[awilsondc]

My mood leading up to this trip was much like the weather in Washington through most of May... dark, moody, and generally 'meh'. I was also back into my rut of being unable to pick a trip to do. I had several picked out, and plenty of time to think about it, but it came down to the night before the trip and I still hadn't settled on anything. Paralysis by analysis I guess. I had researched the Snowfield group the most so I downloaded maps and beta for that area, still not even sure if I'd head there in the morning but I did. I arrived to a surprisingly somewhat full parking area and hit the trail a few minutes before 7. I ground out the first few miles of trail, not particularly feeling great. There were a few water features along Pyramid Creek that I checked out, but was too lazy to get my tripod and really frame up a good shot. Pyramid Lake was kind of cool. I continued on through the forest, taking note of a downed tree that I thought looked like a fallen soldier. Fitting since it was Memorial Day weekend. I thanked him for his service and carried on. Snow started around the flat bench at 4200 ft and it was here that I stopped to swap out my trail runners for mountaineering boots. I also noted the dark overcast skies. It was supposed to be 25% chance of rain around 11am, and clearing up as the day went on but things weren't looking too promising. From the flat area around 4200, the trail really gets after it! That sucker was straight up through cliffs in parts and the going was slow in my heavy boots and overnight pack. Soon snow was continuous and I was grateful for my late start since I had tracks to follow which made route finding easier. Soon I encountered a party of three on descent. They had reached the 5800 ft ridge and turned around due to weather. Not a good sign, but I carried on anyway.

Pyramid Creek

Pyramid Lake

trail

through the trees

Fattest. Slowest. Frog. Ever.

Fallen soldier. Memorial Day 2019

Upon arriving at the ridge around 5300 ft, it began to rain. 25% chance of rain was now 100%. Only a light drizzle, but I had to regularly wipe rain off my camera which was attached to my shoulder strap and exposed to the elements. Soon I encountered another pair of hikers, also on retreat due to weather. I continued and reached the saddle and the start of the traverse section. The entire Colonial Glacier Basin was encased in clouds. There was a tent set up there, occupants inside taking shelter from the rain. I hiked the short distance up to the high point on the ridge where another pair of climbers were discussing options. They soon departed down the ridge a short distance to set up their tent. I stayed and melted snow while I pondered my options. Again my indecisiveness got the better of me. Continue on through rain and a white out and possibly miss out on views on one of the best areas of the North Cascades, or go home early and spend an extra day with my family. Looking around I could see an occasional sun patch on distant terrain the weather was pretty sucky. After an hour I decided to bail. I put on my pack and headed for the trailhead.

First view of Colonial Peak

Uhhhh, not looking so good up there

Climbers hiking up to the high point on the ridge east of Pyramid Peak

Waiting out the strom

Pyramid Peak

Well, I guess that's it. These are the views I got.

After about 15 minutes back towards my car the sun came out. Having seen the tiny sun patches on the distant terrain, I figured this must be my moment in the sun. Might as well enjoy it. I posted up on the last high point on the ridge that had views to enjoy the sun while it was out. And... since I had packed up a couple beers for camp that I was never going to reach, I might as well have one, right? I spent another hour up on this ridge and gradually had more and more thoughts of just going for it, bad weather and all. Maybe it was the sun, maybe it was the liquid courage, maybe I just wanted to see what the day would bring but eventually I changed my mind and decided to go climb a mountain. I shouldered my pack and headed for the traverse.

Wait... is that blue sky?

Starting the traverse

Looking back from the traverse, campers emerge

The basin was starting to clear by the time I reached the traverse. I got my axe out and started across. There was a single track of steps to follow, and about five minutes in both my foot steps gave way and I began to slip down the mountain. Fortunately I had a bomber self belay with my axe, shaft plunged in all the way to the head which held strong and turned a potential slide into a non issue. It pays to be mindful of your technique. The rest of the traverse was uneventful, conditions were stable with no slide or rock fall activity at all. Traversing under those cliffs and waterfalls was really cool, and reaching Colonial Glacier Basin was a 'wow' moment for sure. That place is incredible! I spent quite a bit of time taking photos of melt water pools, streams, and glacial ice. But, it was time to decide where to go. I still hadn't picked a peak! What would it be, door number one (Colonial), door number two (Neve col and Snowfield), or door number 3 (PBS col and Paul Bunyon's Stump / Pinnacle / Pyramid)? I had always wanted to climb Colonial ever since I first saw it on my very first trip down highway 20 several years ago. When the clouds cleared revealing Colonial in all it's glory the attraction was magnetic. My decision was made, I was heading for Colonial!

Entering Colonial Glacier Basin

Colonial. This mountain was magnetic this day.

Melt water and waterfall

Pinnacle, Pyramid, and Colonial Glacier

Sun patches at PBS col

The next thousand feet was a bit of a slog. The snow was really softening up in the afternoon heat, especially with more and more sun breaks as the day went on. The higher I went, the softer it got until I was wallowing in calf deep slop around 6800 ft. I had initially planned on trying to bivy at the summit, but the steep snow section was ahead and the NWAC warning to avoid sloppy wet snow more than ankle deep on steep terrain was at the forefront of my mind. It didn't seem safe to continue, and I figured the snow would be better in the morning and hey... that melted out ridge looks flat enough I just might be able to find a flat spot to bivy! I headed over to investigate and sure enough it was flat! And rocky... but I was able to find a spot, kick a few rocks around, and make a nice flat bivy spot for one that was just perfect. There were some birds up there that didn't seem to be affected by my presence one bit. Normally when that happens it means the wildlife is habituated to human presence, but up here? At 6800 ft on Colonial Peak? Can't be too many humans to post up here, so I thought it odd these birds weren't the least bit frightened of me. The sky continued to clear and there was a rainbow over in the direction of Ruby. I set up my bivy and crawled in for a couple hour long nap, setting my alarm so I'd get up for sunset.

Camouflage level 100

Bivy at 6800 ft below Colonial Peak

Rainbow 1

Rainbow 2

The storm is clearing

My alarm rang and I emerged from my bivy, groggy as hell. I don't nap well. The sky was clearing nicely and I was excited to see if it was true that some of the best sunsets happen right after (or right before) a storm. Spoiler alert - in this case it was true, sunset was awesome! The sun set right behind Pinnacle with lovely light over Jack and Ruby, but the real show came after the sun was down, the after burn! Clouds through out the entire sky lit up with pink and orange. The clouds swirled in the wind changing shapes and disappearing in wispy trails of vibrant color. I think I'd put it up there in the top five of colorful sunsets I've seen in the mountains. It was a gift I was very grateful to receive. After the show I hunkered down into my bivy for some sleep, setting an alarm for an early start.

Sunset

Light over Ruby

Hozomeen

Neve

Looking out toward Ross Lake

Jack

Let the burn begin!

Cool clouds over PBS col

This sunset was absolutely gorgeous

Fading light

Sunrise was mediocre compared to sunset, but the sky was clear and it looked like it would be a great day! The route I had eye balled (and the one outlined by Steph Abegg) was different than the one I had a GPS track for. I was still leery of soft snow and the run out looked questionable in parts so I decided to skirt around to the climber's right side of the large buttress and follow my GPS track route. The run out here was pretty good. No cliffs or rocks. I took only one picture (and my lens was foggy, oh well) and quickly decided to put the camera away and focus on my movement during the steep parts. I made my way up and soon ran out of snow and had to transition into a crappy choss traverse towards the summit block. Soon I was back on snow and soon I was at the summit block which had more steep snow, then more steep choss but it was uneventful. The snow was perfectly kickable and I was grateful for that. The summit was amazing! Looking out towards snowfield was incredible. I stayed for about half an hour before departing. No register was found.

Sunrise over Ruby and Jack

Alpenglow

Golden light

Only photo from the steep snow

Chossy traverse

Nearing the summit block

Colonial Peak summit block

Summit!

Snowfield

Baker and Shuksan

A-03963

A-03964

Colonial Peak summit selfie

summit panorama

On descent, the snow was so good I decided to take the other route around the buttress since it is more direct and it went well. I was able to plunge step facing out down the whole thing total comfortably thanks to the perfect snow conditions. It was a beautiful day. As I descended an sensation of immense satisfaction washed over me. I was so glad I decided to go for it, so glad the weather cleared up, and I was absolutely stoked to have climbed Colonial, a peak I have wanted to climb for several years now. It was a good day. In the basin three skiers were making their way up towards Neve col. The traverse was sloppy mush (at only 11am) and I ran into the skiers' friend camped out on the ridge once I had crossed. He was content to chill there for the day, and you know... that's not a bad place to spend a day at all.

Descending

Three skiers in Colonial Glacier Basin

melting

basin

glacier

Skiers working up to Neve col

more glacier

frozen melt water

Colonial and Neve

sun cups

Pyramid

Thanks Colonial, that was fun!

The descent was complicated by following footprints left by people who had no idea where the **** they were going but I was able to get back on route by GPS rather than have to resort to backtracking up hill. I was happy to be able to change back into my trail runners at the 4200 ft bench for a much more comfortable trip back to the car. Great frickin' couple of days in the mountains. I'm still stoked about it!

Colonial Peak routes - I took red up and blue down

[iron]

colonial is one of my top 5 favorite summits. interesting glacier pics you have. i don't recall seeing anything like that on the route you were on.

[Tom]

[geyer]

[ozzy]

Hell yea Aaron way to stick with it! Awesome tr and pics again! I went up there the friday after you and didnt see anyone the whole day!! Thanks again for the intel man. That place is spectacular!

[neek]

I've learned by now to view your pics on the big screen and not mess with the silly little cell phone display. Gotta get out to the Colonial basin some day.

[Nancyann]

Glad you decided not to bail! Wonderful pictures!

[awilsondc]

Thanks! Yeah, the glacier was cool. That ice in the middle of what looked like a frozen lake was pretty cool. I watched a couple chunks fall off of it while I was up there, small ones... Nick, I'm surprised you haven't been up there yet! Make it happen!

[RichP]

You've got a great eye.

[puzzlr]

These trips you do are memories you'll never forget, especially with the astounding photos you bring back to remember what it was like.

[Bootpathguy]

[Jackal]