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Ski
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PostThu Sep 13, 2018 12:17 am 
60th Anniversary - Episode 2 - 09/04 - 09/06 USGS 12040500 09/04/18 @ 05:30 PDT 335 CFS Central Park 09/04/18 @ 07:42 PDT 53° F Amanda Park 09/04/18 @ 08:57 PDT 59° F Only two vehicles at trailhead on arrival. Weather clear and sunny with no smoke, no haze this time. Temperatures in the low 70's. Ford at Sams easy peasy - not even knee deep.
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.0 090418 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.0 090418 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.0 090418 02
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.0 090418 02
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.5 090418 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.5 090418 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.5 090418 02
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 3.5 090418 02
Met Jake (from Alabama) and Steven (from Olympia) just below the Lower Crossing Junction. I've met and spoken with a lot of people on this trail, but these two were the first I've met who were running up the Queets Trail. They said they were going to run up as far as they could. I told them how far up Ernie had cleared the trail out. They told me they'd seen one guy solo carrying a big pack walking out about two miles below. Found a food bag hanging from a branch at Spruce Bottom, and thought maybe it was abandoned, as there was no gear anywhere at the campsite. I looked through the vine maples and spotted two people out on the gravel bar and moved on.
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 5.2 090418 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 5.2 090418 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 5.2 090418 02
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 5.2 090418 02
bk queets trail mile 6.0 090418 01
bk queets trail mile 6.0 090418 01
Met up with Jake and Steven again at about 6.4 miles. They said they cleared out all the cobwebs for me all the way up to about Harlow, which is as far as Ernie said he'd cleared out the blowdowns when I'd talked with him on the phone. They said they'd seen nobody else up the trail.
Jake & Steve Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 6.4 090418 01
Jake & Steve Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 6.4 090418 01
Got up to my site and set up the tent. Then ripped out and cleaned up a fire ring that had been built over the weekend (in spite of there being a fire ban in effect) that was no more than ten feet away from the already-built, well-established fire ring there on the gravel bar. Discovered a nest of hornets and got stung a few times, then smashed hell out of the hornet nest with some giant rocks. Still had plenty of time to go dive into the Queets a few times and fix up some fresh pesto and farfalle for dinner before the sun dropped behind the ridge.
Queets River 090418 01
Queets River 090418 01
bk Queets River 090418 01
bk Queets River 090418 01
After eating dinner, just before twilight I saw two guys fording the river just upstream, so I walked up and introduced myself to Gino (from Shelton) and Ken (from Port Angeles), who were the two I'd seen earlier down on the gravel bar in front of Spruce Bottom. They were up for a couple days to take in the sights, and had just completed a little brush-bashing adventure. I gave them directions to find the trail and they headed back down to their camp below just before sunset. It was just shy of 60° F at 8:10 pm and clear and calm. A few stars were out by 8:30 - 9:00, along with a few bats. I called it a day and went to bed. Wednesday I got up pretty early and made some breakfast and watched the river go by, then took a short nap.
Queets River 090518 01
Queets River 090518 01
Queets River 090518 02
Queets River 090518 02
Queets River 090518 03
Queets River 090518 03
A little after noon I put on my shoes and walked down to Smith Place. There is nothing left of "structure" at this point. The only remains are some rotting lumber, a couple big tangles of clear polyethylene sheeting, lengths of one-inch galvanized water pipe, the hot water tank, what appears to be part of the chimney, and buried somewhere in the tangle of blackberry vines and rotting lumber is an old white enameled wood stove. The glider that sat on the front porch 80 years ago is slowly being swallowed up by the jungle. Because the structure isn't really even visible until you're right up on top of it, it will be difficult to find for those who haven't been there before. The two symmetrical big-leaf maples standing out in front of where the original structure stood are a good landmark.
Smith Place Queets Valley clearing from SW corner 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley clearing from SW corner 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley two big-leaf maples in front of structure 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley two big-leaf maples in front of structure 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NW corner 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NW corner 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NW corner 090518 04
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NW corner 090518 04
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure SW corner 090518 02
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure SW corner 090518 02
Smith Place Queets Valley glider behind remains of structure 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley glider behind remains of structure 090518 01
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NE corner 090518 03
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NE corner 090518 03
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NW corner 090518 06
Smith Place Queets Valley remains of structure NW corner 090518 06
A hundred yards due north of the remains of the structure is where the beginning of the Upper Crossing Way Trail can be found. As has been the case for several years, the western half of the trail is fairly easy to find by looking for the orange markers nailed to the trees and looking for cut logs. Beyond the halfway point the trail gets hopelessly lost in blowdowns. Oddly I was able to pick up the last couple hundred feet of it just before it breaks out onto Tshletshy Creek, which was only a pitiful little trickle.
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 01
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 01
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 02
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 02
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 03
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 03
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 04
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 04
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 05
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 05
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 06
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 06
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 07
Upper Crossing Way Trail Queets Valley 090518 07
Tshletshy Creek Queets Valley 090518 01
Tshletshy Creek Queets Valley 090518 01
Tshletshy Creek Queets Valley 090518 02
Tshletshy Creek Queets Valley 090518 02
As I was walking back to camp, I spotted someone out on the gravel bar with a fishing rod. I walked down and when I got to within 20 feet of him he looked up and asked "Are you Ski?" Brendan (from Bainbridge Island) told me we'd met up there a couple times before, and asked how to get back to the trail. I walked with him through the trees until we got to the trail where he pulled out his cell phone and grabbed a photo of both of us.
Brendan C and bk Queets 090518 (photo courtesy B. Curran)
Brendan C and bk Queets 090518 (photo courtesy B. Curran)
Wandered back to camp and had a little snack before diving into the Queets a few more times. About 7:00 I had tortellini and salmon with sun-dried tomatoes for dinner. Sunset at Kalaloch was at 7:45 PM, and there was just a tinge of pink on the western sky.
Queets River 090518 04
Queets River 090518 04
Queets River 090518 05
Queets River 090518 05
Thursday I wanted to get an early start before the weather changed, so I packed up and had a little snack before heading down.
Queets River 090618 01
Queets River 090618 01
As it had been for the previous two days, it was sunny and warm all the way down, although a bit noisy with a helicopter ferrying fisheries people up and down the valley. I spotted four guys camped on the south bank just across from Spruce Bottom, and assumed they must have been the party that Gino and Ken told me were making all the noise the night before. I figured the rain that was forecast and on the way would be a just reward for their reveling.
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 6.0 090618 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 6.0 090618 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 4.0 090618 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 4.0 090618 01
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 4.0 090618 02
Queets River Trail (approx.) mile 4.0 090618 02
I stopped at Coal Creek to rest for a couple minutes, and heard voices coming nearer. When a face came out of the trees I said hello, and introduced myself. The gentleman said he was looking for a Big Fir tree, and I told him he'd just passed it. I led him back down the trail a few hundred feet and gave him directions on how to get up to the Big Fir by climbing up on the huge downed spruce, and then following it to its end, where the trail could be found. He introduced himself as Fred Weinmann, and he and his wife Ann were from Port Townsend, where they were both on the board of the local chapter of the Native Plant Society. We had an interesting conversation about Cirsium Arvense, Rubus Discolor, R. Laciniatus, and a few other things that were not related at all to non-indigenous invasive plant species. Meeting Fred and talking with him for just a brief time was truly a pleasure.
Fred and Ann Weinmann Queets Big Fir 090618 (photo courtesy Fred Weinmann)
Fred and Ann Weinmann Queets Big Fir 090618 (photo courtesy Fred Weinmann)
Unlike the last trip, when I got down to Andrews Field the top of Kloochman Rock was actually visible, and not obscured by smoke haze.
Andrews Field Queets Valley 090618 01
Andrews Field Queets Valley 090618 01
Andrews Field Queets Valley 090618 02
Andrews Field Queets Valley 090618 02
About a half a mile up from the trailhead, I met Becky and Katie, who were dayhiking and were looking for a Big Fir tree. I gave them instructions on how to find the tree and they went on their way. Less than 500 feet from the trailhead I met two gentlemen from Germany, who had come all the way out to take a look at our trees. I drove up to Queets and asked about a fish, but they said the nets wouldn't go into the river for another week - there just wasn't enough water in the ditch.
Then I cruised up to Kalaloch, stopped in to say hello to Birdie, went across the street for a gigantic latte, and then back down to Ashenbrenner for the obligatory post-hike feast as the rain began to fall along the coast.
On the way back down Hwy 101, I ran into Becky and Katie at the end of the #21 Road. They said they'd found the big spruce, but Becky had reservations about climbing up on top of it so they didn't get to the Big Fir. Friday morning I contacted Larry up in PA and he assured me he would put "Big Fir Trail" on his "to do" list for the 2019 season. There is a good possibility the season may be over: USGS 12040500 09/04/18 @ 05:30 PDT 335 CFS USGS 12040500 09/09/18 @ 16:30 PDT 576 CFS USGS 12040500 09/09/18 @ 21:30 PDT 1120 CFS USGS 12040500 09/09/18 @ 22:30 PDT 1640 CFS USGS 12040500 09/09/18 @ 23:30 PDT 1840 CFS USGS 12040500 09/10/10 @ 09:30 PDT 2350 CFS USGS 12040500 09/12/18 @ 09:30 PDT 1980 CFS
USGS 12040500 091218 0930 PDT 1980 CFS
USGS 12040500 091218 0930 PDT 1980 CFS
Stay tuned. wink.gif

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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Sculpin
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PostThu Sep 13, 2018 7:11 am 
I'm beginning to see a trend in your hiking choices. You like Italian food!
Ski wrote:
He introduced himself as Fred Weinmann, and he and his wife Ann were from Port Townsend, where they were both on the board of the local chapter of the Native Plant Society.
The Weinmanns are luminaries in the native plant world and tour leaders on WNPS outings. Asking for autographs would be entirely appropriate!

Between every two pines is a doorway to the new world. - John Muir
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Brushbuffalo
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Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between
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PostThu Sep 13, 2018 7:12 am 
Ski: Interesting, personalized account. I thoroughly enjoyed reading. I really need to up my back-country culinary skills, and you are my inspiration.

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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JonnyQuest
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PostThu Sep 13, 2018 9:15 am 
Really enjoy these reports, Ski.

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Ski
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PostThu Sep 13, 2018 10:41 am 
sculpin wrote:
The Weinmanns are luminaries in the native plant world and tour leaders on WNPS outings. Asking for autographs would be entirely appropriate!
In the process of searching for contact information for Fred, I stumbled across a "podcast" that he'd done with a local radio station. He is a gold mine of information on native flora. Meeting him up there was definitely a fortuitous occasion.
Brushbuffalo wrote:
I really need to up my back-country culinary skills, and you are my inspiration.
It's really not that difficult - it's just a lot heavier. I've pared the weight down somewhat with a dehydrator. There are several recipes posted here that you might want to take a look at. Life's too short to eat freeze-dried kibbles-and-bits-in-a-bag in the backcountry. wink.gif

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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Kim Brown
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PostThu Sep 13, 2018 8:07 pm 
This has everything a trip repoey should have, and more! I enjoyed reading about the people you meet. And the FFOOD! I hope there's a Part 3!

"..living on the east side of the Sierra world be ideal - except for harsher winters and the chance of apocalyptic fires burning the whole area." Bosterson, NWHiker's marketing expert
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Ski
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PostThu Sep 13, 2018 8:31 pm 
I'm hoping for a good weather window and low water. It might happen. It might not. Kim, you would have loved meeting Fred! Look him up and listen to that "podcast".

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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Ski
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PostTue Oct 02, 2018 8:04 pm 
Gary, in an email of 10/02/18 wrote:
From: Gary Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 3:39 PM To: Ski Subject: Re: Sams Thanks for the update and link Brian! Looks like a fabulous jaunt up Sams River. The fall colors are gorgeous. Did Ernie happen to mention whether he punched the trail above Bob creek to Paradise primarily out on the gravel bars along the river? Or whether he tried to reconnect to the "old" trail above Bob at some point. I'm very curious, since even before the fire, the rock-fall that occurred just as the trail started the climb over the low ridge between Bob and Paradise seemed to be nearly impassable, but I always wondered if maybe there would be a way to reconnect at some point after skirting around the point of the ridge out on the river. Either way, many thank you's to Ernie for his efforts. I can't express enough, how nice it was to hike the lower Queets this year without having to climb over or around countless blow downs etc. Take care, Gary
Ski, in an email of 10/02/18 wrote:
From: Ski Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 8:00 PM To: Gary Subject: Re: Sams Hi Gary! I just got off the phone with Ernie a few minutes ago. He went up the 10th and came out the 21st – had to cut his trip short a day because of the weather. Said it rained 10 days out of the 12 they were up there. (Per an email from Larry they spent three days hunkered under some tarps while the rain pummeled them.) Said the river came up four feet one afternoon while they were up there. The section you’re asking about no longer exists. The rockfall at the bottom end as you approach it blocked the beginning of that ramp that traversed up the ridge, and the blowdown from the fire pretty much obliterated the rest. He said you have to cut down to the bench next to the river there now. He said between Harlow and Paradise they cut out 121 trees, and burned 9 gallons of gasoline. Got most of it brushed out as well. He walked up to Pelton, but wasn’t able to work the trail any farther than Paradise. He’s determined to get back up there next season and get the rest of it cut out. What he took out in the last couple weeks was three years of blowdown, so maybe he’ll be able to get it cleared out all the way up. When I was up there a few weeks ago it was wide open at least to Harlow. Remains to be seen what the winter storms will knock down this season. Still crossing my fingers waiting for another weather window, but it’s still up at 2190 CFS right now (down from about 4100 CFS last night) so that’s a sketchy proposition at best. Hope all is well in Alaskaland. BK

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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