Forum Index > Trip Reports > Bonanza, Martin, & Copper Peaks, 08/25-27/2020
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Alden Ryno
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Location: Issaquah, WA
Alden Ryno
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PostSat Aug 29, 2020 5:06 pm 
Bonanza, Martin, & Copper Peaks 08/24-27/2020 (~50 hours, wild in retrospect) 55 miles, 17,000' gain (22 miles, 2,100' on bike)
The boat puttered away. On the nearly full boat, I was the only one to get off at Lucerne. I was the only at the dock; no people, no vehicles, just an empty parking lot. Once off the pontoon, I hopped onto my hike a peddled away. The 11 mile, 2,100' gain bike ride from Lucerne to Holden took just under 2.5 hours. The first two miles absolutely sucked and about a third of that was walked. Eventually, the road leveled and the riding was manageable with my pack, extra lunch box (food and clothes), and bike repair gear. The Holden closure has visitors bypass the village on the Railroad Creek Trail, which is more of a gravel road, thankfully. I reached my jumping off point soon thereafter, stowed my bike, and began walking to Holden Pass.
The trail to Holden Lake is excellent. As I passed the lake, I took advantage of the composting toilet. Gotta add that detail. There is a trail practically the entire way to Holden Pass, though there seems to be an unavoidable albeit short section of brush (200-300 horizontal feet) with path underfoot. Stay to the far right on the way in (nearest the steep valley walls) and the brush should be minimized for much of the route.
Hard to determine my route from below... Gotta climb Martin for a better visual.
Hard to determine my route from below... Gotta climb Martin for a better visual.
I filled up all my water vessels (4 liters) about 6 minutes below Holden Pass when the trail makes a hard right to the pass. I found a semi-flat spot just above the pass and made up a day pack.
Martin. Worst part was undulating terrain at the beginning
Martin. Worst part was undulating terrain at the beginning
It was about 1730 when I took off for Martin, reaching the summit mere minutes before sunrise (~1930). I spent little time before making my descent. Darkness encroached and I wanted get as far as possible down the technical terrain with the remaining daylight. I eventually made it back to camp at 2230 with an added 20 minute detour for more water. Martin is entirely dry this time of year, as is Holden Pass.
Few parties this year on Martin.
Few parties this year on Martin.
In the morning, I waited until there was enough light as I didn't want to get on the Glacier in the dark (and I just wanted extra rest). On the move just before 6am. I had scouted (from Martin) a possible snow finger that bypassed the crevasses and care ice on the lower parts of the glacier, though I wasn't sure if I could get to it. I took an ascending ramp above the waterfall Ledges and encountered terrain that went well. It was wet but the other option was as well.
My higher (I think) waterfall ledges
My higher (I think) waterfall ledges
I wasn't sure where it would pop me out adjacent to the glacier, but it was higher than the standard route. I did pass a single rap sling (two pitons, carbines, and sling) on this route. The gear looked older yet in good condition.
Sunrise while on the ledges
Sunrise while on the ledges
I kept going up, about 200' above the standard route, and I walked right up to the snow finger I had seen the night before! Beautiful. This is where I donned crampons and swapped a pole for an ice tool. I walk onto the glacier passing crevasses here and there.
I ascended as far right as posibble and as steeply as possible to get to the upper and flatter parts of the glacier. An added ebenfit was that this was still in the shade.
Upper Glacier
Upper Glacier
I crossed the upper glacier with ease, skirting a few big cracks and getting closer to inspect them. They were DEEP.
A bigger crack, not the largest
A bigger crack, not the largest
where snow meets rock
where snow meets rock
Steepness
Steepness
I made it to the corkscrew portion and had a few more crevasses to skirt, though none were ever too close for comfort nor did it seem like any section was unstable (or would be in the near future).
Transition
Transition
I easily transitioned to rock around, 8700' at 0750 and clamored up the mostly excellent rock, following the evident natural lines of the rock to be on the summit at 0820. I spent an hour on the summit, knowing my destination for the day wasn't too terribly far off.
Looking down on the first half of the rock
Looking down on the first half of the rock
Company Creek Valley
Company Creek Valley
Isella Glacier, Lyman Lakes, and the best damn section of wilderness
Isella Glacier, Lyman Lakes, and the best damn section of wilderness
Ammo cans and short shorts. Vietnam all over again
Ammo cans and short shorts. Vietnam all over again
Pika on the summit. Taken because Rikki has remared if I don't include a summit shot with my plush pal
Pika on the summit. Taken because Rikki has remared if I don't include a summit shot with my plush pal
I retraced my steps to be back at my camp around 1145. I packed up in a shady spot and took my time. What a gorgeous area. The waterfalls dropping off the Mary Green are spectacular.
The trail was easy on the way out to my bike. I ate some food, pumped up the back tire, and set off for the Copper Basin Trailhead, which I reached a little after 1600. I offloaded extra food, clothes, and my spare trailrunners (I bring two pairs) to reduce my weight.
Bonanza and mine remediation. I spoke to a USFS Ranger on the way in Tuesday about the remediation for a bit (I work at another remediation site, so I was fascinated).
Bonanza and mine remediation. I spoke to a USFS Ranger on the way in Tuesday about the remediation for a bit (I work at another remediation site, so I was fascinated).
To replace the rear tube on my bike or not? I figured that there was no way I'd make it back to bike to get to Lucerne before the boat tomorrow, so I left the bad tube in and saved time in the "now." It held air for a while but would slowly deflate over time, seemingly independent of use. The trail to Copper Basin gains relatively evenly and steeply. Around 1800, I popped out into Copper Basin. Wow, what a sight! I checked my GPS and I had way overshot my turnoff... Whoops.
Copper Basin proper is wroth the detour
Copper Basin proper is wroth the detour
I backtracked and skirted down to Copper Creek and set up a bivy in a relatively flat, open spot on the west side of the creek. The time was 1830. I didn't want to eat quite yet and actually fell asleep until nearly 2000 when I awoke to eat instant potatoes, ramen, and a protein bar. My alarm was set for 0323, my standard alarm during the week. I have another alarm for 0319 but yearned for an extra 4 minutes of sleep... There was frost on the brush around me. Getting colder.
Sparse sunlight breaching the horizon to my back, about 45 minutes from camp (0530)
Sparse sunlight breaching the horizon to my back, about 45 minutes from camp (0530)
I was on the move at 0445 and made it through burn and brush with mostly ease. The terrain gains pretty hard until reaching the glacier moraine, then adopts the distinctive step-like function of some moraines. I only stepped onto the hard ice for a couple hundred feet of gain and made a hard right then ascended to a notch in the ridge. I did the same, aiming for a notch in the ridge, in the adjacent high basin. Though I gained the ridge at the far end of this one. With only about 600 feet to go, it was smooth sailing. However, the ridge is jagged and it actually seemed best to stay just to the left (east) of the ridge proper.
There was actually a lot of running water from camp (5,400':) until ~8,000'
There was actually a lot of running water from camp (5,400') until ~8,000'
From Glacier to first notch
From Glacier to first notch
From first notch to ridge
From first notch to ridge
Bonanza once on the ridge
Bonanza once on the ridge
Ridge to summit
Ridge to summit
Summit at 0745 and left st 0815.
Tailings and Railroad Creek Valley from Copper summit
Tailings and Railroad Creek Valley from Copper summit
Fernow (and Buck) from Copper summit
Fernow (and Buck) from Copper summit
Glacier and moraine from first notch (cairn), much of the terrain gained is out of view below the steep "headwall" to the notch
Glacier and moraine from first notch (cairn), much of the terrain gained is out of view below the steep "headwall" to the notch
I'm "go, go, go" mode
I'm "go, go, go" mode
Copper from camp
Copper from camp
Copper from the wilderness boundary. Roughly halfway between camp and the Copper Basin TH
Copper from the wilderness boundary. Roughly halfway between camp and the Copper Basin TH
Back to camp at 1030 and moving by 1045. I practically ran down the second half of the trail once out of the more rocky and root-lined areas. Bike at 1145 and pedaling hard at 1150.
Bike at 1144...
Bike at 1144...
Had to stop to get this shot of Lake Chelan from "Switchback 4 (or 3)"
Had to stop to get this shot of Lake Chelan from "Switchback 4 (or 3)"
An hour to get the 11+ miles to Lucerne. It should be good, as long as my tire(s) held. I stopped a few times to add air to the rear tire (once to the front) just so it didn't get so low that it blew or shredded, maintaining between 30 and 20 PSI. I checked my GPS for speed at various times and I was between 20 and 25 mph all the way down, sans the 10 sharp switchbacks near the end. I pulled up to the boat landing at 1235. I did it!!
Boat landing at 1234.
Boat landing at 1234.
The boat arrived at 1255 after I was able to get a quick dip in the lake and suck down some of the water while my head was under; I was parched when I began the bike ride and hadn't stopped for water since leaving my camp.
The Only at the landing upon boat arrival.
The Only at the landing upon boat arrival.
Don't worry... I masked up (required on the boat).
Don't worry... I masked up (required on the boat).
A sweet sight
A sweet sight
Byeee, beauties!
Byeee, beauties!
This will be an extremely memorable trip and is sitting, easily, in my top 3 of all time as of right now.
Doesn't count unless Strava'd, no? *sigh*
Doesn't count unless Strava'd, no? *sigh*

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Brushbuffalo
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Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between
Brushbuffalo
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PostSat Aug 29, 2020 8:26 pm 
You are knocking them off at a quick rate. Will you do any more of these Bulgers with a partner ( Lake, but any others so far?)

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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Alden Ryno
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Alden Ryno
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PostSat Aug 29, 2020 8:42 pm 
Likely at least one or two more will be done with a partner, moreso because of friendly ties rather than feeling the need for one. Four of my 85 have been with a partner(s); Baker, Robinson, Chiwawa, and Lake. Baker and Chiwawa had a common partner while Robinson and Lake had a different common partner. I'm highly introverted yet work with people on a daily basis, so I'm sure that I strive for even more alone time than most (introverts) during my outings to counterbalance my work.

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Brushbuffalo
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PostSat Aug 29, 2020 8:54 pm 
Just continue to be extra careful. That goes without saying.

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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Alden Ryno
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Alden Ryno
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PostSat Aug 29, 2020 9:38 pm 
Certainly smile.gif Thank you.

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gumby
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gumby
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PostSun Aug 30, 2020 3:50 pm 
Awesome! Very impressive, including the bike ride from lucerne to holden wink.gif dizzy.gif . Glad you made it back in time for the ferry. Love that area so much, thanks for sharing.

August die she must...
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contour5
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contour5
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PostSun Aug 30, 2020 4:07 pm 
I’m really enjoying your photos. Thanks for posting.

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Alden Ryno
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Alden Ryno
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PostSun Aug 30, 2020 4:55 pm 
gumby wrote:
Love that area so much
It has reinforced my love for the Glacier Peak Wilderness.
contour5 wrote:
I’m really enjoying your photos.
Thank you! smile.gif

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awilsondc
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PostSun Aug 30, 2020 5:12 pm 
Alden Ryno wrote:
Ammo cans and short shorts. Vietnam all over again
Ammo cans and short shorts. Vietnam all over again
The leg hair detail on this photo is incredible!!! lol.gif Your mad dash to the boat reminded me of my trip to Luna a couple years back. I made it back to the dock 12 minutes before my water taxi showed up. Nailed it! Perfect timing!!! What's up with bringing two pairs of trail runners? Is that standard practice for you?

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Alden Ryno
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Alden Ryno
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PostSun Aug 30, 2020 8:20 pm 
While blonde, my hairs are in enough abundance to stand out... Yes, two pairs of shoes is standard for overnight (and spring) trips. My shoes for technical terrain and snow and ice are La Sportiva Jackals. My other pair is are some rundown (currently) New Balance Zante V3's, the currently pair is practically bald now. I like having two pairs for a few reasons... 1) in case on pair gets soaked, I have another temporarily, at least, dry pair and 2) the Jackals are tighter while the Zantes are much more loose and breathe better. I prefer that flat miles be done with a "softer" shoe and the Jackals mean business (lol) and aren't too leisurely (that's how I like them to be). For lounging and even the bike ride, the Jackals are too much; their design is such that they're great for moving but aren't the best for being still, in my opinion.

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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostMon Aug 31, 2020 10:16 am 
Of all my years here...I have never heard anyone taking their bike up that road to Holden. Hats off to you!

Art is an adventure.
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Alden Ryno
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Alden Ryno
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PostMon Aug 31, 2020 8:13 pm 
No shuttle and no locals... I brought extra cash to pay to haul me up that thing, but no luck hihi.gif Although, I can honestly say that the ride down was amazing.

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