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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
Joined: 07 Sep 2018
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Location: Seattle |
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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
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 Tue Oct 02, 2018 4:21 am |
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"There are yahoos out there. It’s why we can’t have nice things." - Tom Mahood
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rbuzby
Attention Surplus
Joined: 24 Feb 2009
Posts: 1011 | TRs | Pics
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rbuzby
Attention Surplus
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Tue Oct 02, 2018 6:45 am |
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I saw a Chair peak trip report on WTA recently. Probably not a good idea for hikers to be going up there thinking it's just a steep hike.
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Schenk
Off Leash Man
Joined: 16 Apr 2012
Posts: 2372 | TRs | Pics
Location: Traveling, with the bear, to the other side of the Mountain |
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Schenk
Off Leash Man
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Tue Oct 02, 2018 7:37 am |
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RIP. and prayers for the Family.
Nature exists with a stark indifference to humans' situation.
Nature exists with a stark indifference to humans' situation.
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Bernardo
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Joined: 08 Feb 2010
Posts: 2174 | TRs | Pics
Location: out and about in the world |
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Bernardo
Member
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Tue Oct 02, 2018 9:39 am |
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Yes, RIP. Sad to hear about any loss like this.
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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
Joined: 07 Sep 2018
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Location: Seattle |
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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
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Tue Oct 02, 2018 2:16 pm |
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I'm totally unfamiliar with that area, except for one climbing lesson on The Tooth many years ago. The WTA description says "technical gear required" but some of the TRs sound like there's a sketchy scramble route.
"There are yahoos out there. It’s why we can’t have nice things." - Tom Mahood
"There are yahoos out there. It’s why we can’t have nice things." - Tom Mahood
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Malachai Constant
Member
Joined: 13 Jan 2002
Posts: 16093 | TRs | Pics
Location: Back Again Like A Bad Penny |
There is a class 3 scramble route from the south arm which I have been up as part of a traverse from Denny. It is seldom done as it is exposed and chossy. It is NOT a “hike”. Interestingly there was a benchmark on the arm calling it Bryant Peak. I do not know where this accident occurred and press reports do not tell much as usual.
"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
Joined: 06 Mar 2007
Posts: 12655 | TRs | Pics
Location: here now |
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
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Tue Oct 02, 2018 3:00 pm |
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Very sad. RIP
| Anne Elk wrote: | | I'm totally unfamiliar with that area, except for one climbing lesson on The Tooth many years ago. The WTA description says "technical gear required" but some of the TRs sound like there's a sketchy scramble route. |
There is no walk up route. The S shoulder is class 3 IF one stays on route. It's exposed in spots, loose in spots and less than enjoyable. I've heard that, at one time, the S shoulder route was more popular. In the past 20+, most summer parties climb via the NE Buttress route (which is actually oriented closer to E than NE) or up the chimney to the S of the summit block (Beckey's SE Route), both of which are rated class 4 and usually done with a rope. (NE Buttress has one spot of low/mid 5th.)
The chimneys of the SE route is an accident prone area. Years ago, a doctor from Seattle fell to his death while rappelling when his anchor, a wobbly flake, ripped off the mountain. We had been there a couple weeks prior, worked over to the flake and stripped off runners to discourage any future parties from using the flake as a rap anchor. Had social media been around back then, I would have posted a warning and encouraged people to avoid the wobbly flake and instead do a 2-rope rap off a secure anchor above and climber's right of the wobbly flake.
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
Joined: 13 Feb 2007
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Location: Stuck in the middle |
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
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Tue Oct 02, 2018 8:09 pm |
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That south route isn't a scramble. We put up a hand line at one point to feel secure traversing a steep cliff.
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christensent
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Joined: 05 Nov 2011
Posts: 658 | TRs | Pics
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| puzzlr wrote: | | That south route isn't a scramble. We put up a hand line at one point to feel secure traversing a steep cliff. |
Yes I did that route once and the correct route (easiest way) involves a truly frightening little traverse maybe 50 feet long. In the route description we had, it described it as "loose 3rd class with 5th class exposure" which although this statement probably has no technical meaning it is a pretty good way of putting it.
Although that's the only really scary part of the route, the remainder is not very scary mentally but very exposed and a fall almost anywhere after you pass the ridge to the north side of the mountain would likely be fatal.
Learning mountaineering: 10% technical knowledge, 90% learning how to eat
Learning mountaineering: 10% technical knowledge, 90% learning how to eat
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Randito
Snarky Member
Joined: 27 Jul 2008
Posts: 9513 | TRs | Pics
Location: Bellevue at the moment. |
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Randito
Snarky Member
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Tue Oct 02, 2018 10:15 pm |
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FWIW: I don't think the media report has enough information to know that the deceased was attempting (or descending) to summit Chair Peak. It says that he was found at the bottom of a 100 foot cliff. There are many such cliffs in the area around Chair Peak and along Snow Lake divide. The exposed areas along any summit route involves cliffs considerably higher than 100 feet.
A sad death for sure -- I noticed that his widow as been spared long uncertainty as he used a GPS gadget that tracked his movements in a manner available to SAR.
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iron
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Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics
Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
Member
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Thu Oct 04, 2018 12:27 pm |
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| christensent wrote: | | Yes I did that route once and the correct route (easiest way) involves a truly frightening little traverse maybe 50 feet long. In the route description we had, it described it as "loose 3rd class with 5th class exposure" which although this statement probably has no technical meaning it is a pretty good way of putting it.
Although that's the only really scary part of the route, the remainder is not very scary mentally but very exposed and a fall almost anywhere after you pass the ridge to the north side of the mountain would likely be fatal. |
https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7970611
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
Joined: 06 Mar 2007
Posts: 12655 | TRs | Pics
Location: here now |
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
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Thu Oct 04, 2018 1:37 pm |
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B00's TR describes it as I recall it. His reference to "3rd class with 5th class exposure" does not mention "loose." As I recall it, it's pretty solid, although could be slippery when wet.
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christensent
Member
Joined: 05 Nov 2011
Posts: 658 | TRs | Pics
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| DIYSteve wrote: | | B00's TR describes it as I recall it. His reference to "3rd class with 5th class exposure" does not mention "loose." As I recall it, it's pretty solid, although could be slippery when wet. |
You're right, classic case of the story changing a tiny bit every time it's passed down! My mistake.
Learning mountaineering: 10% technical knowledge, 90% learning how to eat
Learning mountaineering: 10% technical knowledge, 90% learning how to eat
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