Forum Index > Trip Reports > Devil's Peak 6-28-16
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Fletcher
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Fletcher
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PostThu Jun 30, 2016 1:32 pm 
Reed, John and I climbed Devil's on Tuesday; the worst bushwhack in living memory. So bad, in fact, that if we hadn't underestimated it, we probably would have chosen a different peak to climb. Reed and I had to hike into McCallister Camp on Thunder Creek Tuesday evening, so we needed a "quick and easy" morning objective beforehand. Devil's seemed pretty easy, with a fun summit block, so we decided on that. John met up with us on the Mtn Loop Monday night, and we were hiking up the closed Coal Creek Road at 5:30. We followed the road for a few miles until pink flagging lead us off the road and up the left side of the creek draining Devil's Lake. The route was fairly easy to follow and the forest was beautiful.
Big Four and Hall from Coal Creek Road
Big Four and Hall from Coal Creek Road
forest scrambling
forest scrambling
waterfall
waterfall
The route eventually comes out in the basin below Devil's Peak and Lake and abruptly ends. There is no route that we could find through the impenetrable brush wall that guards you from Devil's summit block 1600 feet above. We basically just dove in head first and began making our way (very, very slowly) upward. This was the worst and most sustained brush I have ever encountered, horrible. So thick you can't see anything more than a few feet above or below you. Small cliff bands everywhere to negotiate, places where you must make class 5 moves up shrubby trees. At one point a horse fly came along and bit me 3 times within about 20 seconds, causing me to panic and lose my cool briefly. We probably would have turned around, if we hadn't thought that continuing up would be easier. Eventually, around 4600 ft, we came out of it into more open terrain. All were relieved.
the summit block above, with impenetrable brush wall in the foreground
the summit block above, with impenetrable brush wall in the foreground
class 5 moves over shrubby trees, much worse than it looks
class 5 moves over shrubby trees, much worse than it looks
brush free with the summit ahead!
brush free with the summit ahead!
We worked our way up to the obvious col just south of the summit block and dropped some gear. As we were "exploring the route" we accidentally topped out on the very short crux and found ourselves at the exposed ledge. The ledge was really easy and we quickly found ourselves on the spacious summit. We had a little bit of pro with us, but it only served as weight training.
summit
summit
Reed and John on the crux, beginning of the ledge is just over Reed's head
Reed and John on the crux, beginning of the ledge is just over Reed's head
looking back across the ledge
looking back across the ledge
It was a beautiful day and the views were grand.
Three Fingers and Whitehorse
Three Fingers and Whitehorse
Jumbo and Baker
Jumbo and Baker
Glacier
Glacier
Monte Christos
Monte Christos
We spent 20 minutes on the summit, then began our descent. We rapped off of 2 30ms at the well established anchor halfway across the ledge. Reed's first alpine rappel!
Reed rapelling
Reed rapelling
John rapelling
John rapelling
Back at the col, we decided to work our way down the ridge toward Devil's Thumb to try to find an easier way down into the basin. We didn't quite make it to the low point between the two peaks before dropping down off the ridge. Lots of class 3 and a little class 4 down climbing on mossy rock, and just a little brush later, we were having a snack at Devil's Lake.
looking back
looking back
John descends with Devils Thumb
John descends with Devils Thumb
descending fun with poor focus
descending fun with poor focus
descending fun
descending fun
we came down that
we came down that
Devils Lake
Devils Lake
The hike out from the lake was trivial compared to what we had endured earlier in the day. We made it back to the car at 3:40, making it just over a 10 hour day. John drove back to Seattle and Reed and I headed into Darrington to restock on provisions and head into NCNP.

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puzzlr
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puzzlr
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PostThu Jun 30, 2016 7:37 pm 
The "Devil" part of the name might have been a clue. I've wanted to do this too, but it seems like ideal conditions (snow over brush, clear dry rock) are hard to get.

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Mike Collins
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Mike Collins
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PostThu Jun 30, 2016 8:09 pm 
When I climbed Devils Peak it was mid-April and don't remember the brush being bad. In fact we added Devil's Thumb to the day making it a 2-fer. There must have been snowpack helping us during the early season outing as our car-to-car time was 12 hrs.

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Schroder
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PostFri Jul 01, 2016 10:17 am 
This is a nice winter climb. Back when I first did it in the 60's we could drive that road bed almost to the basin & it was about a 2 hour climb.

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olderthanIusedtobe
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PostFri Jul 01, 2016 11:51 am 
Yeah I did that one either late winter or early spring, route was snow covered, no brush to contend with. Definitely the way to do it, sounds like.

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jcocci
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PostFri Jul 01, 2016 2:58 pm 
Yeah we definitely hit it too late. Oh well. Was definitely some Type 2 fun. Here's a few more photos.
Fletcher wondering WTF!
Fletcher wondering WTF!
Don't let the smiles fool you.
Don't let the smiles fool you.
Fletcher getting onto the ledge.
Fletcher getting onto the ledge.
The bushwhacking pay off.
The bushwhacking pay off.
Some of the decent.
Some of the decent.

Chief Joseph
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Chief Joseph
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Chief Joseph
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PostFri Jul 01, 2016 9:15 pm 
Finally, a photo of Devils Lake! up.gif Most unimpressive I might add..
Devils Lake
Devils Lake

Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
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Notgood27
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Notgood27
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PostThu Jun 11, 2020 8:23 pm 
I am adding the devil’s lake hike to my list. Let the bushwhacking begin. Though the lake doesn’t look amazing, it looks like a fun challenge.

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Notgood27
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PostFri Jun 12, 2020 9:10 am 
It will be worse, considering I can’t do it until July. Hello Devils Club protecting Devils Lake. I’ll make my kid lead the way.

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Chief Joseph
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Chief Joseph
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PostFri Jun 12, 2020 11:08 am 
So they accessed it via coal lake road, I thought the “normal” approach was off Deer Creek road? I suppose either will work, not sure which is best.

Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
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Notgood27
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Notgood27
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PostFri Jun 12, 2020 11:26 am 
I have seen some GPS routes and guidebooks that show you follow the overgrown road, and when it ends you basically follow the creek to the waterfall and climb left. We’ll see how possible it is in a few weeks.

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Riverside Laker
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PostFri Jun 12, 2020 12:16 pm 
See if you can find the trail and the mine adit. If you get to the adit, back up a bit, go climbers left and it's not terrible up to the lake area.

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Notgood27
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PostFri Jun 12, 2020 1:00 pm 
Digging through google earth to try to find the Adit, I think I have the general range based off a map I’m looking at. My assumption it is on the left of the creek a little past the first major bend in the creek. For the trail, I believe it is deer creek road to double eagle road, to following coal creek up. (Joseph)

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Riverside Laker
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PostFri Jun 12, 2020 3:12 pm 
I don't mind giving this away, since hardly anyone would go there. Boealps used to go up there for their field trip every spring -- wonder if they still do? This info is twenty years of brush ago, the road was relatively easy to walk, so this is way out of date. Flag is surely gone:
Quote:
Getting there:Take Deer Creek Road about a mile to 1968'. Trail report: Walk the abandoned logging road to the right (shown on the USGS Silverton 7.5' map). This road is in good shape for walking, but not easily bike ridden due to many berms. The road switchbacks three times. Continue on the road to about 2940' (2.4 miles). A berm blocks the road, where beyond the road is very overgrown. Look for an overgrown road to the right marked with a flag. Follow this road to a stream crossing at 3200', where a trail continues on the opposite side. This trail can be difficult to follow but continues up to the Double Eagles mine and a nice waterfall at 3650'. For more great scenery rarely visited, go away from the mine around the cliffs and some brush to more open forest, heading up to Devil's Lake. Climbers and High Lakers are probably the only people who enjoy the views of Devil's Lake, which has a couple nice campsites.
See also NWhikers

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Notgood27
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PostFri Jun 12, 2020 3:37 pm 
I can’t imagine to many people want to bushwhack when the lake is not impressive. I personally want to do it because it is challenging and my kid and I will have fun searching around. Rumor is 2 adit, 1 by the waterfall and who knows where the 2nd is. Finding the 2nd one is the goal for us.

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