles are essentially pancake flat, gaining only 640 feet net elevation as the trail weaves up and down, and through the Goode burn area until reaching 5 mile and Buckner camps at 4000 feet near the head of the basin. Views of the SE face of Buckner, and the east face of Booker (aka Park Ridge) are extremely impressive. The trail then climbs steeply once again for 2200 feet to Park Creek Pass at 6200 feet. Amazingly the trail was designed to avoid all the slide alder swaths so none was growing over the trail  up.gif  There was some residual snow in the flat basin at 5750 feet but only a small amount and should be completely gone in a week or so. Park Creek Pass itself is a beautiful, and special spot in the North Cascades. It's certainly remote! A wildlife camera was actually in use at the pass looking for rare carnivores.

Looking up at Goode
Looking up at Goode
Buckner at the head of the valley
Buckner at the head of the valley
Looking down Park Creek
Looking down Park Creek
East face of Booker (Park Creek Ridge)
East face of Booker (Park Creek Ridge)
Nearing Park Creek Pass
Nearing Park Creek Pass
View from the pass
View from the pass
Wildlife camera
Wildlife camera

I continued beyond the pass and around the corner to the right and found a beautiful flat grassy spot amid some boulders and a small creek at 6000 feet just 10-15 minutes beyond the pass and set up bivy there. I still had 2+ hours of daylight left, so i enjoyed a nice meal and sat in the sun relaxing in solitude taking it all in. This is one of the furthest from any road spots I can think of.

I slept quite well that night under the stars and was up and moving by 5:15am. I began the long ascending traverse northward and crossed over the rib just south of the Fremont Glacier at 7600 feet or so. There was actually a cairn a little higher up that I could only see once I was down and near the glacier, that depicted a route that traversed a ledge to reach the talus/snow slopes on the north side of the rib. Otherwise most of the north side are dirty cliffs. I managed to find a steep gully that cut through the cliffs down about 7350 feet and was able to get through without incident. It's hard to locate when coming from Park Creek Pass because I couldn't see what was below the north side of the rib, but a conscious person should be able to find one of the two ways down. Beyond this obstacle, I continued my ascending traverse across more snow (luckily most of these talus slopes were still mostly snow covered) until I hit the edge of the Fremont Glacier at 8000 feet where it's pretty much flat. Since it was still early I had to throw on my microspikes, and walked quickly north across the glacier. I met up with the multiple tracks coming from Thunder Creek, which led me directly to the proper spot to crest the south ridge of Logan (aka the Hogsback). The snow was in perfect condition and I made it to the start of the Class 4 scramble shortly before 8. I thought this was really only Class 3 up the ~100 feet or so to the ridge crest.

View of the northward traverse from my bivy
View of the northward traverse from my bivy
Larch trees from my bivy
Larch trees from my bivy
Sun setting
Sun setting
Sunrise
Sunrise
Sunrise on the edge of Buckner
Sunrise on the edge of Buckner
Forbidden
Forbidden
Traverse these snowfields
Traverse these snowfields
Arriving at the Fremont
Arriving at the Fremont
Walking the flat section of Fremont Glacier
Walking the flat section of Fremont Glacier
Summit of Logan finally in view
Summit of Logan finally in view

Then cairns marked the route, as it crossed through a small notch and onto the east side, where I immediately felt like I was in an oven. I was glad to be able to do most of the ascend on the shade west side. The route then continued on ledges on the east side up to the false summit, with the true summit a short distance to the north. I dropped my pack and made the easy 30 foot scramble down to the notch between the two and ascended blocky ledges to the highest point, on what I thought was Class 3 terrain. There was no summit register (NPS climbing rangers purposely remove them  rant.gif ) but the views were truly remarkable. Goode and Buckner dominated the skyline but Booker, Forbidden and the entire Inspiration Traverse were also prominent, as was Jack, Hozomeen and the volcanoes. The air was so clear actually that I could make out great detail on Rainier!

Goode from summit
Goode from summit
True summit from false summit
True summit from false summit
Scrambling terrain on east side of south ridge
Scrambling terrain on east side of south ridge
View east
View east
View north taken on descent
View north taken on descent

I returned back to my pack at the false summit and made quick work traversing back to camp, utilizing the now perfectly softened snow to actually run back, only being forced to traverse loose talus once where I had to re-cross the rib. By 10 I was back at my bivy and dried out my shoes while eating a snack. The remaining hike back to High Bridge was long and hot, but not terrible. I got back to High Bridge just after 4 to chat with a few PCT hikers and a family out on their first camping trip. Bunch of nice people up there.

Thunder Creek
Thunder Creek
Booker again
Booker again

I caught the 6:15 last shuttle back to Stehekin and ate at the lodge restaurant, while chatting with more PCT hikers. I collected my gear cache that I left in the general store (gear I would need for Tupshin + Devore), and luckily was able to hitchhike a ride 4 miles out to the harlequin bridge where I walked maybe 15 minutes to the Company Creek Trailhead to bivy for the night. It was still so hot at 9:30pm when I set up my bivy just off the road I couldn't even get in my sleeping bag until an hour after dark. I was very lucky to be able to catch that ride, because I don't think I would have been able to walk 4 more flat road miles and if I had to wait until 8:30am the next morning to catch the first shuttle bus, the heat would have already been too unbearable to make the 7000 foot ascent up Devore. See the map below for the track I went. Note I crossed the rib at about 7,450 feet, not 7600 where the map shows, however there is also another way to cross at 7600 feet as I described in the report above.


See my next TR for a detailed account of how I climbed both Devore and Tupshin in a day (well mostly haha).

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The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!!
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RichP
here and there



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 4878 | TRs

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here and there
PostSun Jul 15, 2018 4:50 pm 
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You make it sound so easy that this is one I might actually try someday.
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rstoddard24
BBQWingz



Joined: 30 Dec 2016
Posts: 47 | TRs

rstoddard24
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BBQWingz
PostSun Jul 15, 2018 7:24 pm 
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nice! we summited Logan yesterday (7/14), Fremont glacier via Thunder Creek TH. The climbers trail crosses the rib much lower (~6600'), your way is more direct but climbers trail is all easy traversing. We also found the scrambling to be class 2 and 3, with perhaps 1 or 2 class 4 moves just below the summit. We saw 2 parties leaving (who summited) when we were walking in, then 1 party climbing the Banded glacier while we were on the summit - surprised to see so many folks out there going for Logan
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors



Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 1911 | TRs
Location: My van
Matt Lemke
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High on the Outdoors
PostSun Jul 15, 2018 7:28 pm 
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rstoddard24 wrote:
nice! we summited Logan yesterday (7/14), Fremont glacier via Thunder Creek TH. The climbers trail crosses the rib much lower (~6600'), your way is more direct but climbers trail is all easy traversing. We also found the scrambling to be class 2 and 3, with perhaps 1 or 2 class 4 moves just below the summit. We saw 2 parties leaving (who summited) when we were walking in, then 1 party climbing the Banded glacier while we were on the summit - surprised to see so many folks out there going for Logan

Woah I didn't even know there was a trail all the way around that rib from park creek pass. I just saw brush down in that mid 6000s elevation range and thought "no I'll just go higher"

Good to know.

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Mesahchie Mark
Really Useful Engine



Joined: 10 May 2005
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Location: Island of Sodor
Mesahchie Mark
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Really Useful Engine
PostMon Jul 16, 2018 10:53 am 
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Way to get things done, Matt!  up.gif

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Mesahchie Mark
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Logan solo via Stehekin - 7/12/18 Bulger #93
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