Forum Index > Trip Reports > Genesis-Prophet 7/18-19
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Jake Robinson
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Jake Robinson
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PostMon Jul 20, 2020 1:27 pm 
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This has already been TR'd here, but I figured I would put this up primarily to discourage others from using this approach to Genesis (or at least let them know what they are getting themselves into). In short, approaching from the saddle NW of Pumpkin Mtn goes, but it is rather painful. I had read an old TR that made this way sound pretty easy, but then read a more recent TR from Stefan and Matt that said not to go this way. I chose to believe the old TR for some reason. Lesson learned, listen to Stefan and Matt!

Due to severe delays in getting our permit, Masayo and I weren't crossing Ross Dam until 10 AM. Unfortunately this meant we would be doing the hot, dry slog up from Pumpkin Mountain in the afternoon heat. The first part up to the saddle is pretty open but then it gets brushy. Near the saddle we hit bad brush for a while and swarming mosquitoes. Unfortunately, my head net was the first casualty of the bushwhack. Then near the saddle we hit extensive deadfall. Climbing over, under, around deadfall for every step. Trying to walk on top of deadfall. Falling off of said deadfall. Scrapes, bruises, bug bites, sunburn. High price of admission going this way. This continued for a few thousand feet. At times we were only doing 600-700 feet per hour.

Colonial, PBS, Pyramid
Colonial, PBS, Pyramid
Jack
Jack
Starts off pretty open
Starts off pretty open
Luna
Luna
This, ad nauseam.
This, ad nauseam.
May Creek falls
May Creek falls

Eventually, around 4500 feet, the going improved considerably but the mosquitoes were really bad. All the deadfall travel while hauling 4-5 liters of water had sapped our energy. We set camp on point 6532 and thankfully had running water and less mosquitoes. Maybe it wouldn't be as bad going down, but going up this was seriously no fun. If you want to do Genesis, consider just doing the out and back from Prophet...

Improving travel on the ridge
Improving travel on the ridge
Jack
Jack
Looking down the ridge
Looking down the ridge
Hozomeen
Hozomeen
Camp
Camp

The next morning Masayo decided she wasn't feeling up for the rest of the trip. Normally I do not like to separate from partners, but Masayo is a very experienced solo hiker, and she assured me she'd be completely fine hiking out alone and encouraged me to go for the rest of the trip (she eventually made it back safely). I set out solo for Genesis at 6:30 AM and reached the summit in about an hour of straightforward ridge travel. From Genesis to the Prophet-Genesis col is also straightforward ridge travel. From the col, I dropped to about 6000 feet to get around some cliffs and entered Prophet's east basin.

Sunrise
Sunrise
Looking back to 6532 from Genesis ascent
Looking back to 6532 from Genesis ascent
McMillan Cirque from Genesis
McMillan Cirque from Genesis
Genesis summit cairn. No register....
Genesis summit cairn. No register....
Prophet
Prophet
6532 and Jack
6532 and Jack
P-G col and Prophet
P-G col and Prophet
Prophet east basin
Prophet east basin

The snow in the basin was firm and a bit steeper than expected, so out came the mountaineering boots and ice axe. I reached the ridge near Jeremiah and then made my way across straightforward class 2/3 to Prophet's summit, about 3 hours from Genesis. The views from Prophet are as good as you'd expect given its location.

Final ascent to Prophet summit
Final ascent to Prophet summit
Pickets
Pickets
Access Creek
Access Creek
North to Saint/Sinner, Redoubt, Moxes
North to Saint/Sinner, Redoubt, Moxes
Southern Pickets
Southern Pickets
Layers: Stetattle, Davis, Big Devil, Snowking, Sloan
Layers: Stetattle, Davis, Big Devil, Snowking, Sloan
SW Rib ("Jacob's Ladder"). First climbed in its entirety in 2018 by Jason Griffith and Kit Moffitt.
SW Rib ("Jacob's Ladder"). First climbed in its entirety in 2018 by Jason Griffith and Kit Moffitt.

Originally I had planned to go for Saint/Sinner, but it looked exposed, and I was feeling pretty alone out there. Instead I figured I'd just hike out to the car since it was still pretty early in the day. I left the summit at 11 AM. On the way down I passed over "Jeremiah" AKA "No Profit." The Trail Blazers' first ascent register was still there in a film canister with the FA party signing in on one of Dan Sjolseth's business cards. The only other entry was from Roper's party in 1997, written on a book of matches.

Trail Blazers FA
Trail Blazers FA
Roper's party
Roper's party
Here is the route from Genesis into Prophet's east basin
Here is the route from Genesis into Prophet's east basin
Prophet
Prophet

I used the SE ridge/Thirtynine Mile Creek route to descend, as described by KarlK. It's very steep and tedious at times, but overall a pretty good route. Much better than the route from Pumpkin Saddle! I soaked my aching feet in Thirtynine Mile Creek, then it was only about 12 or 13 miles out to the car. The last few miles were torturous, as expected. Made it back to the car by dinner time. It's a long trek but a nice, seldom-visited area.

Some Sierra-sized sun cups in here
Some Sierra-sized sun cups in here
Some boot skiing
Some boot skiing
3000 more feet of this to the trail
3000 more feet of this to the trail
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Gimpilator
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PostMon Jul 20, 2020 4:45 pm 
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Fun report.   up.gif   I'm surprised to see so many ascents in that register.  Seems Prophet used to be a somewhat more obscure objective.  But Genesis must still be seldom visited.

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Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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raising3hikers
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PostMon Jul 20, 2020 6:01 pm 
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Permit issues? Ha, that system is flawed right now. Nice job getting up there for those pks and toughing out the heat!

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Eric Eames
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Brushbuffalo
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Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between
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PostTue Jul 21, 2020 7:42 am 
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Jake Robinson wrote:
Starts off pretty open
Starts off pretty open
This, ad nauseam.
This, ad nauseam.

What a contrast.  Doing that climb with heat + mosquitoes shows .....uh...... dedication.

Fun to read the old registers....let's hope the regi-virus doesn't hit there.

Good job, Jake. Did Masayo descend that same punishing way?

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Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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RazzleDazzle420
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PostTue Jul 21, 2020 9:26 am 
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Gimpilator wrote:
Fun report.   up.gif   I'm surprised to see so many ascents in that register.  Seems Prophet used to be a somewhat more obscure objective.  But Genesis must still be seldom visited.

I'm sure it was before websites like this turned most every "more obscure objective" in to a quick google search.
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Gimpilator
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PostTue Jul 21, 2020 10:54 am 
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Your viewing of and response to content on "websites like this" validates it's very existence.  Lurkers who all of a sudden chime in to voice disdain and criticism have absolutely no credence to their negativity whatsoever.

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https://www.youtube.com/c/Zogador
https://www.summitpost.org/users/gimpilator/25744
http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ClimbListC.aspx?cid=2650&sort=elevft&u=ft&j=-1&y=9999

Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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RazzleDazzle420
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PostTue Jul 21, 2020 12:50 pm 
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Can you honestly say this, and social media, hasn't added noticeably more traffic in areas you could once discover yourself browsing maps or hearing quietly from a friend? I didn't think so.
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Gimpilator
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PostTue Jul 21, 2020 1:06 pm 
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Good question.  And yes, I can honestly say this.  These days, roughly 95 percent of my hikes are off-trail.  In WA and elsewhere.  I can honestly say that I don't see anybody else in the wilderness on about 97 percent of my hikes.

As I have said before, anyone that doesn't like crowding should learn to avoid popular trails near mega-city epicenters.  Off-trail exploration possibilities are endless.  If you desire solitude, learn to hike off-trail.

The areas temporarily damaged by social media fads like Facebook/Instagram seem to be a tiny fraction of the available wilderness.  I haven't seen it first hand, but I've heard a lot of people and even friends complaining about that, so I know it's a real thing and I understand the frustration.

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https://www.youtube.com/c/Zogador
https://www.summitpost.org/users/gimpilator/25744
http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ClimbListC.aspx?cid=2650&sort=elevft&u=ft&j=-1&y=9999

Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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Tom
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PostTue Jul 21, 2020 1:12 pm 
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Please note TR comment policy.
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Bluebird
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suffering optional
PostTue Jul 21, 2020 10:13 pm 
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Great photos, I love all the views from this peak. I'm a little sad I couldn't go but that's how it is!
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ozzy
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PostWed Jul 22, 2020 5:51 am 
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Wow!! eek.gif Big views up there man!! Love how these big trips are just so casual for you dood!! lol.gif
Well I think Prophet is going on my ever growing list of hills I need to climb lol!! Thanks for the tr, cheers!

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Milk is for babies. When you grow up you have to drink beer. -Arnold
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carlb328
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PostWed Jul 22, 2020 7:58 am 
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Is that pond in front of Luna near Big Beaver creek? It looks very fishy to me.
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cascadetraverser
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PostThu Jul 23, 2020 6:23 am 
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Nice trip Jake, well done! Got to get up there someday, hopefully without all the bugs....
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Dansjolseth
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PostThu Jul 23, 2020 9:54 pm 
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Brings back some great memories.   Photo from FA.
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Jake Robinson
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PostThu Jul 23, 2020 11:17 pm 
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Dansjolseth wrote:
Brings back some great memories.   Photo from FA.

Wow, thank you for this historic photo, Dan. Very cool to hear from you here. I'm glad your FA register is still in place on No Profit/Jeremiah.

I tried to find a matching photo from Prophet and this is the best I could do:

Prophet summit 7/19/20
Prophet summit 7/19/20
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Genesis-Prophet 7/18-19
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