Forum Index > Trip Reports > Six Ridge Trail and Mt Olson, ONP, Sept 1-4, 2017
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meck
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PostMon Sep 04, 2017 5:34 pm 
Six Ridge Trail (from Staircase to Lake Sundown), side trip to Success Basin and Mt Olson, ONP, Sept 1-4 2017, solo Random stats/counts - Number of post PCT'ers given a hitch: 1 Number of Elk seen: 1 Number of Bears spotted: 4 Number of other backpackers with those trendy-retro "trucker" style baseball caps (Patagonia or otherwise): 0 (must only be popular with the ladies hiking on the north end of the park I guess) Most number of liters of water consumed in a day: 7.75 Number of camp groups with illegal campfires: 1 (thankfully only 1!) Number of other backpackers encountered on this trail/area: 7 Number of swims: 3 (well only 2 and 1 soak due to shallow water level, was kind of shivering chilly once the sun began setting!) Weekend Rating: 10 out of 10 I'm working on visiting all of the trails in ONP and ONF. Aside from the heat, the weather looked good to try and visit Six Ridge Trail. Previous TRs aren't lying when they say the Six Ridge trail has lots of ups and downs... in the heat it is brutal. Also, from the N. fork of the Skokomish River to Camp Belview, it is a completely dry trail this time of year. A lot of folks hike this trail as part of a loop. I would recommend at least two days to get from Graves Creek TH to Staircase along this trail unless you are traveling light and fast, or already know the trail route really well (and forget it in the snow or by headlamp, that would be asking for trouble...). Day 1: I got a late start from Staircase (1345), with a goal of reaching Camp Belview on the Six Ridge trail. I'd picked up a hitch hiker a few miles from Staircase, who happened to be from Germany and had completed the PCT a week or two earlier, and he wanted to complete an ONP crossing so I gave him a lift (I don't normally pick up hitch hikers, but may make exceptions for people who obviously look like hikers). I hope he was able to enjoy the park. The "Skok highway" trail miles went smoothly, if warm. I headed across the bridge just beyond Big Log camp, and turned left instead of the usual right. After topping off on water at Seven Stream, I began the switchbacks up Six Ridge around 1630. Some berries were available on the way up, though many were past prime, and the trail grade undulated up and down several times on the ridge through wooded and open areas. Some fall color was already showing. As with other ONP/ONF trails along ridges, this one occasionally passed up and over large rock protuberances, and weaved down into gullies between faults in the upended rock layers making up the ridges. There were about three lingering snow patches tucked into the rocky gullies and nooks about 1/4 before the Success-Belview trail junction. I reached the Success basin trail junction (arrived ~2000), where I then headed down to Camp Belview for the night. I came across an elk along here, but it fled before I could get a picture (how do they move so fast through the cedar brush?). I'd researched previous TRs before going here and was glad to have done so. boomheist's TR had mentioned being able to see Belview from the Success basin way trail on the ridge above; this was helpful to know since it meant that the camp was probably on the downslope side of any meadows, and obviously clear of trees in the direction of the ridge. I got off trail accidentally on the way down (did not completely cross the first meadow to its lower edge, instead angled across it), and wandered around in a circle briefly before finding the camp at ~2020. I set camp, ate dinner and got to sleep.
cedar tree conjoined twins, see trekking poles for scale
cedar tree conjoined twins, see trekking poles for scale
the Six Ridge trail sign.  Bones, how appropriate.
the Six Ridge trail sign. Bones, how appropriate.
typical trail up
typical trail up
more typical trail up
more typical trail up
view down towards Lake Cushman.
view down towards Lake Cushman.
old tree blaze?
old tree blaze?
huckleberry plants
huckleberry plants
looks like fall colors already showing up along the ridge line
looks like fall colors already showing up along the ridge line
nearing sunset, Rainier in the background, Lk Cushman in the fore ground
nearing sunset, Rainier in the background, Lk Cushman in the fore ground
Sawtooth Ridge, Mt Cruiser highpoint
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Sawtooth Ridge, Mt Cruiser highpoint
snowpatch along the ridge route
snowpatch along the ridge route
made it to Camp Belview just before dark!
made it to Camp Belview just before dark!
Day 2: Today I planned to hike the rest of the Six Ridge trail to Lake Sundown, then skedaddle over to Success Creek Basin via the abandoned trail. It was much easier to cover the trail miles with only a 3-liter camel back and small pack. Although this portion of the trail stays off the ridgeline, it still has a fair number of up and down portions. I left camp at 0750, and the morning was already warmer than I'd hoped. I met two backpackers who were heading back to Staircase as part of a loop; they gave me some good route info to find my way to Six Ridge Pass, and I was relieved to hear that the trail down to Lake Sundown was well maintained and easy to follow. This whole trail is NOT one you would want to try and negotiate in the dark by headlamp, as the multiple game trails, low or toppled cairns, and thick grass (showing very little evidence of tread wear) could easily send you off route in several locations.
meadow just upslope from Belview site (so does that make it Sammamish or Kirkland?)
meadow just upslope from Belview site (so does that make it Sammamish or Kirkland?)
portion of the meadow to the east (creek crosses through it)
portion of the meadow to the east (creek crosses through it)
I literally turned around and picked these fresh huckleberries for my oatmeal without even getting up from where I was sitting.
I literally turned around and picked these fresh huckleberries for my oatmeal without even getting up from where I was sitting.
some trees have the orange markers, though most of the markers are rust color, not the orange...
some trees have the orange markers, though most of the markers are rust color, not the orange...
typical route through brush and open forest (or meadows)
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typical route through brush and open forest (or meadows)
some larger blowdowns still present, though not bad at all really
some larger blowdowns still present, though not bad at all really
meadow along the route, water pothole below in meadow
meadow along the route, water pothole below in meadow
what goes up must go back down, again.
what goes up must go back down, again.
...and back up, again.
1 label
...and back up, again.
some trail is visible in the upper part of the meadow
some trail is visible in the upper part of the meadow
looking back down the six stream drainage
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looking back down the six stream drainage
I reached Six-Ridge pass at 1000 and was down to the lake by 1040, slowed by several berry snacking stops. The lake is pleasant, warm, and occupied by fish. I certainly hope everyone camping here knows how to properly dig a cathole since the overall basin is very small, not a whole lot of directions to go do one's business in the immediate vicinity of the camp sites (my way of saying, the water is probably very dirty, don't even attempt to drink it without water treatment/filtering). There was only one tiny snow patch still supplying any water to the lake from the south end bowl. I left at ~1130 and was back to the pass by 1210, then Camp Belview by 1355. The other camp along this route, near a water body named after a McDonald's Thanksgiving Day condiment, seemed nice but I could not readily see any pre-established campsites, only one spot atop a flattish boulder that would not really work if your tent required staking.
trail down the Sundown Lk
trail down the Sundown Lk
views over to MtOly from the trail
views over to MtOly from the trail
I packed up my camp, leaving Belview at 1445, and headed back to the Success Basin trail jct. along the main Six Ridge trail above, and then along the old trail. The abandoned trail was well described in other TRs, and you can even see a large portion of it just before it enters the Success Creek upper basin, from the snow patch basin below the 4900' "notch" pass. The initial part of the trail more or less follows the ridgeline occasionally swapping from top-to-north side-to gully. I scared at least one black bear into thicker brush along here. It was still a pretty brutal slog though on a warm day, and I still managed to get off route in two spots after going down the other side of the notch, needlessly wasting some 45 minutes (if I'd only followed the trail it's actually OK'ish aside from the up-down along the ridge). Spotted another bear along here too, busy attending to its sustenance needs. I will say this, don't underestimate the amount of time it will take to hike this section, and good footwear is a must (e.g. good edging capability) to safely hike this with a heavy pack as the trail is almost non-existent in a few steep spots.
all packed up, ready to leave camp.
all packed up, ready to leave camp.
down the scree field towards the ridge.
4 labels
down the scree field towards the ridge.
The basin is nice, much like other Oly basins, but this one obviously had experienced a burn within the last couple of years, with several knobs with blackened, dead tree stands, and scorched hillsides (though some low brush growth starts (1/2-2 inches high were coming back!). It was kind of sad to see where some of the thin topsoil, often less than three inches thick, was being washed away... there goes a thousand year's worth of soil development! It was hard to find any pre-established camp spots, so I picked a spot where I thought I would do the least amount of plant crushing harm to set up my tent (which requires staking) around 1755. I checked out the local water feature, again warm and not particularly clean looking (saw a squad of ducks in the morning on it), and then made dinner. I enjoyed a very pleasant sunset, bright moon-rise, and pleasant breeze all night.
water source
water source
Day 3: Today was the day to attempt nearby Mt. Olson. There was supposedly and old abandoned trail that led up to the pass immediately east of the summit from the Success basin, and the OMCG route description was pretty straight forward (traverse west upwardly, go up to saddle/pass, climb ENE ridge). I left camp around 0800 and began following portions of the old trail. As usual I got off this trail, and then just mainly stuck to game trails, crossing a nice little meadow bench area with a few water potholes (most pretty dry now), before entering the green/rocky chute that went up to the pass. I reached the very pleasant shallow bowl beneath the pass (small snow patch still lingering), and then the pass, arriving at ~0920. The old trail was easy to discern at this point, and it proceeded over the pass into the basin below (looked well-used by critters).
Mt Olson in the morning light
Mt Olson in the morning light
start of the old route.
start of the old route.
across a few steep clearings an into steep open forest along the old trail
across a few steep clearings an into steep open forest along the old trail
path through along the "bench"
path through along the "bench"
the actual old trail is above by ~150-200'
the actual old trail is above by ~150-200'
across one more clearing
across one more clearing
looking back south across the basin
looking back south across the basin
into the trees once more...
into the trees once more...
... to a small clearing before....
... to a small clearing before....
...entering the chute that leads up to the pass (just like the OMCG describes).
...entering the chute that leads up to the pass (just like the OMCG describes).
looking back down the chute before entering a brief line of trees...
looking back down the chute before entering a brief line of trees...
... that were at the bottom edge of the bowl below the pass.
... that were at the bottom edge of the bowl below the pass.
looking back down the bowl, the old trail comes up from the left side of the photo
looking back down the bowl, the old trail comes up from the left side of the photo
at the pass east of Mt Olson
at the pass east of Mt Olson
From the pass it was a pretty straight forward scramble up steep meadow (~55-60 degrees in places) on the SE facing slope, using all fours in several spots and climbing through the tree patches here and there. The "clumpy" nature of the plant growth made it a lot like a really steep staircase in places (though if you began tumbling you would be in big trouble!). Towards the top crown of the Mt Olson, the grade lessens and you make a slight curve around the NE-N side on a wide heather bench, to the north facing rocky slope (which also looked pretty climbable from the basin below). I saw another black bear here, playing on a very small snow patch. It was clawing at the snow, digging into, laying out on it, and eating it; it looked to be quite enjoying itself and I felt bad about startling it away (I was able to get about 30 seconds of video before it noticed me and took off). What a privilege to get to see this bear!
down the NE side of the pass
down the NE side of the pass
began heading up this slope
began heading up this slope
the old trail down into the basin
the old trail down into the basin
here I go heading on up over step-like meadow vegetation, there was some evidence of a critter trail.
here I go heading on up over step-like meadow vegetation, there was some evidence of a critter trail.
its kind of steep, don't tumble 'cause you won't stop until you hit the bottom... or a tree
its kind of steep, don't tumble 'cause you won't stop until you hit the bottom... or a tree
this might be why the OMCG rates its a class 3 rather than 2...
this might be why the OMCG rates its a class 3 rather than 2...
almost there....
almost there....
curve around this slope on an easy bench...
curve around this slope on an easy bench...
... and kapow!, I'm there!
... and kapow!, I'm there!
what the heck... of all the places to see a teddy bear... on top of a low peak is one of the last...oh now I get it...
what the heck... of all the places to see a teddy bear... on top of a low peak is one of the last...oh now I get it...
...just chillin' out!
...just chillin' out!
I see you! You see me too!
I see you! You see me too!
As expected, the summit of Mt Olson (5289') offered great views in all directions. I spent about an hour snapping photos, drying out the soggy registers pages (I saved your entry Khaki Black!), and snacking. One thing I love about Oly peaks is that they all sort of pop-up just high enough so that you can see dozens of them from any one summit. I headed down at 1100 and was back to camp by 1220, via the much better graded old trail that I was able to follow much further.
Quinault River valley in the distance
Quinault River valley in the distance
Burnt knob back in the basin
1 label
Burnt knob back in the basin
Mt Rainier, top half cut off (the smoke hid it effectively from my view)
Mt Rainier, top half cut off (the smoke hid it effectively from my view)
Success basin, with N. Fk Skok drainage beyond.
Success basin, with N. Fk Skok drainage beyond.
Mt Anderson
Mt Anderson
Anderson and Duckabush(?)
4 labels
Anderson and Duckabush(?)
another geological survey marker
another geological survey marker
bear's marks on the snow patch
bear's marks on the snow patch
Khaki Black's Mtn Top Lean!
Khaki Black's Mtn Top Lean!
back down the steep meadow slope (this would suck when wet!!)
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back down the steep meadow slope (this would suck when wet!!)
back at the basin!
1 label
back at the basin!
At this point I was a little concerned about finding my way back out of the Success basin via the abandoned trail since I'd slipped, slid, and veggie belayed my way in when I got off trail coming in the day before. I decided to go scout out the east edge/ridge of the basin to see if I could see it. On my way up I met two other backpackers, whose tracks I'd seen on the way in (but could not figure out where they were) as they were heading out. It was great to meet them (thanks Kevin!) as they told me exactly where to look for the old trail, which saved me time, and I was able to share with them how to get to the pass next to Olson; they had a pretty good adventure planned. I explored the upper basin, found the trail where they said it would be, then went back to camp to pack up.
other pass at NW corner of basin
other pass at NW corner of basin
well used critter trail down...so I followed it to the knob
1 label
well used critter trail down...so I followed it to the knob
looking back towards that pass.....
looking back towards that pass.....
... and then looking down the steep basin on the other side (it must be passable.... but I did not go any further to see how steep it got)
... and then looking down the steep basin on the other side (it must be passable.... but I did not go any further to see how steep it got)
heading back down into the basin to find the actual trail entry into the basin on the east edge...
1 label
heading back down into the basin to find the actual trail entry into the basin on the east edge...
.. hooray! This should be a much more straight forward exit!
.. hooray! This should be a much more straight forward exit!
the burnt knob
2 labels
the burnt knob
exploring the burnt knob before packing up and heading out
exploring the burnt knob before packing up and heading out
spotted another bear in the meadows below
spotted another bear in the meadows below
By the time I was ready to go, ~1525, it was warm, like really warm! I filled up all my water (~4.5 liters) and decided that if I could make it back to trail junction by 1750'ish, I would try to push on back to the Skokomish, if not I'd go back to Belview for the night and refill on water. The slog back out and over "The Notch" was brutal in the afternoon sun (especially the switchbacks up the scree bowl on the W side of the notch), but I made it back to the trail jct. by 1735. I was completely soaked in sweat. I had roughly 3 hours of visibility left so I decided to go for it and head back to the Skokomish river, about 5.6 miles. There is a certain niceness to having a clear goal and focus (get down off this ridge and back to more water!!!) to motivate one to move deliberately and with purpose. I'd quickly gone through 3 liters of water (6.5 total for the day at this point) and was down to my last 1.5. The ups and downs were slightly better as the overall trend was down, and the lower angle sun made for slightly cooler conditions.
time to power on out of this basin and head for the Skok!
time to power on out of this basin and head for the Skok!
looking back north on the old trail just covered
looking back north on the old trail just covered
the trail goes past this rock on its east side
the trail goes past this rock on its east side
looking back down towards Belview Camp after passing back over the notch
looking back down towards Belview Camp after passing back over the notch
there is "eastside-west, misspelled" camp
there is "eastside-west, misspelled" camp
back at the trail junction, only 5.6 miles and 2:20 of daylight to go!
back at the trail junction, only 5.6 miles and 2:20 of daylight to go!
looks a lot like fall already up here
looks a lot like fall already up here
I remember this snow patch (something like 15-20 degrees cooler down there and in the next snow pit over!)
back down towards Lk Cushman
back down towards Lk Cushman
some of those telegraph line insulators
some of those telegraph line insulators
Mt Hopper to the north
Mt Hopper to the north
When I hit the switch backs, I began counting. The total came out to around 65 or so. I passed three other backpackers on their way down; they'd had a hot rough day as well and were looking forward to getting back to convenient water sources. I reached the bottom around 2010, the sign there provided with appropriate decorations for the trail conditions back up the ridge, and quickly made my way back across Seven Stream and set up camp. A nearby backpacking pair on the south side of Seven Stream had a campfire going, I let them know a burn ban was in effect, but I don't know if they ended up extinguishing that night or not.
back at the river!
back at the river!
Day 4: Got up broke camp, and quickly made my way back to the Staircase TH before it got too warm. As you can imagine, by 1000 both parking lots were almost full, and a steady stream of vehicles were on their way in from 101, I was glad to be heading out! Overall, a fun trip in the Olys on an interesting section of trail.

*Just say NO to Rent-Seeking, don't give up the concept of "ownership"*
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RichP
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PostMon Sep 04, 2017 5:45 pm 
Sounds like a great trip. I'm looking forward to hiking in this area someday.

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jask
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PostTue Sep 05, 2017 6:22 am 
Sounds like you had a great adventure in an area I thought was seldom visited (have been that way on 3 different occasions and never met anyone). On one of those trips it was very hot like what you experienced. We crept into one of the snow-filled potholes and just laid there.

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cascadetraverser
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PostTue Sep 05, 2017 8:44 am 
Meck: That`s a cool place; my wife and I looped from the Upper south Fork Skok to the North Fork last year and really enjoyed it. Passed by the Mt. Olsen jx and thought about a day trip...??Wasn`t meant to be but maybe next time. That shot of the bear is amazing!

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PostTue Sep 05, 2017 9:27 am 
Great trip report. Your speed up Six Ridge to Belview from Staircase makes me understand how slow (and old) I am, because when I last went there several years ago, also on a killiingly hot day, I only made it to the breakout to meadows above the endless up and down and camped by some lingering snow. I am assuming by your description you found a way trail directly from above McGreavy Lakes over to Lake Success as well? It seemed to me the time I got to the Lake (after at least four damn tries over the years) that you could make that transit..... Thanks for the report.

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PostTue Sep 05, 2017 10:34 am 
up.gif That bear playing on the snow is fantastic!

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PostTue Sep 05, 2017 11:12 am 
Very nice trip report. Hope to make it out there someday. FYI, WTA works on Six Ridge every year to clear the blowdowns. One of these days I'll actually go on that logout.

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PostTue Sep 05, 2017 11:28 am 
Tough route in the hottest, driest week of the year! (Others be undaunted, as its shorter from Wynoochee Pass and longer but easier with available water up S Fk Skok or Graves Cr.) Thanks for sharing the unique views from Mt. Olson, Meck! I added some labels on the ridge dividing O'Neil Cr & N Fk Skok; hope others might check or correct them. Chris Morganroth recounts the fascinating story of blazing Six Ridge and Graves Creek Trails in 1907 in Footprints in the Olympics chapter 24.

"of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt" - John Muir "the wild is not the opposite of cultivated. It is the opposite of the captivated” - Vandana Shiva
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meck
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PostTue Sep 05, 2017 8:00 pm 
More pictures added. Thanks all for giving it a read and commenting. The bear was an absolute surprise, and really made my entire day! As I've spent more time hiking in the Olys I've come to appreciate watching wildlife a lot more. The mountain views are great and will always be there, but getting to watch the critters go about their lives, as a patient quiet observer, is what makes visiting the wilderness a unique experience to me and differentiates it from just another "exercise activity". I failed to get any pictures on the way up the Skok, but I also got to observe a mother grouse call to here new grouse chicks (looked like smaller versions of the mother) as I approached on the trail. I paused dead still for about five minutes, 10 feet away from them, as the mother called to each. All five or six of them cautiously crossed the trail, and made their way upslope towards their mom, calling to her as they went. I'd never seen that before. It was very peaceful and calming to watch (at least for me, maybe not for the mother grouse) @ RodF, thanks for adding those labels, please add more if you know them. I was not quite sure, from the angle, which peak was O'Neil and which was Mt. Duck. If I can get the local Kitsap Cty. library to get the book, maybe I can check that out (was one of the "7 Lakes" named after him?) @ bertman: I remembered reading in some of the older TRs about the WTA log-outs. Their member's work along that trail was awesome!!! There were very almost no "tough" blowdowns along the entire length, and the cut logs were about the best route markers you could ask for in the wooded sections. I can see how this trail would virtually disappear in a few seasons without their continued effort. @boomheist: I pretty much stuck to the trail, or abandoned trail the entire time (the route you took). Your TR and the others helped me a lot in figuring out how much time to allow. You weren't kidding about getting over the notch and down to the basin, that was a workout! Larry mentioned hiking over the ridge from McGravey to the Success basin, but on my time schedule I didn't think I could risk trying it so I stuck to the (abandoned)trails, except when I accidentally got off route (some of the spills I took kinda hurt!). I kind of expected to see at least one or two folks along the route given the calendar date and weather, but was surprised to see 7 (especially the others in the basin).

*Just say NO to Rent-Seeking, don't give up the concept of "ownership"*
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PostThu Sep 07, 2017 1:09 am 
pretty fabulous. up.gif

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostThu Sep 07, 2017 11:43 am 
I claim to be completely wrong. It has been decades since I've been out on Six Ridge. While I am a big supporter of WTA, and am a member, I've been critical of repeated BCRT's on Six Ridge. My concern was that they'd move this way trail from 'near disappeared' to an established, regular hiker trail. It's clear from this report that improvements have not been excessive. Some route finding is still needed. Mea culpa. PS Great trip.

Keep Calm and Carry On? Heck No. Stay Excited and Get Outside!
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PostThu Sep 07, 2017 12:54 pm 
I consider myself pretty good at getting around off trail and getting in/out of the McGreavy Lakes took a fair bit of work. It is definately a remote, difficult route requiring route finding.

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RodF
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PostThu Sep 07, 2017 3:30 pm 
Appreciate the photos you added that graphically describe the route, meck! Thank you! What is "'eastside-west, misspelled' camp"? And who misspelled it?
meck wrote:
(was one of the "7 Lakes" named after him [Morganroth]?)
Oh, yes, Morganroth's favorite place in the Olympics. See the fascinating stories of how it may've been named on page 87 of Smitty Parratt's "Gods and Goblins". The blaze you photographed may be the 1930s fire reporting telephone box near Six Ridge Point 4126, described by Eric Wilhite at the bottom of his Bellview AWS Shelter page. It appears Frederic Church of the O'Neil expedition named Mt. Olson "Mt. raven", sighting it due north when on "Mt. Adelaide", the high point 5122 on "Deer Ridge" (Six Ridge), on Monday, Aug. 18, 1890. (Carsten Lien, "Exploring the Olympic Mountains", page 297).

"of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt" - John Muir "the wild is not the opposite of cultivated. It is the opposite of the captivated” - Vandana Shiva
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PostThu Sep 14, 2017 2:36 pm 
???? Is the Five ridge trail still findable ? Did that about 22 yrs ago to the Oly Park Wonder Lakes. At 82, can't remember many details about the trip.

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PostThu Sep 14, 2017 3:33 pm 
Something I've always wanted to do ... great reporting and pix ... it looks as tough as I thought it would be even w/o the snow!

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Six Ridge Trail and Mt Olson, ONP, Sept 1-4, 2017
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