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Seattle_Wayne
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Seattle_Wayne
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PostMon Feb 24, 2020 11:57 am 
I'm thinking about using International Mountain Guides to summit Mount Shuksan, Mount Baker and Mount Rainier. The cost is approximately $1,000 an expedition. Plus, all the gear I'll need to buy. I've priced out most things I'll need, (I have a lot of gear already). What're you're thoughts on using guided professionals for these mountains? I've never done any technical climbing so I feel it's worth it for my safety and to learn under professional guidance. up.gif

Vesper Peak
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Malachai Constant
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PostMon Feb 24, 2020 12:00 pm 
If you are unsure IMO it is better to go with a pro.

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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Randito
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Randito
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PostMon Feb 24, 2020 12:32 pm 
IMO: With guides you get the benefit of their experience and knowledge of the route. The downside is that you commit to climbing on a specific date and the weather on that date can be marginal or downright dangerous. The usual procedure is to drag clients up in miserable conditions until they are very uncomfortable before pulling the plug. There are fewer demands for refunds that way. Developing the set of skills and climbing partners needed to undertake those climbs independently means you can choose to climb in good weather conditions and avoid marginal conditions. That's a much bigger investment than guiding fees.

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ChinookPass
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PostMon Feb 24, 2020 3:44 pm 
I thoroughly enjoyed my IMG trip up Rainier about 10 years ago. We took a 4-day training camp that ended with a summit. We were quite lucky with the weather as there was a windy spell a day before the summit. The trip itself was entertaining and I have a lot of memories from it. I went with 2 friends and I think there were 8 climbers total. One fellow from Georgia didn't make it past camp Muir due to altitude sickness. One solo dude turned out to be popping pills but they set aside a guide to shepherd him to the top since everyone else refused to go on the rope with him. There was one woman on the trip and there was some chemistry between her and this other young guy who was ON HIS HONEYMOON with new wife hanging out back in town the whole time! We spent a fair amount of time resetting the IMG camp up at Muir, shoveling snow and fixing things due to the melting. I learned a ton but never got around to joining one of the mountaineering clubs for further training.

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SteeperColder
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PostMon Feb 24, 2020 5:11 pm 
I concur with Malachai Constant... especially if you are trying to climb all of these this season... The 2020 Mountaineers Glacier Course is probably full, and on wait list status... Not sure about A.A.I.

"You won't find reasonable men on the tops of tall mountains" - Hunter S. Thompson
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silence
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PostMon Feb 24, 2020 5:42 pm 
While we never used IMG ... I would totally recommend them. My next choice would be American Alpine Institute (AAI). If you want to learn all you need about glacier mountaineering, have the time, and don't want to spend so much money I recommend joining a climbing club, because you can accomplish all your goals and more that way. My choice would be the Bushwhacker Climbing Club.

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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moonspots
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moonspots
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PostTue Feb 25, 2020 10:08 am 
Seattle_Wayne wrote:
I'm thinking about using International Mountain Guides to summit Mount Shuksan, Mount Baker and Mount Rainier. The cost is approximately $1,000 an expedition. Plus, all the gear I'll need to buy. I've priced out most things I'll need, (I have a lot of gear already). What're you're thoughts on using guided professionals for these mountains? I've never done any technical climbing so I feel it's worth it for my safety and to learn under professional guidance. up.gif
Yes, to start out with (and, if you do not have experienced, careful partners), a guide is the way to go. I've used IMG for all these mountains, and more. They are a class act, and in my opinion, they are one of, if not THE best guide service in the area. I base this opinion on conversations I've had with other guides over the years. They know the way (and where not to go), they have medical experience, and sat phones and radios for emergencies. The guides also do the cooking, supply the tents, setup camp etc. and are SO willing to share their knowledge, so using a guide is an excellent idea until you gain the experience and trustworthy partners to enable you to "go it on your own".

"Out, OUT you demons of Stupidity"! - St Dogbert, patron Saint of Technology
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graywolf
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PostTue Feb 25, 2020 10:29 am 
moonspots wrote:
Seattle_Wayne wrote:
I'm thinking about using International Mountain Guides to summit Mount Shuksan, Mount Baker and Mount Rainier. The cost is approximately $1,000 an expedition. Plus, all the gear I'll need to buy. I've priced out most things I'll need, (I have a lot of gear already). What're you're thoughts on using guided professionals for these mountains? I've never done any technical climbing so I feel it's worth it for my safety and to learn under professional guidance. up.gif
Yes, to start out with (and, if you do not have experienced, careful partners), a guide is the way to go. I've used IMG for all these mountains, and more. They are a class act, and in my opinion, they are one of, if not THE best guide service in the area. I base this opinion on conversations I've had with other guides over the years. They know the way (and where not to go), they have medical experience, and sat phones and radios for emergencies. The guides also do the cooking, supply the tents, setup camp etc. and are so willing to share their knowledge, so using a guide is an excellent idea until you gain the experience and trustworthy partners do it on your own.
I met your guide (and you!) when your party was descending from Glacier Meadows - he struck me as a very capable person. He was also very friendly and quick with a smile.

The only easy day was yesterday...
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moonspots
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moonspots
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PostTue Feb 25, 2020 10:52 am 
graywolf wrote:
I met your guide (and you!) when your party was descending from Glacier Meadows - he struck me as a very capable person. He was also very friendly and quick with a smile.
Yes, I recall that encounter! And I keep a lookout for you, and others from NWH ever since. Yeah, Luke was very capable, and quite a character! One of the log crossings he went across to demonstrate, went back to take the pack of one of the guys who wasn't doing well, carried both heavy packs across with the grace and ease of one who had no weight on his back! up.gif

"Out, OUT you demons of Stupidity"! - St Dogbert, patron Saint of Technology
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thunderhead
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PostTue Feb 25, 2020 11:05 am 
Going with guides for your first couple climbs is a great idea. You'll learn a lot and won't die. Win win! I should add that while it was 13 years ago, I did Rainier with IMG when i was just starting. No complaints. They were well run and competent.

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graywolf
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PostTue Feb 25, 2020 1:06 pm 
moonspots wrote:
graywolf wrote:
I met your guide (and you!) when your party was descending from Glacier Meadows - he struck me as a very capable person. He was also very friendly and quick with a smile.
Yes, I recall that encounter! And I keep a lookout for you, and others from NWH ever since. Yeah, Luke was very capable, and quite a character! One of the log crossings he went across to demonstrate, went back to take the pack of one of the guys who wasn't doing well, carried both heavy packs across with the grace and ease of one who had no weight on his back! up.gif
Well, keep your eyes open! We retired this past fall and moved from Poulsbo to Sequim to be closer to the north and west ends of the park. We'll be looking for you.

The only easy day was yesterday...
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Backpacker Joe
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Backpacker Joe
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PostWed Feb 26, 2020 11:29 am 
If you have the gear, and IF you have experience (should you really go before you get some climbing experience) Id think you could find some people here or on Cascade Climbers to go with. https://cascadeclimbers.com/

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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Seattle_Wayne
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PostWed Feb 26, 2020 6:10 pm 
Thank you to all for the advice regarding mountaineering guides. I think I will still consider IMG for one of my first big climbs up one of these mountains and probably look at joining a climbing club, too.

Vesper Peak
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