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raising3hikers
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Location: Edmonds, Wa
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 1:27 pm 
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Davis Pk 7051'

Saturday morning, Kyle, Jake, Dave and I met at the Gorge overlook parking lot on highway 20 for a trip up to Davis Pk.  There were several ideas tossed around during the week and this is the one that we went with.

We started hiking up the burn area a little after 7am.  It was steep from the beginning and travel was mostly brush free.  There were several rocky areas that was easily bypassed and a couple interesting gullies to get through.  I think we put snowshoes on around 2000' as the snow finally was deep enough to make them useful.  Jake did a nice job breaking trail for much of the way up to Pt 5872.  The sun was out and many fine views of the surrounding mountains had opened up at the ridge.

From Pt 5872, we had to get down to a saddle 100'+ below.  We spent much time trying to find a safe way around the Pt but ended up rappelling from a small tree to get down.  We also made the choice to leave the rope in place to use as a hand line to get back up.  That meant that we had just 1 rope left to use on the crux area on the South ridge of Davis.

North Cascade Pks
North Cascade Pks
the big rock and snow step to get the Davis ridge
the big rock and snow step to get the Davis ridge
Jake on rappel
Jake on rappel
Jake at the saddle
Jake at the saddle

As we neared the big step, the sun left and clouds cooled everything down a lot.  My water bottles froze quickly just like my hands did.  We studied and searched for a couple different ways up the steep snowy and rock slopes.  After a couple dead ends, we got everybody up to an area with nothing left but steeper snow with a bad runout.  If the snow wouldn't take good kick steps, we'd have to turn around.  Luckily, with crampons on, we were able to kick good steps high above the cliffs before turning a corner and going straight up even steeper snow to gain the ridge.  The last 5-6' were near vertical.  The decision to bring 2 axes each was the difference in making it to this spot.

Once on the ridge, we put snowshoes on and hiked the ridge to the top doing our best to avoid the massive cornices.  We reached the top around 4pm with great views.  The clouds made for some great scenery as did the sun shedding spotty light in places.

The Pickets
The Pickets
Elephant Butte
Elephant Butte
Dave and Kyle getting ready to leave the summit
Dave and Kyle getting ready to leave the summit
The Colonial group
The Colonial group

Jake and I left the summit early so we could find the best spot to rappel and get an anchor set.  Dave's 70m rope was just enough to get us down off of the steepest snow but we'd still have to down climb exposed snow to get down to the 2nd anchor.  A double rope rappel would have been ideal here.  Anyways, we carefully made it down and reached the easier rap anchor that would lead us back down to the saddle.

downclimbing the steep slopes
downclimbing the steep slopes
Kyle rappelling
Kyle rappelling

We used the handline we left earlier to get us back up to Pt 5872.  The sun was setting and the skies and peaks were beautiful.  By the time everybody was there, the sun had gone down and it was headlamp time with almost 5000' of elevation to lose.  We kept our crampons on during the steep descent.  It was kind of slow once the snow thinned.  We had to be careful about dislodging rocks as we went down.

last light on Jack
last light on Jack
Trapezoid and Big Devil
Trapezoid and Big Devil
Triumph and roper's Roost
Triumph and roper's Roost

We finally reached the parking area and we all decided that it was a tough day but well worth it.  Davis definitely isn't an easy peak, we had to earn it's summit.  Any day in the North Cascades is a good one.  Thanks for the trip guys!

6.25 miles
6300' elevation gain
14.5 hrs

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Eric Eames
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Jake Robinson
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 1:52 pm 
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This was the hardest 6 miles I've ever done. Thanks everyone for a great trip! And thanks Eric for leading the way on the steep snow portion and finding us a good route up to the ridge.

Team climbing up through the burn
Team climbing up through the burn
up, up, up
up, up, up
First views of the day, Snowfield group
First views of the day, Snowfield group
Break time
Break time
Mount Triumph and Roper's Roost
Mount Triumph and Roper's Roost
Kyle and Dave starting up the steep snow section
Kyle and Dave starting up the steep snow section
Finally above the steep section. Moody light on Snowfield group
Finally above the steep section. Moody light on Snowfield group
Final ridge slog to the summit
Final ridge slog to the summit
Ruby illuminated
Ruby illuminated
We gave these huge cornices a lot of room
We gave these huge cornices a lot of room
Summit looking north to Elephant Butte
Summit looking north to Elephant Butte
Pickets
Pickets
Eric reaching the summit
Eric reaching the summit
Kyle about to arrive
Kyle about to arrive
Dave on top
Dave on top
Descending
Descending
Downclimbing
Downclimbing
Golden light on Snowfield group
Golden light on Snowfield group
Looking towards Newhalem and Big Devil as sunset approaches
Looking towards Newhalem and Big Devil as sunset approaches
Eric and Dave downclimbing
Eric and Dave downclimbing
Alpenglow on Jack, Crater, and Ruby
Alpenglow on Jack, Crater, and Ruby
Nice colors
Nice colors
Kyle making the final rappel at sunset
Kyle making the final rappel at sunset
Mount Triumph is on fire, contemplating the long descent ahead
Mount Triumph is on fire, contemplating the long descent ahead
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iron
getting old



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
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getting old
PostSun Mar 10, 2019 2:35 pm 
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great light on the colonial group. glad you finally got this one --- no more debating with me every year.

seeing your time gives me mucho respect for sjolseth. i think he had like an 8 hour trip in february 2010 or thereabouts (acct now deleted). obviously, bigger party = slower than solo.

glad to see the familiar mountains views from there!

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man, you go through life, you try to be nice to people, you struggle to resist the urge to punch 'em in the face, and for what?

--- moe sizlack
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Tom
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 2:47 pm 
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Nice report.  Tough?  Hard?  Had to do a double take in a r3h TR.  Are you guys mortal or just getting old. clown.gif
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KTizzle89
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 3:27 pm 
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Great trip out there fellas!!
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silence
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 5:28 pm 
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You guys rock!  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif

Great storytelling and stunning scenery!

Thanks so much for sharing.It makes me smile!

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PHOTOS: https://www.flickr.com/photos/33792231@N00/sets
FILMMAKING: http://www.crestpictures.com/

Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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Bootpathguy
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 6:06 pm 
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raising3hikers wrote:
last light on Jack
last light on Jack
Trapezoid and Big Devil
Trapezoid and Big Devil

Fantastic!

up.gif

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Experience is what'cha get, when you get what'cha don't want
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Roly Poly
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 6:35 pm 
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Stunning views.  Gorgeous alpenglow photos.
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ozzy
The hard way



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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 6:57 pm 
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Hell yeah thats a pretty sweet bag! Damn i need to get out. Cheers doods! cheers.gif

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Milk is for babies. When you grow up you have to drink beer. -Arnold
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Nancyann
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 7:21 pm 
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Fantastic trip report and spectacular pictures!
“it was headlamp time with almost 5,000’ of elevation to lose”...Pretty impressive, I can’t even imagine!
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zephyr
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PostSun Mar 10, 2019 7:52 pm 
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Nancyann wrote:
Fantastic trip report and spectacular pictures!

“it was headlamp time with almost 5,000’ of elevation to lose”...Pretty impressive, I can’t even imagine!

Exactly.

This is superhero stuff in my book--these winter ascents.  Inspirational!  ~z
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



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PostMon Mar 11, 2019 12:07 am 
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Great to see another big winter mountain climb report! Enjoyed every word and photo.

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Mid Fork Rocksflickr
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Stefan
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PostMon Mar 11, 2019 9:34 am 
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Pretty good show you old folks!

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Art is an adventure.
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awilsondc
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PostMon Mar 11, 2019 10:35 am 
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Great effort you guys!  I love those golden hour and sunset photos.   up.gif  up.gif  up.gif
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iron
getting old



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getting old
PostMon Mar 11, 2019 11:24 am 
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any views of azure lake, or were the cornices too big to get unobstructed views that low?

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man, you go through life, you try to be nice to people, you struggle to resist the urge to punch 'em in the face, and for what?

--- moe sizlack
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