Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt Formidable 8-6/8-7-19
Previous :: Next Topic  
Author Message
ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
Posts: 223 | TRs
Location: University place, wa
ozzy
  Top

The hard way
PostMon Aug 12, 2019 10:18 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Well for the second straight week Bryan and i found ourselves in the cascade pass area! The week before we had admiring views of Formidable that inspired us to go get her! We started at 0800 and made cascade pass at 0930. We made it to the cache glacier around 1030 and started to the col shortly after. There was definitely more glacial ice exposed this go around. I hugged the rightside and punched through a snowbridge knee deep that almost made me crap my pants! eek.gif I instantly felt the cold air hit my face and heard a wind tunnel noise! Wow close call, we made the col shortly after. Then we made the 800ft descent to kool aid lake. From there it was to the next obstacle, red ledge! It wasnt easy but wasnt overly hard either. I didnt use crampons either way. The gettin off the snow and up to the ledge took some fancy footwork. After that we made the slightly descending traverse to the toe of the middle cascade glacier. DAMNNNN!! The glacier looked so sweet but intimidating too. Up high we could see a faint boot track through the glacier proper. So we threw on the pons and headed up.

cache glacier
cache glacier
kool aid lake
kool aid lake
yea buddy
yea buddy
Bryan
Bryan
Red ledge
Red ledge
Get some Bryan
Get some Bryan
outta the moat at last
outta the moat at last
ooowwweeeee
ooowwweeeee
icefall on middle cascade glacier
icefall on middle cascade glacier
start point of glacier slog
start point of glacier slog

We stayed as far climbers left as possible until around 7000ft then started the traverse towards the spider/formidable col. It got kinda intense when  being within feet of melting out crevasses! The big ones were easy to stay away from but the smaller ones would seemingly come out of nowhere and you really dont know how big and deep they are lol. I dont travel on glaciers much so my butt was puckered the whole time! I could be over exagerrating lol. We weaved in and out of the mine field for what seemed like too damn long and made the col around 1700! We were treated to amazing views towards old guard and Sentinel! To make it even better we were at our home for the evening! We set up camp in the other col just to the west. The summitpost description says there is room for 2 bivies here and they were right on lol! It was kinda tight but definitely a righteous perch! We drank some whisky and vodka while taking in all the wonder surrounding us! Probably one of the best bivy spots ive had. The stars were crazy that night and it didn't even get cold enough for me to get in the bivy!

Bryan headin up
Bryan headin up
higher
higher
obstacles
obstacles
whoa
whoa
on the traverse to the col, lookin back
on the traverse to the col, lookin back
Spider/formidable col and old guard/sentinel
Spider/formidable col and old guard/sentinel
Negotiating the last little bit
Negotiating the last little bit
relaxin in camp
relaxin in camp
mirin
mirin
sunset on middle cascade
sunset on middle cascade
Bivies
Bivies
sunset over old guard
sunset over old guard

We awoke to a goat walking between our bivies and got ready to start the day. We dropped the 200ft on steep snow down the spider/formidable col. From there we traversed towards the saddle north of pt7285, just above the ptarmigan traverse trail. Once gaining the saddle we dropped another 200ft into a basin on the south side of formidable, the gully was pretty rotten where we dropped at. Then we aimed for the cleaver where you gain access to the other basin that is farthest west just below the summit proper. Bryan was pretty worn out at this point so he called it quits around 7200ft just below said cleaver. paranoid.gif When I mounted the cleaver i just rode the ridge all the way up around 7400ft to  the permanent snowfield where one gains access to the ledges. I was kinda nervous continuing on solo knowing the history of the mountain but overall it wasnt as bad as anticipated thank god lol! I climbed up and to the right on snow to get to the ledges and before long i was on the ledge that wraps around the south face. The chasm crossing was pretty easy and that was probably what worried me the most about the whole trip! Before long i was a couple hundred feet below the summit. I almost made the mistake of going to the rightmost summit but its not that one, its the one farthest climbers right. Before i knew it i was on top awestruck! Superb views all around! I didnt linger too long seeing that i was on edge because of all the obstacles we had to go back through and we didnt want to walk down the mix up arm in the dark. We left camp at 0600 and i made the summit around 1100. I didnt take hardly any pics of the scramble route because it was kinda serious, there were a lot of very large boulders precariously perched waiting to fall on the innocent. After the short summit stay i carefully downclimbed back to Bryan, fully stoked to bag this beast! We climbed back outta the basin and made good time back up to camp. It was mid 80 degree weather both days so we were both feeling it when we got back to camp around 1430. We were nervous about the glacier again mainly because we couldn't really see our boot pack. We made it through with no issues, back down the red ledge and to kool aid lake and we were pretty much home free. The 800ft of gain to get back to cache col sucked. Then back down the cache glacier with no issues where we saw the first people since leaving cascade pass the day before. They were starting the PT. We made it back to the car at 2200, making for a long last day. This trip was one of my best, the scenery absolutely blew me away and i cant wait to go back! What a great couple of days to be alive!! Cheers weary travelers!! cheers.gif

the curious little goat
the curious little goat
downclimbing from spider/formidable col
downclimbing from spider/formidable col
wow
wow
south face formidable, cleaver in left center separating basins
south face formidable, cleaver in left center separating basins
Descending gully from pt7285
Descending gully from pt7285
canonhole on route
canonhole on route
middle cascade glacier from above
middle cascade glacier from above
thy register
thy register
familiars
familiars
familiars
familiars
the author
the author
icefall
icefall
old guard again
old guard again
passin back by
passin back by
Bryan tryin to get off ledges
Bryan tryin to get off ledges

--------------
Milk is for babies. When you grow up you have to drink beer. -Arnold
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Michael Lewis
Taking a nap



Joined: 27 Apr 2009
Posts: 501 | TRs
Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now)
Michael Lewis
  Top

Taking a nap
PostTue Aug 13, 2019 12:02 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Epic beta
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
RichP
Member
Member


Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 4602 | TRs
Location: Moscow, Id.
RichP
  Top

Member
PostTue Aug 13, 2019 6:12 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Lookin' good.  up.gif

--------------
Without obsession, life is nothing. John Waters
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
neek
Member
Member


Joined: 12 Sep 2011
Posts: 664 | TRs
Location: Seattle, WA
neek
  Top

Member
PostTue Aug 13, 2019 11:37 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Very nice!  I feel that the glaciers weren't nearly so sketchy when we did this in Sept 2016.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
iron
getting old



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 6325 | TRs
Location: kenmore
iron
  Top

getting old
PostTue Aug 13, 2019 11:40 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
ozzy wrote:

dang, that is a really sad picture.
send snow now!

--------------
man, you go through life, you try to be nice to people, you struggle to resist the urge to punch 'em in the face, and for what?

--- moe sizlack
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Jake Robinson
Member
Member


Joined: 02 Aug 2016
Posts: 358 | TRs

Jake Robinson
  Top

Member
PostTue Aug 13, 2019 5:42 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Yeah, wow, that looks way more melted out than when I was there last year on 8/28.

Great effort getting this one! That's a haul in two days. I think the sketchiness of Formidable is underplayed a bit. All those loose blocks really spooked me.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Jake Robinson
Member
Member


Joined: 02 Aug 2016
Posts: 358 | TRs

Jake Robinson
  Top

Member
PostTue Aug 13, 2019 5:45 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Here is the Cache Glacier 8/28/18 (photo stolen from Trace Gough)

Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
Posts: 223 | TRs
Location: University place, wa
ozzy
  Top

The hard way
PostTue Aug 13, 2019 7:02 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Thanks Jake! Yea that pic is crazy and sad too! Awesome area though!

--------------
Milk is for babies. When you grow up you have to drink beer. -Arnold
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors



Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 1894 | TRs
Location: My van
Matt Lemke
  Top

High on the Outdoors
PostSat Aug 17, 2019 6:27 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Was my signature from 2013 still there or was the register replaced since then?

--------------
The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!!
SummitPost Profile
See my website at:
http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
  Display:     All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt Formidable 8-6/8-7-19
  Happy Birthday Beave, Gruenk!
Jump to:   
Search this topic:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
   Use Disclaimer Powered by phpBB Privacy Policy