[thxII38]

Tomyhoi Peak has been on my scramble to-do list for a while. Recently, I watched the weather forecast for a great day, and I got it. For video visit my blog: www.bendurance.com I camped at Yellow Aster lakes, and on the morning of August 25, 2020 the sky was clear and I started my trek to the summit. The climbers trail to the glacier were pretty well defined. I followed the "Becky" route description mostly. I left camp at about 7:30 am and I reached the summit by noon. That was about 1/2 hour longer than the Becky estimate of 4 hours. I used mountaineering boots, crampons, ice-axe, and climbing helmet. I would recommend nothing less, although it is possible to do naked and barefoot I suppose. The "gable", a 30-foot gnarly expose section right before the summit, was clear of snow and ice. I had no issues just walking over it. When ice is present, most will cross à-cheval with a foot on each side; however, I was fueled by so much adrenaline from getting to this point, that I barely recognized the "gable" to the summit. When I reached the summit, I looked NW, and did not see anything close to being higher than where I was. I was confused for a moment when I realized I was on the summit and had crossed the spooky, vastly exposed gable section. I turned around and said to myself, "that was it?" I have enjoyed a lot of great scrambles in the past couple of years: Mt. Pugh, North Twin, Rubicon Peak, Sourdough Mountain (the mountain - not the lookout tower), Baker and Wheeler Peaks, and others (videos and photos on my blog for those interested). Tomyhoi was the most exhilarating of them all by far. I have read trip reports where the author said, "that's it! I can't continue it's too spooky and exposed!" I understand that sentiment. I said that to myself a half dozen times. I also exited the glacier at the wrong place (followed dirty path on glacier of previous climbers - big mistake) and ended up ascending a low-5th class loose 30 foot gully. Which, of course, I descend on the return. All in all, it was a great day and I recommend starting early. I saw a group of four late in the day heading to do it, and all the peaks around were covered by fog. They did it as a day hike, and did not make it to the summit. Finally, the area of Yellow Aster Lakes and Yellow Aster Butte were thick with visitors. Many were well behaved and respected the Baker Wilderness; however, too many walked on fragile heather, and, now channeling Harvey Manning, too many were with multiple dogs off-leash and terrorizing marmots and other critters. Please people, this is not Disneyland. It is a national wilderness area.