[Nancyann]

I’ve been saving this one for a rainy day, just couldn’t decide which rainy day to post it. Last June, my brother and I joined my son, who lived in Germany at the time, for a week hiking in Switzerland, my second year in a row. Even though Europe was experiencing a record heat wave, the high passes in the Alps were still snowed in, due to heavy late spring snow. Initially we had hoped to hike Sections 12 and 13 of the Via Alpina, staying at high huts along the way. Several high passes were still snowbound, requiring mountaineering gear, so instead we broke the trip into two sections, and just hiked as far up the trails as possible. For Section 12, we hiked to Murren where we spent one night, and then up past Gimmelwald to a hut called Rottstalkhutte, where we spent the second night. We were totally blown away by the magnificent scenery, and couldn’t imagine experiencing anything more amazing..until we embarked on Section 13 of the Via Alpina, beginning at the quaint village of Kandersteg.

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

We spent the night in a nice hotel close to the trailhead, and got an early start for our dayhike up Section 13 past beautiful Lake Ochinensee to the high pass of Blüemlisalp, where there was a high hut that hadn’t opened yet. My son and I hiked the 2 1/2 miles to the lake where we met my brother, who opted to take the gondola, like the rest of the more savvy people who were avoiding the heat. The lake was a stunning turquoise color, set in a cirque surrounded by magnificent peaks.

Lake Ochinensee at the beginning of the Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Lake Ochinensee at the beginning of the Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Lake Ochinensee along the Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

There was a little cafe near the gondola, so we agreed to meet there at the end of the day, as my brother wanted to take a side trail that connected to the Via Alpina. My son and I headed up the Via Alpina towards the high pass, amazed by the ever increasing grandeur of the scenery along the way.

Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Lake Ochinensee, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

The Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Lake Ochinensee, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Lake Ochinensee, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Lake Ochinensee, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Lake Ochinensee, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

It was a very hot day, and I was having so much fun taking pictures that we decided my son, who was able to hike (just a little )faster than me, would continue on up to the high pass if possible and I would meet him as he was coming back down. Meanwhile, the scenery kept getting more spectacular!

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

At around 7,000 feet elevation, I came upon a little tiny hut which sold beverages and snacks, and even had a bathroom. This is one of my favorite things about hiking in Switzerland! It was a very hot afternoon, probably in the mid-eighties, so I bought an ice cold Appel Schorel and sat down in the shade to soak in the beauty of my surroundings.

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Not long after I sat down, a nice Swiss lady came over and struck up a conversation with me. She wanted to make sure I was doing ok in the heat, and wondered how far I was planning on going. This was another example of the warm hospitality we have experienced from the Swiss people over the past two years while traveling in the Alps. She gave me a very helpful tip on the best time to hike in Switzerland, which was to go the week before school gets out, and all the Swiss in the cities and lowlands head for the hills for the rest of the summer. It just happened that we randomly chose that time for this year’s trip! After my little break at the hut, I continued up the trail, and soon came upon a herd of sheep clustered in a cave on the side of the trail. They looked miserable on this very hot day with their heavy wool coats.

The herd of sheep that followed me, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Not long after that, I met my son who was returning from his attempt to reach the high hut at the pass.

My son on the Via Alpina Section 13, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

The snow had become quite slippery due to the heat and the going was treacherous even with Microspikes, so he turned around. Shortly after that, he was passed by two Swiss girls carrying 40 pound packs full of supplies for the hut, not even wearing traction or carrying ice axes. I had been watching a helicopter near the pass, wondering if it also was delivering supplies, but it turns out it was extracting an injured hiker who didn’t have the proper footwear for the terrain. My son just happened to be there during the rescue and took a cool video which can be seen on my Flickr page, but I can’t seem to put here. We began hiking back to the trailhead at this point, but he went on ahead when I stopped to look at the sheep in the cave. That’s when things got interesting...I started back down the trail to catch up with my son, and suddenly I heard a baaa! behind me. I turned around to see two cute little sheep running to catch up with me. Not sure what to do, I continued on, but soon I heard several more bleating sheep. I looked over my shoulder, and the entire herd of 20 or so sheep were running down the trail trying to catch up with me! Did I look like somebody they knew? What would happen if they followed me all the way down to the trailhead? Not to mention that this section of trail just happened to traverse a cliff blasted out of rocks high above Lake Ochinensee. Would they get mad and knock me off the cliff like my neighbor’s goat that liked to headbutt? I saw my son up ahead and shouted at him. He turned to see me with my entourage and started laughing and snapped a few pictures.

My experience as accidental shepherdess, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19 courtesy D. Abell

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Herd of sheep following me, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19 courtesy D. Abell

I caught up with him, and like a good son, he valiantly placed himself between me and the herd of sheep. So, the group of us continued on down the trail, whereupon we ran into my brother, who had come up the side trail. He just happened to be at a spot on the trail below a large grassy meadow. All 25 of us stopped here to assess the situation and, lo and behold, the herd of sheep became very happy and excited and ran up into the grassy meadow, where they began eating dinner!

Happy sheep, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19 Courtesy L. Adair

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

Courtesy L. Adair

Mission accomplished, I guess, and we quietly snuck off down the trail. As we were leaving, I heard one more baaa! and turned to see two sheep bidding us farewell. The rest of the trip down to the lake was uneventful, and as evening approached, my brother and I decided to stop at the little cafe by the gondola for refreshments and an easy ride back down the hill.

Post hike apricot kuchen, Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19, courtesy L. Adair

Kandersteg, Switzerland 6/28/19

What an amazing and memorable day on the Via Alpina it had been, bringing to a close a wonderful and unforgettable week experiencing the beauty and grandeur of the Swiss Alps!

[HitTheTrail]

A truly grand corner of the Alps! It looks a little different in the summer than it does when snow covered. I must go back and try the hiking trails also. Thanks for the memories.

[Songs2]

What a charming story! It brought back memories of my being adopted by some goats. Nothing would dissuade them ... I stayed in Bluemlisalphutte. One sleeping room for women, one for men. Check your boots and sticks at the door. The glacier came down to within about 20 yards of the hut. On the last 1/3 mile approaching the hut, the altitude got the best of me. It took me at least an hour to struggle on, after I abandoned the backpack (one of the workmen at the hut ran down and retrieved it for me). Take 2 or 3 steps, stop and pant. It snowed overnight, September. The following day I continued down the other side, through initially deep snow, with a tradesman and his two charming daughters who lived in Interlaken. We saw many chamois, small, delicate mountain goats that are protected. I remember it as one of the most gorgeous areas I hiked. The hut is frequently used as the jumping-off point for higher, technical ascents.

[olderthanIusedtobe]

Wow, spectacular!

[Nancyann]

HTT, I hope you can go back there in the summer sometime, it’s an unforgettable experience! That’s an interesting story, Songs2! We were fairly well acclimated because we had just come off Section 12, Lauterbrunnen to Grisalp, which was a similar elevation. That trail from Kandersteg up towards the pass was a pretty rigorous walk though! olderthanIusedtobe, you should go!

[HikerJohn]

Cool trip, Nancyann, I'm just back from Kandersteg (spent a couple of days at the Scout Centre there). Not a lot of snow on the ground in the valley, but up in the hills it was gorgeous and sunny!

[HitTheTrail]

[HikerJohn]

[RichP]

Looks fabulous, Nancyann. Lucky you!