Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Index Hourglass Gully March 2-3, 2019
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors



Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 1840 | TRs
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Matt Lemke
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High on the Outdoors
PostSat Mar 30, 2019 8:05 am 
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raybies wrote:
Great shots. I've been considering a summit of Index main peak this month, is this doable without climbing gear this time of year? Reading through Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide  it appears so but would love to hear from someone who's done it.

I would say a rope would be good to have for rappelling through trees on that lower section of ridge just above the saddle where it's very steep (near vertical tree climbing). Other than that if you are comfortable soloing on 50/55 degree snow/neve (in the upper gully) you can just stash the rope just above that lower section of ridge and simply use it to rappel on the way down. I was an idiot and carried the rope the whole way up to the summit haha. We only used it to make one rappel back to our tent on the ridge.

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Mike Collins
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PostSat Mar 30, 2019 8:44 am 
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I have climbed Index Main twice and only used rope exactly where Matt says. On the upclimb we used branches for vegetation belays.
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Index Hourglass Gully March 2-3, 2019
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