[raising3hikers]

I went for an aggressive day trip on Saturday, chores and other things had me needing to be home on Sunday. I arrived at the already full Pete Lake TH at 5am and had to park up the road. Crazy how many people got there on Friday or earlier. I was hiking in the slightest light on the easy, flat trail towards the lake. A few people were up but never crossed anyone on the trail. At the PCT junction, I headed North to Lemah meadows where I take the 2nd, non brushy switchback off trail to a log crossing some 1/4 mile away upstream. The skies were mostly high clouds but as soon as I started uphill, the humidity set in and I felt like I was sweating buckets. I lost the path a couple time, usually when I needed to cross a gully to the left, some needless gain and extra backtracking was had but it didn't cost too much time. I reached the 4800" camp and saw a tent was there, I'd have company on the mountain. I filled up on water, there was lots of it flowing. I then had to go up a nasty, dirty, loose slope to gain the ridge. It was probably the worst part of my trip. At the top of the ridge, I could see a couple people high on the glacier slope below U-gap. Also, saw the intimidating Chimney Rock.

Chimney Rock

I went the standard route to gain the glacier that has been told in many other good TR's, so I'll spare the details. The glacier is in fine shape with minimal exposed ice and crevasses. the moat below U-gap is getting big, it was steep and slow going to carefully get onto the rock from it. I scrambled the rock to U-gap and made my way to the Improbable Ledge. I soon ran into the 2 guys I saw from below and passed them along the ledge. I made my way up and down following the easiest terrain I could find. The white rocks went well as well as finding the other key ledges and routes. I was soon at the base of the 1st rock pitch, I dropped some gear and started climbing. Half way up, I decided to downclimb and change into my rock shoes. Since I brought them, I might as well put them on for a little better traction. I then found the slabby pitch and everything is a no fall zone. I tested everything I weighted before committing. The 3rd and final pitch is the toughest. Glad I had my rock shoes on. There is a chockstone just below the summit ridge I had to make my way over. Great but small hand holds around but I got it done. A short walk to the summit and signed into the register. It had taken 7hrs to the summit but I still had to get down.

Chimney Rock register

view towards North Chimney Rock

Lemah, iceburg Lake and Burnt Boot

down to the glacier

I didn't stay too long on the summit as I didn't want to wait for the other group to come all the way up. So, after the 1st rappel and walking to the next rap station, I could see them just about to finish their 1st pitch. So I waited for them to finish and get past the 2nd pitch before continuing to rappel. Nice guys and wished them luck on the rest of their climb. The last rap went well as well as retracing all the steep exposed terrain back to U-Gap. The snow had softened a little but care was still needed to not slip into the moat. After that, it was nice and easy all the way back towards running water again. I was so thirsty and drank a bottle and refilled before continuing all the way back down the climbers path. I found the better way on the way down and barely lost the trail.

lastt look at Chimney Rock

I was motivated to get back to the TH, so I could go into Cle Elum and see my parents before it got too late. Several people on the Pete Lake trail on the way back. The mosquitos were biting every time I had to move to the side but they weren't as bad as they could have been. As others have mentioned, Puzzlr's and Stefans TR's are pretty good for planning this trip. 21.25 miles 6600' elevation gain 13 hrs

[ozzy]

Holy shitballs Batman!! That's quite the solo climb, you're a savage! This is definitely on my list but it will probably be long while lol. Cheers to you man and thanks for the tr!

[neek]

^ what he said

[Mike Collins]

Congratulations on this challenging peak. You and Don B. are the only people I know who have day-climbed Chimney Rock. Is the older register there or just the 2019 one?

[RichP]

Congrats on getting that one under your belt..solo .

[b00]

[rbuzby]

Nice hike! I would have done this years ago, if not for lack of skill and courage.

[Stefan]

Yes, the mosquitos biting you are not a problem. You are moving so fast, I am sure mosquitos splatting on your face is the bigger issue. I would never have done that solo!

[Gimpilator]

Astounding feat! When Fletcher and Jake day-tripped it a couple years ago, I thought it wouldn't be the last time we would see that. But you soloed! Wow. This remains the most exposed peak and technical route I've done. Amazing, Eric.

[Brushbuffalo]

[Fletcher]

Excellent solo feat!