Forum Index > Trip Reports > Old Desolate / Sluiskin 9/1-2/2018
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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostMon Sep 03, 2018 10:40 pm 
Got my fill of meadows! Went out with Don B. Getting permits for the place in Mt. Rainier Park--interesting--talk to me around a campfire and I will tell you the story. Writing it does not do justice. We walked the miles to almost to the pass before Mystic Lake...up towards Moraine Park where we were startled to see 2 people in the cross country area....that never happens! Anyway up we went to Old Desolate in high clouds somewhat obscuring Mt. Rainier. The final minor class 3 moves to the summit a rock moved, I went down with the rock and got a pretty gash in the thigh. Duct tape fixes a lot! Even holes in the international space station! We made it to the top and I took a quick cat nap. Then walked the next mile or so to camp in Vernal Park coming across awesome meadows, elk, marmots, and a lonely goat. The headwater springs of Vernal Park is what surprised me. Quiet. Serene. Peace. I enjoyed it. Then had to play some AC/DC and Offspring to put me to sleep. We woke the next morning and took the scralus slope up to col between the Sluiskin Peaks. We went up The Chief first. Stay on the north ridgeline. Don lead the crux. One move of class 4. Can protect it using a double sling above the move. Nice views while a small fire was active just below and out of the park to the north. We used the 60meter rope for the rappel, and you need a double sling to place the rappel sling. We then continued up to the Squaw which was minor class 3 in one section. Peace! Going down in the cross country zone, guess what? We saw another person doing the Sluiskins and Old Desolate...basically the opposite of what we are doing! We traversed at 5600 feet and then we unfortunately hit the blueberry bushes with inevitably slowed our progress. Damned the sweetness! We took the sidetrip to Natural Arch and took the pictures of course of someone scaling the top. We then went up the peak north of Windy Gap. Full 360 view. Nice meadows at top. Flat up there. Down we went taking in the sun. The lakes. The meadows. Meadows. Me. Contentment. Back down the trail...and upon reaching the bikes at Ipsut, there was the lone ascensionist who was basically doing our reverse trip. Now completeness.
sluiskin
sluiskin

Art is an adventure.
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iron
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iron
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PostMon Sep 03, 2018 10:51 pm 
no gash picture? this thread is worthless.

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Stefan-K
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PostTue Sep 04, 2018 12:08 am 
Like the other Don says...it's not a real adventure unless there's blood.. Pretty pictures.

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John Morrow
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PostTue Sep 04, 2018 7:18 am 
Quick and dirty prose that gives me exactly what I would want to know. Only one question, Stefan, would you either/both had soloed the class 4 on Chief if you did not have a rope? I don't want to carry one and only own a 30M right now anyway. I know that a very seasoned climber had fallen there attempting it solo. Thanks, John

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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Malachai Constant
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PostTue Sep 04, 2018 7:35 am 
When we did Old Desolate it seemed a rope would cause mor problems than going free with all the choss.

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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neek
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PostTue Sep 04, 2018 8:36 am 
John: fwiw, we soloed Chief a few years ago (https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8012420), and I was with someone who possesses much more common sense than I do.

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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostTue Sep 04, 2018 8:39 am 
I would have soloed the 4th class move with a 60meter rope doing a self belay. I don't think you can do a rappel with a 30 meter rope on that route--that because there are no anchors close to the 4th class move--the anchor is much higher up from the move requiring a 60meter rope. Then again, I did not look on the north side of the mountain, where you might have been able to rappel from tree to tree to easier ground.

Art is an adventure.
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cascadetraverser
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PostTue Sep 04, 2018 9:42 am 
Bring on the blood and guts! Seriously though, those pictures are really really nice. Makes me consider to reconsider my Mt. Rainier NP aversion!

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raising3hikers
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PostTue Sep 04, 2018 6:40 pm 
looks like a great way to spend a couple of days. nice pics of the north side of rainier up.gif

Eric Eames
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