[TheWaterboy]

After failing at Eldorado Peak last October I wanted to take a shot while there is still ample snow on the mountain. I was also hoping to climb Kilwatti and Austera (Austere?) while I was in the area.

I was able to find an easy log crossing by going straight into the bushes behind where the cars park. Just to the left once on the beach, there is a large log that was perfect for crossing. There is supposedly another option just down the road right now too.

After getting through the first boulder field I began walking into a foggy abyss. Currently, the boulder fields are free of snow making the travel easier. Make sure to stick to climbers right in the boulder fields. It is far easier to navigate than the cairns that lead to climbers left. After the area covered in waterfalls, the snow becomes consistent though easy to walk in. The only part after this completely snow-free is the gulley down to the Roush Basin. The scrambling down into the basin was easy and there is a solid boot pack all the way up the glaciers.

By the time I arrived on the flat part of the inspiration glacier to look for a camp, I could barely see 20 feet in any direction. I noticed at least one tent off to my left and so I headed that way to find my own tent site. The pair whos tent I had spotted invited me over to share their tent wall. Ecstatic not to have as much work to set up camp I accepted. The three of us got to chatting and it turned out hey had come up a day before to climb the same three peaks as me. Unfortunately, the thick fog and other bad weather had kept them off any of the mountains. I knew by this point I wasn't going to be climbing either of the two I had planned for the day. After a while the three of us decided to give a small notch near camp a try. It was fogless and looked like a good easy climb to pass some time.

After climbing the notch, me and one of them decided to go check out the inspiration glacier a little more. We headed up the west side of Eldorado Peak and made it 600 or so feet from the top of Eldorado using a small couloir. The weather above us, snow conditions, and my hunger made us turn back though.

By the time I had eaten dinner, the sky was clearing back up and Eldorado Peak was finally starting to be visible. I was in bed nice and early so I could be up by 3. I was on the trail to the top by 3:30am and climbing in moonlight so bright I didn't need my headlamp on. The snow was nice and solid making for a quick pace. Despite stopping many times to take in the views, I was up to the Knife's edge in under an hour.

I took a break there for a few minutes and then proceeded up to watch the sunrise.

The climb of Eldorado is a blast and conditions are perfect up there right now. The worst part is the approach to the base of the mountain. Totally worth taking the overnight gear and getting an epic sunrise in your summer.

For more of my Eldorado Peak Trip check out the link

[Jackal]

Your sunrise/2climbers shot is absolutely sublime.

[TheWaterboy]

Thank you Jackal! When I turned around and saw that I was stunned for just a moment and nearly didn't grab the photo.

[TheWaterboy]

After the knife's edge there was a "flatter" section on the summit. But, it still had a pretty good slope towards the northwest side.

[Downhill]

Congratulations on a nice trip! One of my favorite spots in the Cascade!!! If you get a chance to go back, add a day or so to your trip and go out and scramble up Klawatti, but not for the climb (it's a pile of loose bricks) but for the scenery. Bag a fun crag (like Bandana) or two along the way. And if you have enough time, a summit or two in the Dorado Needle/Early Morning Spire area are worthwhile as well. Thank you for posting your beautiful photography and TR.