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ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
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Location: University place, wa
ozzy
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The hard way
PostWed Sep 11, 2019 6:13 pm 
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I've been wanting to get up to Boston basin and give Forbidden a shot the whole year. For the longest time I thought the summit could only be attained with the use of ropes until I found the east ridge(ledges) route described in the green Beckey! I think it says the route goes pretty much class3-4 all the way to said summit! I was hoping it wasn't an understatement lol! I had a partner in crime to accompany me along the little jaunt!🤘 Steve hadn't really bagged a peak all year but he's a good climber so I knew he'd be up to it. He didn't really know what he was in for lol. So we headed to the Boston basin trail. We arrived at 0800 and started shortly there after. We made it to the basin around 1000, damn!! Wow, just the basin was a worthy destination! We made our way up towards the basin at the bottom of forbidden. We crawled up slabs to the beginning of the first gully around 1130 and had some lunch. We were around 6600ft.

Steve and badass corrola
Steve and badass corrola
stoked
stoked
amazing, Boston basin
amazing, Boston basin
cool little crossing
cool little crossing
j-burg looming
j-burg looming
up to boston and sahale
up to boston and sahale
getting closer to obj
getting closer to obj
steve and j-burg
steve and j-burg
astonishment
astonishment
almost lunchtime
almost lunchtime
beginning of first gully is just above waterfall
beginning of first gully is just above waterfall

So after lunch the plan was to gain the east ridge, just to the climbers left of the 8300ft gendarme. We stayed in gullies the most part travelling generally in a NE direction for a couple thousand feet. All snow was avoidable, travel was pleasant, and axe and pons caught a free ride again. Once around 8000ft you crest a rocky knoll and can see the gendarme. Up to this point it was rather casual and the scenery was amazing, Steve was stoked! We gained the ridge at 1500 to the left of the gendarme and holy sh##!!! eek.gif The view to the north was astounding to put it lightly lol! The immensity of the boston glacier is beyond words!! rocker.gif  I was almost more stoked for Steve, he has never been anywhere quite like this! It was quite fulfilling, but I knew what lied ahead lol!

steve comin up first gully
steve comin up first gully
dwindling unnamed glacier
dwindling unnamed glacier
starting up second gully
starting up second gully
topping out in second gully, I think
topping out in second gully, I think
8300ft gendarme to right
8300ft gendarme to right
boston and sahale from east ridge
boston and sahale from east ridge
the boston glacier
the boston glacier

From the gendarme we looked for a place to drop onto the north face. Steve's demeanor turned to a serious character lol! We dropped down a nasty gully with a little class 4 move at the top, it was the trickiest move up to this point. We dropped 80ft or so and exited the gully left when the downclimbing became hazardous. From here it was rather intimidating looking at the sheer steepness of the ledges and all the ribs we had to go up and over! It was pretty clear that we would be in a no fall zone for awhile! There are some cairns along the way that should keep you on route but it's easy to get back on route if you stray off, just be weary of holds. Steve wasn't completely certain that we would be able to weasel our way up but it worked out slowly. I had read R3H's TR beforehand so this instilled a little confidence, but he also makes everything sound like a walk in the park! lol.gif  We worked across the north face until we got to a wide gully about 400ft below the summit and just below the north ridge! From here the climbing was alotta class 4 with some class 3 thrown in there! rocker.gif  We were both still on edge and worked the route nicely. The only real sketchy spot was about 15ft below the summit, a down sloping slab with minimal holds. Once we topped out it was pure exhilaration! eek.gif  Holy f### shitballs!!! The view of moraine lake, klawatti lake, the whole inspiration traverse!!! rocker.gif  Goddamn I don't know how in the hell you beat those views!! The summit was rather precipitous and just big enough for the 2 of us. Better yet we had the whole mountain to ourselves. Only humans seen were descending the west ridge in the morning! I couldn't find a register so I shimmied up the other summit to the west and still didn't find one. Oh well. We chilled up there for an hour and I drank a little whiskey not knowing if it would be my last lol! cheers.gif Damn what a day to be alive!

dropping down to ledges
dropping down to ledges
route ahead
route ahead
holding on tight lol
holding on tight lol
steve on ledges proper
steve on ledges proper
inspiration traverse area
inspiration traverse area
broad gully under summit with steve
broad gully under summit with steve
steve on side of north ridge
steve on side of north ridge
pretty airy up there
pretty airy up there
Steve did not move from that spot lol
Steve did not move from that spot lol
cheers
cheers

We made the summit around 1630 and made our way down around 1730. We were a little nervous about the down climb and wanted to be off the north face by dark at least. The climb down was probably easier as we could see a lot of ways that would go. It went off without a hitch and we made the 8300ft gendarme around 1830 just as clouds engulfed the summit and surrounding peaks. The nasty little gully was a little tricky to get out of. We stayed on the ridge for about 30mins until the clouds whited us out and then we descended in to the fading light. We enjoyed the moonlight and spotty glimpses  of the milky way and stars the rest of the way to the car. It was a leisurely pace and we made it back at midnight. We were on cloud nine while back at the safe haven that was the corrola! Man! What a day! I still can't believe there is a scramble route up this behemoth! This route probably shouldn't be taken for granted, the exposure is real and it's not a beginner hike lol! Thanks R3H and Mr Beckey! What a sweet day to be wandering around the mountains! Cheers yall! cheers.gif

broad gully under summit
broad gully under summit
bruckner, boston, sahale
bruckner, boston, sahale
clouds moving in
clouds moving in
down the ledges
down the ledges
exiting the ledges
exiting the ledges
nasty little gully below east ridge
nasty little gully below east ridge
last move to get up outta there
last move to get up outta there
we lived today!
we lived today!

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Milk is for babies. When you grow up you have to drink beer. -Arnold
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awilsondc
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 6:37 pm 
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stun.gif You've outdone yourself Ozzy!  My jaw dropped a little when I saw a Forbidden Peak report with your name next to it, knowing you don't do roped climbs.  Stoked to see you bag this beast!  Well done!  rocker.gif
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olderthanIusedtobe
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 6:55 pm 
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Cool!  up.gif   Years ago I climbed the West Ridge w/ a buddy, we descended the East Ridge ledges.  The descent was just a blur, my feet hurt and I just wanted to get down.  I don't even remember that great view of the Boston Glacier.  Thanks for capturing it.
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Kascadia
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 7:33 pm 
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Spectacular photos, spectacular trip!  Long ago, we came over Sharkfin Col to the Boston Glacier, traversed over to the North Ridge (NE) of Forbidden, crossed it and rapped down to the Forbidden Glacier.  We then came up that snow/ice face to the North Ridge and ran it up to the summit.  That was an incredibly aesthetic climb, your pics on the ridge brought it back.  Great work, bold too!   up.gif
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raising3hikers
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 7:58 pm 
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beautiful pics!  so cool you went the east ledges route up.gif   also like steve's hat! go hawks

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Eric Eames
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Jake Robinson
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 8:45 pm 
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Really cool to see a report for this route! Can't believe you had Forbidden Peak to yourselves on a good weather day! So nice up there  up.gif
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veronika
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 9:10 pm 
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up.gif  up.gif  up.gif  Very awesome! Thanks for the report. It looks like a lot of fun!  biggrin.gif

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Take risks not to escape life, but to prevent life from escaping

I may not have anyone rocking my world right now but, I don't have anyone messing it up either.
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uww
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 9:15 pm 
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Now that's a good day! Nice job!
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mtn.climber
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 9:22 pm 
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Just freakin WOW!! borank.gif

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Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come.

Live the life of love.  Love the life you live.
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Fletcher
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PostWed Sep 11, 2019 11:44 pm 
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Thatís one way to do it! Cheers.
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Jeff
Ramen Elitist



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PostThu Sep 12, 2019 4:22 am 
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I understand that everyone has their own tastes, but why choose a route like that on a mountain with so many other highly rated routes? Was it an enjoyable route?
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Bronco
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PostThu Sep 12, 2019 8:21 am 
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Great photos and stoke!  Why the aversion to learning rope work?  It opens up so many more routes for you.
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iron
getting old



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getting old
PostThu Sep 12, 2019 8:50 am 
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Jeff wrote:
I understand that everyone has their own tastes, but why choose a route like that on a mountain with so many other highly rated routes? Was it an enjoyable route?

because you don't need a rope

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man, you go through life, you try to be nice to people, you struggle to resist the urge to punch 'em in the face, and for what?

--- moe sizlack
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Gimpilator
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PostThu Sep 12, 2019 9:10 am 
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Stoked for you.  Wow

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https://www.youtube.com/c/Zogador
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Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
Posts: 237 | TRs
Location: University place, wa
ozzy
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The hard way
PostThu Sep 12, 2019 2:09 pm 
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Thank y'all for the awesome comments and help over the years!! As for the route taken, it was a lot of fun! It was a bunch of solid class 3-4 and pretty easy to avoid all the loose sh##. If I had rope knowledge sure I probably would have taken a different route just to say i did it but this is probably the fastest and easiest way to tackle this monster. I do like to travel light too and ropes/gear add weight, I need every advantage I can get lol! In the future i do wanna add ropes into the mix but for now I'll go up anyway I can! Cheers!

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Milk is for babies. When you grow up you have to drink beer. -Arnold
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Forbidden Pk NCNP via east ledges 9-6-19
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