Michael Lewis Taking a nap
Joined: 27 Apr 2009 Posts: 629 | TRs | Pics Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now) |
Finally got that monkey off my back!
After reading cutebutchossy69's report I was super motivated to finally get it this time. Josh and I got up at 5am and drove from Lynnwood to Chelan in 3 hours catching the Lady of the Lake II out of Chelan on July 11th. We took a nap on the boat to save energy for later buying a couple cupcakes (2 for 1) before disembarking. We left Holden Village at about 2pm after hitting up the buffet leftovers and got to Holden Lake by 4pm.
Tired
The waterfalls coming off the glacier above and pouring over the massive cliffs were just as intimidating as ever. Josh navigated us up some braided trails using a GPX that got us to the climber's path with minimal brush. We made Holden pass around 5:30pm. I stupidly had us go higher up to about 6850' before setting up camp although we had a nice view of Bonanza. A deer kept us company but I had to keep my gold coins away from it.
Thrashed
We woke up slightly late at 6, melted snow, made breakfast, broke down camp and started moving by 7am. The waterfall slabs were more melted out than last time and the slimy rock required some care but I don't remember thinking it was sketchy. The key was to aim high right against the wall and it follows easy ledges to the glacier.
Holden Pass Waterfall Slab Key Ledge Bonanza from Mary Green Double Bonanza
I led up the Mary Green Glacier, occasionally asking for agreement on direction until we arrived at the rock. We should have dropped the rope but brought it for an occasional rappel (never happened). We wanted to make good time so we could make the ferry out that night. We navigated gullies and ledges mostly up and left. Every now and then I would disagree with a gully and found some easier scrambling and we'd meet back up at the top of it. 500 feet of overall class 3 with occasional class 4 moves. It was challenging but not overwhelming. Sometimes I had to back track before I went up something approaching 5th class to find an easier way. Rappel slings indicated we were on route. The summit ridge was spicier than I anticipated and seemed to have some necessary 4th moves in it but perhaps there's a way to keep it all 3rd class if you go slow.
Glacier Peak Wilderness Josh gets second lap Ive been a miner for a Golden Eye
We summitted just before 11am and then it was clear I was missing the boat. Instead of rushing down as originally planned, we took our time. We downclimbed a slightly different way that was more of a direct line to the ridge above where you leave the glacier at 9000'. We took our time and sauntered down the glacier. The waterfall slabs were wetter with all the snow melt so we moved a little slower going down them.
Waterfall slabs
Dried socks at Holden Pass and hiked straight down to Holden Village hoping for a buffet. We were too late but they had leftovers and graciously offered us a room for the night in light of us missing our boat home. The next day we upgraded our passes, swept the floors, cleaned the tables and waved to AJ Fisher and Elijah on our way out.
Josh is beHolden Lake Chelan texture Wake of the Lady
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