Forum Index > Trip Reports > McMillan, Glee, Roost, July 25-26, 2019
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Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostSun Jul 28, 2019 9:39 am 
In 2008, there was a report by Schmidt Altitude for these 3 peaks. It’s been on my mind all that time. More recently there have been a lot of good reports. It is certainly one of the most scenic parts of Washington.
video link July 25 McMillan Spire - 8000’ We hiked the trail to Terror Basin. Two rangers were checking permits right before we got there. From the basin we traversed some slabs, crossed a lake outlet and then ascended to the base of a small glacier.
Despair
Despair
Thornton, Triumph
Thornton, Triumph
Despair, Chopping Block
Despair, Chopping Block
Trapezoid, Big Devil
Trapezoid, Big Devil
Southern Pickets
Southern Pickets
Despair, Chopping Block from Terror Basin
Despair, Chopping Block from Terror Basin
Triumph
Triumph
Trappers, X
Trappers, X
Mike
Mike
Inspiration looks steep
Inspiration looks steep
Climbed a steep snow gully and exited traversing east below the Inspiration/McMillan col. This west ridge is developing a trail up the chossy class 2 dirt on the lower half. The final few hundred feet features some scrambling.
Glee
Glee
Picket Pass
Picket Pass
Redoubt, Luna, Spickard
Redoubt, Luna, Spickard
Furies
Furies
Hozomeen, Prophet
Hozomeen, Prophet
Bacon, Despair
Bacon, Despair
Logan, Goode, Buckner, Colonial, Snowfield, Horseman's Pack
Logan, Goode, Buckner, Colonial, Snowfield, Horseman's Pack
Ragged Ridge, Black, Davis, Logan
Ragged Ridge, Black, Davis, Logan
Azure Lake
Azure Lake
Jack
Jack
Spectre, Fury
Spectre, Fury
Davis, Glee, Roost
Davis, Glee, Roost
Shuksan, Icy, Ruth, Tomyhoi, Crowder
Shuksan, Icy, Ruth, Tomyhoi, Crowder
Baker, Terror
Baker, Terror
McMillan
McMillan
July 26 Glee Peak – 7160’ Josh and I got up early to get Glee which is right above the camping basin. The snow was icy. Good views all around and especially of Azure Lake.
Roost
Roost
Davis
Davis
Azure
Azure
Luna
Luna
Chopping Block, Blum, Baker
Chopping Block, Blum, Baker
Degenhardt, Pyramid, Inspiration
Degenhardt, Pyramid, Inspiration
Mox, Spickard
Mox, Spickard
McMillan
McMillan
The Roost – 6497’ It was starting to get hot, but we detoured for Roost on the descent. The north ridge is pleasant. A lone goat was stationary near the summit.
Roost
Roost
Triumph and Despair
Triumph and Despair
Roost
Roost
Jack, Davis, Ruby
Jack, Davis, Ruby
Snowfield group, Inspiration peaks, Glacier, Ross
Snowfield group, Inspiration peaks, Glacier, Ross
Snowfield, Needle, Horseman's Pack
Snowfield, Needle, Horseman's Pack
Elephant Butte
Elephant Butte
Shuksan
Shuksan
From Roost, Davis and Ross look tantalizingly close. A major cliff along the ridge, nearer the summit of Davis is a deterrent, but to go indirectly, perhaps traversing the northern glacier, could conceivably work out. Dropping 800 or 1200 feet on the south side to explore potential gullies is another option. Anything might be more pleasant than the standard route on Davis. Ultimately, after 3 years of discussion, we decided not to try it on this trip.

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raising3hikers
Member
Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2007
Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, Wa
raising3hikers
Member
PostSun Jul 28, 2019 11:35 am 
Pretty nice pics! You guys certainly picked the right time to go.

Eric Eames
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Michael Lewis
Taking a nap



Joined: 27 Apr 2009
Posts: 629 | TRs | Pics
Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now)
Michael Lewis
Taking a nap
PostTue Jul 30, 2019 8:03 pm 
Hey man thanks for taking us out there.
Southern Pickets
Southern Pickets
approach
approach
tarn in Terror basin
tarn in Terror basin
Inspiration glacier
Inspiration glacier
heading up
heading up
snow gully
snow gully
Why do we climb
Why do we climb
Inspiration to Terror
Inspiration to Terror
McMillan Pano
McMillan Pano
glissaded down
glissaded down
West Mac with Chili Mac
West Mac with Chili Mac

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rbuzby
Attention Surplus



Joined: 24 Feb 2009
Posts: 1006 | TRs | Pics
rbuzby
Attention Surplus
PostWed Jul 31, 2019 6:35 am 
Nice pics. It's cool to see there is a lake now on the way to Mcmillan Spire. That used to be full of ice and snow (in '93 at least), now it's a lake.

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Fletcher
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Member


Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics
Location: kirkland
Fletcher
Member
PostWed Jul 31, 2019 10:25 am 
Excellent!

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ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
Posts: 475 | TRs | Pics
Location: University place, wa
ozzy
The hard way
PostFri Aug 02, 2019 6:08 pm 
Great report as usual Gimp and friends! Thats some sweet lookin country up there! Thanks and cheers!!

“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics
Location: Inexorable descent
Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostMon May 10, 2021 7:45 am 
Very nice work fellas.

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Forum Index > Trip Reports > McMillan, Glee, Roost, July 25-26, 2019
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