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HitTheTrail
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 6:32 am 
Seattle man injured while rappelling down Mount Stuart by Tony Buhr Sept. 22, 2018, 1:05 p.m. Public safety, Mount Stuart, search and rescue LEAVENWORTH – A Seattle man suffered injuries Thursday when he fell 30 yards while climbing Mount Stuart. Jonathan J. Watari, 21, was rappelling down Mount Stuart, about 1.5 miles from Lake Ingalls, when his equipment failed causing him to fall 30 yards, according to a Chelan County Sheriff’s Office news release. Watari suffered a possible broken leg, Chelan County Sgt. Jerry Moore said. Search and rescue officials were unable to get to Watari until Friday morning, Moore said. A U.S. Navy helicopter from Whidbey Island assisted in the rescue and it took two attempts to get rescuers on the ground to hoist Watari into the helicopter. Watari was taken to Central Washington Hospital, Moore said. Hospital officials were unable to provide a patient status by deadline. About five climbers have been rescued from Mount Stuart so far this year and one Seattle man died after losing his footing while descending and sliding hundreds of feet down the mountain, according to Wenatchee World records. Reach Tony Buhr at 509-664-7123 or buhr@wenatcheeworld.com.

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Bernardo
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 6:58 am 
Thanks for reporting this and thankfully the person involved was not killed. Based on the report, this may not have been equipment failure but instead failure to use equipment correctly. I don't know if a failed anchor is considered human error or something else but that also wouldn't be equipment failure. Maybe more details will emerge and then we will know. Equipment failures are less common than human errors and therefore, in some ways, more noteworthy.

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Bluebird
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 8:43 am 
Can't help but wonder why he was rapping on Stuart since that's not typical for the west ridge, assuming that was the route climber was on... Off route? Something went wrong?

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DIYSteve
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 9:47 am 
Equipment failure? Huh? Runners, rap rings, rap devices, harnesses and climbing ropes are all built with huge safety factors, especially when loads are static or near static (e.g., rappelling). Maybe he rapped off an old UV-rotted runner? If so, that's user error IMO.
Bluebird wrote:
Can't help but wonder why he was rapping on Stuart since that's not typical for the west ridge, assuming that was the route climber was on... Off route? Something went wrong?
Yup. We have discussed that on 2 other threads. If you stay on route and descend the standard (SE) route, there is no need to rap anywhere.

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Bernardo
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 12:05 pm 
I think most folks here recognize that errors are made by even the most experienced people. We sadly know this to be the case from far too many fatal accidents. If equipment fails, it's super useful to know so it can be removed from circulation, redesigned, etc. This report provides no evidence of equipment failure. Rapelling gear is so well designed, it rarely fails. Yet, rapelling is very dangerous. The vast majority of rapelling injuries are caused by human error. If rapelling gear failed on Mt Stuart, that's news. A claim of such an unlikely event should be backed up.

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Randito
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 12:18 pm 
I take "media reports" with a grain of salt. I've had a couple of experiences that were then reported in the media and the gulf between the media reports and how I remember things was amazing. Hopefully the injuried climber will make a full recovery.

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Bedivere
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 12:19 pm 
DIYSteve wrote:
Equipment failure? Huh? Runners, rap rings, rap devices, harnesses and climbing ropes are all built with huge safety factors, especially when loads are static or near static (e.g., rapp...
Something I noticed recently is that there is an awful lot of suspect, "off brand" climbing equipment available through Amazon. I recently bought some carabiners that supposedly have a 12kn rating. Of course they're a brand no one has ever heard of and when they arrived there are no markings on them at all so who knows if they've actually been tested or meet any particular standards. As I will never use them for climbing, I don't care, but this kind of thing is something to think about in a discussion of possible gear failure.

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DIYSteve
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 12:43 pm 
Bernardo wrote:
If rappeling gear failed on Mt Stuart, that's news. A claim of such an unlikely event should be backed up.
ditto.gif

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Hutch
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 6:07 pm 
RandyHiker wrote:
I take "media reports" with a grain of salt. I've had a couple of experiences that were then reported in the media and the gulf between the media reports and how I remember things was amazing. Hopefully the injuried climber will make a full recovery.
Most of these kinds of articles are based on information straight from law enforcement press releases, so maybe direct your ire there. In an ideal world we'd get lengthy reports on every climbing accident in the state but that's not feasible given that there's one of these every other day and there's only a handful of local reporters left.

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lovetowonder
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 6:11 pm 
Interesting. Thanks for posting this. I was jogging out of the enchantments Friday afternoon/evening along the Snow Creek trail and we saw a heli do a few trips parallel to the trail & creek. Of course, we wondered what it was up to and hoped it was a rescue and not a recovery. Crazy the number of rescues off of Stuart (and everywhere!) this year. I hope this isn't a new PNW summer normal.

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Randito
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 7:05 pm 
Hutch wrote:
Most of these kinds of articles are based on information straight from law enforcement press releases, so maybe direct your ire there.
What ire? I think it is just how things work. Haven't you ever done the "telephone" exercise where you have a group of people in a circle and a sentence is whispered from ear to ear around the circle and final message by the time it has gotten all the way around through a dozen people has very little relation to the original. That's why I suggest not getting too worked about media reports that seem bizarre. They most likely don't accurately represent the actual events.

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AlpineRose
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 8:48 pm 
I would not expect law enforcement or reporters referring to "equipment failure" to necessarily mean it in the same technical sense a climber would. A true failure of equipment in good condition obtained from a reputable company is very rare and would indeed be a serious thing.

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thunderhead
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PostSun Sep 23, 2018 9:36 pm 
Quote:
I don't know if a failed anchor is considered human error or something else
That depends on the nature of the anchor and its failure but i would say a safe bet is that almost all are user error. At least 99%. A failed single placement might be less that 99%, especially rotten rock and ice screws, but only the desperate or dumb rap off a single piece of gear.

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Schenk
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PostMon Sep 24, 2018 9:07 am 
Bluebird wrote:
Can't help but wonder why he was rapping on Stuart since that's not typical for the west ridge, assuming that was the route climber was on... Off route? Something went wrong?
They could have been bailing off Gorillas in the Mist, or working a route nearby.

Nature exists with a stark indifference to humans' situation.
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Sammy
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PostMon Sep 24, 2018 9:59 am 
Schenk wrote:
Bluebird wrote:
Can't help but wonder why he was rapping on Stuart since that's not typical for the west ridge, assuming that was the route climber was on... Off route? Something went wrong?
They could have been bailing off Gorillas in the Mist, or working a route nearby.
Per his Instagram post, attempted West Ridge, unable to find safe route 300' from the summit so rappelled/downclimbed from there.

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