Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Index Hourglass Gully March 2-3, 2019
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Matt Lemke
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Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 2052 | TRs | Pics
Location: Grand Junction
Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
PostSat Mar 30, 2019 8:05 am 
raybies wrote:
Great shots. I've been considering a summit of Index main peak this month, is this doable without climbing gear this time of year? Reading through Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide it appears so but would love to hear from someone who's done it.
I would say a rope would be good to have for rappelling through trees on that lower section of ridge just above the saddle where it's very steep (near vertical tree climbing). Other than that if you are comfortable soloing on 50/55 degree snow/neve (in the upper gully) you can just stash the rope just above that lower section of ridge and simply use it to rappel on the way down. I was an idiot and carried the rope the whole way up to the summit haha. We only used it to make one rappel back to our tent on the ridge.

The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!! SummitPost Profile See my website at: http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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Mike Collins
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Mike Collins
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PostSat Mar 30, 2019 8:44 am 
I have climbed Index Main twice and only used rope exactly where Matt says. On the upclimb we used branches for vegetation belays.

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Error
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Joined: 06 Dec 2020
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Error
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PostSun Dec 06, 2020 5:11 pm 
Curious.. anybody know of any ski history on this route? Having climbed with good snow coverage, what do you think about potential for skiing most of this route, aside from the steep tree climbing lower down? Could one side step/slip down the narrowest gulley section?

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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors



Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 2052 | TRs | Pics
Location: Grand Junction
Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
PostMon Dec 07, 2020 9:26 pm 
If you're a very skilled skier comfortable on 50 degree terrain, and are knowledgable about avalanche and snow conditions with good judgement on managing risk I see no reason why this route can't be skied.

The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!! SummitPost Profile See my website at: http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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Bronco
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PostTue Dec 08, 2020 11:01 am 
I seem to recall poster ale_capone having boarded this route a few years ago. You might PM them.

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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Index Hourglass Gully March 2-3, 2019
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