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rocknclimb
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Joined: 10 Sep 2010
Posts: 474 | TRs | Pics
Location: Wenatchee Valley
rocknclimb
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PostFri Jun 05, 2020 7:23 pm 
Snagtooth pano
Snagtooth pano
Was hoping to climb this weekend, but with another iffy forecast nothing was looking great. Thankfully Neil, Liz, and myself all managed to get a rare Thursday off from work. After some chatter our group settled on an attempt at Big Snagtooth. Extra excitement for the day as it would be the first real alpine climb for Liz! The three of us met at the Mazama store around 7:30. Usually excited for a breakfast sandwich from the local store, but sadly with COVID they are pre-made now and no better than gas station food. Anyways, we headed for the SS pullout up the road to begin the fun. Had a bit of a late start at 8:30, but only figured for a 9 hour day (wrong). Plenty of logs to cross Early Winters Creek after dropping a couple hundred feet.
Early Winters Creek
Early Winters Creek
Didn't do a ton of research, but knew the general idea was to follow Willow Creek up to above 6,000'. Made the mistake of staying low next to Early Winters, and the brush proved awful. In hindsight we should have done an ascending traverse to meet Willow Cr at a higher elevation. Thankfully after a thousand vert the forest became much more bearable.
Typical schwacking below 6,000'
Typical schwacking below 6,000'
forest opening up just a bit
forest opening up just a bit
Hit snow around 5,500', but really wasn't consist until 6,400'.
First snow just under 6,000'
First snow just under 6,000'
open basin at 6,800'
open basin at 6,800'
Snagtooth Ridge looming above
Snagtooth Ridge looming above
Clouds covering Tower & Golden Horn
Clouds covering Tower & Golden Horn
The 3 of us worked our way up easy slopes to a nice basin at 7,000' that sits under Snagtooth Ridge.
Pleasant basin
Pleasant basin
Thankful to see the route up the ridge was 3/4 snow, but melting quick. The snow was a bit firm requiring crampons and axe, but the rock above was absolute garbage.
Ridge access just left of the gendarme.  Mix of snow and really bad scree.
Ridge access just left of the gendarme. Mix of snow and really bad scree.
up to the kitty litter ridge
up to the kitty litter ridge
At the saddle w/ Snagtooth and Silver Star in the back.
At the saddle w/ Snagtooth and Silver Star in the back.
Kangaroo Ridge
Kangaroo Ridge
After a good rest we headed up Kitty Litter ridge toward the saddle between Willow and Big Snagtooth.
Well deserved rest
Well deserved rest
Nearing the saddle
Nearing the saddle
Kitty litter scree ridge
Kitty litter scree ridge
At this point time was becoming somewhat a concern. It had taken us much longer than anticipated due to brush, route issues, gear changes etc. We all agreed on a 5:00 turn back time. Figured we would tag Willow Tooth 1st before pulling out the rock gear.
A sea of peaks
A sea of peaks
Summit of Willows Tooth looking at Snag
Summit of Willows Tooth looking at Snag
Hwy 20 and surrounding mountains
Hwy 20 and surrounding mountains
Silver Star
Silver Star
Back to the saddle quickly and got harnessed up. This is the moment I learned my rock shoes had been left at a break location earlier. I don't like climbing rock in mountaineering boots.
Looking at Willow Tooth
Looking at Willow Tooth
Lizzy admiring the view from the saddle
Lizzy admiring the view from the saddle
The 1st "pitch" was about 20 feet right of the rap station. Neil led up with a sling and #1 cam for protection. Liz and myself followed up on belay.
1st pitch out of the Saddle
1st pitch out of the Saddle
The friction slab was tricky as expected. Liz stood on shoulders to free climb up. Neil then stood on mine to get up the first couple moves. With mountaineering boots I tossed up the rope asking for belay. We made the top at 4:30 happy as a clam.
Neil at the boulder slab problem
Neil at the boulder slab problem
Shoulder stand technique
Shoulder stand technique
Waiting for a belay
Waiting for a belay
The register is full and soaked, so please bring a new one if you plan to climb.
Summit posing
Summit posing
Summit shot!
Summit shot!
Peaks for days
Peaks for days
Kangaroo Ridge et al
Kangaroo Ridge et al
Summit views
Summit views
Didn't hang out more than a few minutes hoping to beat dark on the way out. Good slings at both rap stations currently.
Rap from the summit
Rap from the summit
Neil on rappel
Neil on rappel
2nd rap
2nd rap
We zipped down kitty litter Ridge and plunge stepped to the 7,000' basin. Although in a hurry out, we absolutely had time for our "summit" beers.
Tower out of the clouds
Tower out of the clouds
Correcting our mistake earlier we made a descending traverse toward Silver Star Creek. This was absolutely the right call avoiding the awful brush. Reached the cars just after 8:00 happy and tired. Sat around watching the alpenglow fall over Silver Star and cheering my friends on a darn good day.
End the day w/ beer and alpenglow
End the day w/ beer and alpenglow
7.5 miles 4,360 gained 11.15 hours Another great day in the mountains!!!

When asked "Why do you climb"? Simply respond "Why don't you"?
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ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
Posts: 475 | TRs | Pics
Location: University place, wa
ozzy
The hard way
PostFri Jun 05, 2020 7:44 pm 
Sweeeet buddy!! Glad to see you bagged said tooth! rocker.gif We got up that thing on monday and I did my first alpine rappel!! The register was soaked then too. Nice tr! Cheers!

“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
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rocknclimb
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Joined: 10 Sep 2010
Posts: 474 | TRs | Pics
Location: Wenatchee Valley
rocknclimb
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PostFri Jun 05, 2020 7:55 pm 
ozzy wrote:
We got up that thing on monday and I did my first alpine rappel!!
Dude, saw the post and was like "Ozzy on a rope, no way". Thanks for the beta. We. Need to get a climb on here soon.

When asked "Why do you climb"? Simply respond "Why don't you"?
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mtn.climber
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Joined: 29 Jul 2008
Posts: 1202 | TRs | Pics
Location: The Lost Horizon
mtn.climber
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PostSun Jun 07, 2020 5:55 pm 
Congrats to all three! Glad you beat your turn-around time. Great views from up there.

Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come. Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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Silas
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Joined: 14 Aug 2012
Posts: 76 | TRs | Pics
Silas
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PostSun Apr 17, 2022 1:35 pm 
Thanks for the beta on this peak. We are looking to do this as a day trip this June around the same time of year you did it last year. Shame to hear you no longer enjoy the Mazama Store sandwiches. May I recommend the crispitos at the Marblemount Shell gas station? They are not necessarily fresh, but they are cheap. And in this post-inflation world, it's the only hope I have...

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