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Route Loser
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PostMon Aug 31, 2020 8:45 pm 
I haven't ventured out much this year while trying to rest some devilish combination of Achilles tendonitis and plantar fasciitis in both feet. My colleague and climbing partner, Jonathan, has been plagued with the effects of COVID for 6 months, alternating fatigue, skin lesions, and digestive woes, which he has affectionately termed “lifer syndrome.” Neither condition was improving with rest, and it seemed a more active therapy was merited. Having spent several days stymied by rain over multiple trips to Blum and having seen only a frozen Berdeen Lake from Bacon/Hagan, I wanted to get back into the area. Tom Sjolseth and Steph Abegg’s trip through Mystery Ridge was certainly an inspiration to go further. Wild Lake was an obvious draw, and Tabor and Crowder’s line drawn down the west end of Pioneer Ridge seemed the logical completion of a loop back to the Baker River. A big thanks to Brushbuffalo for answering my query regarding the descent from Pioneer Ridge with the info that it was “hot and steep.” Indeed! Day 1 – Baker River to North Blum Lake (Vista Lake) The route to Blum lakes is a highly enjoyable forest romp once you have dialed in the route over a few trips. We skipped the traverse over to the lower lakes and continued north on the ridge crest. This is a superb meadowed ridge walk in the mold of a little Sahale Arm. Day 2 – Vista Lake to Berdeen Lake We carried over Blum via the fun ramp in the west face then descended to Upper Blum Lake and headed over to the col between Hagan and Schizo Peak. There’s about 30 feet of downclimbing mud to be had on the Berdeen side of the col, and after that an easy walk down the last gasp of a dying glacier, a moraine filled with flowers, and as many flat campsites as you like. I had thought this would be an easy day, but my left heel was killing me and we were moving slowly, so we found ourselves squishing through the broad marshy meadow on the shore of upper Berdeen as the skies went dark and the bats swooped in to relieve the trout from mosquito duty. We set up camp between the two lakes, appreciating the scant evidence of human visitors for such a clearly attractive fishing lake.
Berdeen
Berdeen
Day 3 – Berdeen Lake to Mystery Ridge The day began with a light rain and some excellent fishing for micro cutthroat, just big enough to fill our cookpot with a supplemental 100 calories or so. We were moving around 11 and staring up at Mystery Ridge from east of Native Knoll by noon. To be honest, my partner Jonathan is not terribly experienced, and I have an aversion to loose scrambling, so we sat and eyed the route, and I probed a bit to see if Jonathan wanted to be talked out of it. But one of the joys of innocence is lacking the information to make the right decision… and on we went. The early scrambling on Mystery Ridge up to the first two bumps at around 6,514 turned out to be the most solid and aesthetic of the trip and, in fact, quite easy and without much felt exposure. We scoped out the upcoming terrain from the first bump and decided to depart the ridge for a long descending traverse across the shattered basins on the SE flank of Mystery Ridge. It was all a decent walk on slabs and talus until crossing under the south arm of point 6,191, where we were met with a slope full of slippery wildflowers and curses and wounded tailbones and wounded pride. Along the way, we encountered a small bear, who took one sniff of us and got the heck out of there. The talus and scree loosened and worsened on our way up to the obvious notch at about 5,400 on the ridge crest between point 6,191 and The Tit. We had a sweaty disagreement with some dense trees on the final slopes up to the notch, and we were exhausted and pushing darkness as we set up camp at the first marginally flat spot we found on the ridge amid the bear scat and the stars.
Traverse to Mystery
Traverse to Mystery
Scrambling on Mystery
Scrambling on Mystery
Mystery Basins Traverse
Mystery Basins Traverse
Loving the Mystery gully
Loving the Mystery gully
Day 4 – Mystery Ridge to Wild Lake I had intended to climb North Despair but the continuous snow arete was missing in action as were two functional feet, so we set our sights on Jasper Pass. This was a serene walk down slabs and heather with outstanding views of the Southern Pickets. There was a bit of a forest bash and then back into the land of pristine campsites and tarns and views back to Despair and all the perfectly rough and wild places of the Cascades. We traversed steep heather and probably failed to find the easiest way over to the 6,500 notch on Pioneer Ridge. We followed a band of krummholz trees at about 6,000 until they led to an easy 10-foot wide ledge with a good deal of exposure. We roped up and belayed a traverse along the ledge for three rope lengths, slinging trees along the way. We had a 30-meter rope, and I would have given my useless left foot for another 10 meters, but hey, sometimes you gotta sling a dead tree and keep the faith. The final gully up to the notch was pure garbage, but we’d become rather accustomed to loose rock at that point. We popped out onto snow slopes under the great walls of the Northern Pickets. Wild Lake and a rest day awaited, and we zipped down on snow and slabs to set up camp lakeside at dark.
Above Jasper Pass
Above Jasper Pass
Despair
Despair
Traverse to Pioneer
Traverse to Pioneer
Solid granite
Solid granite
Not at all slippery
Not at all slippery
Descent to Wild Lake
Descent to Wild Lake
Spectre
Spectre
Day 5 – Wild Lake Something about the source of all creation… and passing on a climb of Crowder.
Monkeys
Monkeys
Wild Outlet
Wild Outlet
Wild Flowers
Wild Flowers
Wild Sunset
Wild Sunset
Day 6 – Wild Lake to Bald Eagle Creek We finally managed an early start to approach the unknowns of the far end of Pioneer Ridge. A couple of goats showed us the way to the saddle between points 6,944 and 6,700 (Settler and Squatter). Squatter looks to be a simple but loose climb from the saddle. I don’t imagine too many folks have been on top of that one. I had planned to follow the line drawn in Routes & Rocks across Pioneer Ridge, but I was also curious whether a route could be cut through the band of trees that splits the major slab system in the middle of the basin. We decided to try the low route and sent it through at 5,400 without trouble and then climbed moderate heather slopes to a minor saddle just west of point 6,260. We were still able to enjoy the rock and heather ramble down the far end of Pioneer Ridge, passing abundant campsites hanging over the edge of the abyss. The problem with rest days and an early start is that you can accomplish too much. Jon’s lifer syndrome was in remission, and my feet were feeling good. We were staring down the frightfully steep nose of Pioneer Ridge at 2:30, and we decided to go for it. We started off on the wrong foot, traversing back and forth, unable to locate Tabor and Crowder’s suggested ramp through a cliff band. Eventually, we pulled out the rope and led down some 70-degree blueberries and further down a sapling-choked dihedral. Again, we would have loved a slightly longer rope. From there, we were routinely cliffed but never out. We bypassed many rock steps by descending a little further north than the nose of the ridge, but eventually this came to haunt us when, at 7:30 with the daylight slipping away, we were staring over a sheer drop into two gully systems at 2,600 . We had to ascend a couple hundred feet and traverse back to the nose of the ridge. From there, we went for a full speed controlled fall to the sandbars of Bald Eagle Creek and had the tent up at 8:05, counting all of the lucky stars. One should not be deterred by the brush of Pioneer Ridge. If anything, the route could use more brush to provide more handholds and better break the many inevitable falls along the way.
Wild Sunrise
Wild Sunrise
Pioneer Routes & Rocks
Pioneer Routes & Rocks
Pickets
Pickets
Squatter
Squatter
Across Pioneer
Across Pioneer
Back t' other way
Back t' other way
Ridge Running
Ridge Running
Mystery Revealed
Mystery Revealed
That's way down there
That's way down there
Day 7 – To the car! We had a lovely morning walk down the Baker River, and already the many places along the way we had sworn to never return were fading into the backdrop of a largely restorative experience. And, for a moment, we were healed.

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raising3hikers
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PostMon Aug 31, 2020 8:52 pm 
A "route loser" you are not! Very nice trip!

Eric Eames
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Stefan
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PostTue Sep 01, 2020 9:53 am 
Hold it. You mean to tell me the Baker River was a "non issue"???? Seriously????

Art is an adventure.
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Route Loser
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PostTue Sep 01, 2020 10:50 am 
Stefan, I'm a horticulturist. In my opinion, the closer you get to the plants, the better. My general theory of brush is that it moves out of the way when you ram your body into it. The river is pretty low this time of year, so you can cross at will to pick your preferred area of travel. It's definitely a walk that becomes easier with the knowledge of a few trips in there.

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Gimpilator
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PostTue Sep 01, 2020 11:49 am 
This is a fun read. Thanks. Have spent some time wondering about these areas and looking at them from nearby. Surely, not many have explored the Pioneer area. That's about as wild as WA gets.

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flatsqwerl
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PostTue Sep 01, 2020 12:06 pm 
Route loser, really awesome report. I would love to do this someday and it better be soon as I am getting old. I think you unwittingly provided some comedy gold. The next time I am brush bashing with someone and they question my route choice/description, I will merely say: " but I am a horticulturist..."

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Route Loser
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PostTue Sep 01, 2020 12:41 pm 
Hey, that's the goal - comedy first, a little grandstanding second. I'll drop the hardman act and spill the surprisingly well-kept secret: there is a well-maintained trail to Crystal Creek, and there are no obstacles other than wet feet getting to Pass Creek. Above Pass Creek, blood will be drawn...

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geyer
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PostTue Sep 01, 2020 2:11 pm 
Route Loser wrote:
I'm a horticulturist. In my opinion, the closer you get to the plants, the better. My general theory of brush is that it moves out of the way when you ram your body into it. The river is pretty low this time of year, so you can cross at will to pick your preferred area of travel. It's definitely a walk that becomes easier with the knowledge of a few trips in there.
That's the experience I had last year too. It took us a day to get in to Bald Eagle creek because we tried to fight the brush by getting away from the river but it was actually thicker the farther we went. On the way back, we crossed the river at will and it took us less than half a day. BUT MAN! I'm jealous! I really underestimated the Baker River approach last year and I've been itching to get back at it. Thanks for posting!

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Route Loser
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PostTue Sep 01, 2020 2:56 pm 
Get back in there! The valley itself is a worthy destination. I made similar mistakes on a recon trip thinking we should skirt around the swamp shown above Crystal Creek on the USGS topo. If you let that river out of your sight, the brush, the bees, and the big downed trees will find you.

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Stefan
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PostWed Sep 02, 2020 9:08 am 
Route Loser wrote:
Stefan, I'm a horticulturist. In my opinion, the closer you get to the plants, the better. My general theory of brush is that it moves out of the way when you ram your body into it. The river is pretty low this time of year, so you can cross at will to pick your preferred area of travel. It's definitely a walk that becomes easier with the knowledge of a few trips in there.
Well I am impressed by the fortitude. And...."I'm a horticulturist"....is quite funny response! Golden!

Art is an adventure.
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Route Loser
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PostWed Sep 02, 2020 11:09 am 
You should get in there, Stefan. You've already been everywhere else. On a serious note, I appreciate you sharing all of your trip reports over the years. You too, gimpilator.

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neek
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PostWed Sep 02, 2020 11:32 am 
I like those shorts...

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Brushbuffalo
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PostFri Sep 04, 2020 4:13 pm 
Well done!
Route Loser wrote:
A big thanks to Brushbuffalo for answering my query regarding the descent from Pioneer Ridge with the info that it was “hot and steep.” Indeed!
'Hot and steep' It would cause heart failure today at 73 instead of 19.
Route Loser wrote:
one of the joys of innocence is lacking the information to make the right decision… and on we went.
I like the way you tricked Jonathan into continuing on after a long look at some upcoming interesting terrain. I have used that strategy more than a few times. I think it was easier for Dwight Crowder and me to climb up Pioneer Ridge out of Baker River rather than descend. In fact the R&R route description was based on the mystery of our 1967 ascent rather than the mystery of an unknown descent..We could see the cliffs above but figured we couldn't fall UP them, figuring falling up was generally preferable to the opposite. We had more concerns several days later exiting the So. Picks. out Stetattle Ridge in the foggy rain....all unknown in 1967. No beta back in the olden days. In fact the term 'beta' was years away. Sometimes you just have to figure it out as you go. You did.
Route Loser wrote:
My general theory of brush is that it moves out of the way when you ram your body into it.
That's exactly how I earned my trail name, and my legs have the scars to show the folly of this technique.

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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Route Loser
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PostSat Sep 05, 2020 1:43 pm 
Folly? Brush beasting has many rewards, occasionally even including getting to where you intended to go. Was it just you and Dwight Crowder on the '67 Pickets traverse? Thinking of the loads you must have carried up Pioneer Ridge is enough to give me a heart attack. I think we were down to 35 lbs each by the time we began our falling down the ridge.

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Brushbuffalo
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PostSat Sep 05, 2020 2:32 pm 
Route Loser wrote:
Was it just you and Dwight Crowder on the '67 Pickets traverse?
Dwight Crowder, me, and a 20 year old geochem assistant from Colorado named Edgar Ragsdale ( 'Rags', of course) used the Baker River and Pioneer Ridge approach into the Pickets. In my opinion it is probably the hardest and least logical way in to the Pickets that has been done (unless you want to try McMillan Creek, which IMO is even brushier than the hellacious Luna Creek Direct, the latter probably never done once wiser folk discovered the Access Creek version). If you just wanted to climb Phantom Peak and its nearest neighbors, you might be adventurous and masochistic and use Pioneer Ridge. Rowland Tabor, Nealy Bostick (geologist for USGS), and another field assistant, from Stanford, named John Harbuck came in from Easy Ridge and Challenger and met the 3 of us at the base of Phantom Peak on our third day. From there together we pioneered a route through Picket and Pickell passes, eventually traversing north of the Southern Pickets and exiting via Elephant Butte and Stetattle Ridge to Diablo. Said to be the first complete traverse of the Northern and Southern Pickets. I don't know, but it was an adventure, and at the time I was too naive to appreciate the novelty of it.
Route Loser wrote:
Thinking of the loads you must have carried up Pioneer Ridge is enough to give me a heart attack. I think we were down to 35 lbs each by the time we began our falling down the ridge.
I don't remember our climb up the end of Pioneer Ridge to be very hard, but 1) we were going up so maybe could see better, 2) Rowland might have scoped it out from the air before and gave beta (as now called) to Dwight, and 3) I was young and in super shape after traipsing about every day in the N.C. as a geologic field assistant, (had to carry the rock and sediment samples). However, I have a picture of Dwight and Rags soaking in a small pond on the Ridge after our ascent....They look quite whooped, as I'm sure I was too! Or 4) and most likely, maybe my memory has softened the struggle after 53 years! I have lots and lots of stories, all basically true but some may have become exaggerated after all these decades. I have an hour slide show (using the original unscanned 35 mm slides!) called "Seeking Minerals, Finding Devils Club: Geologic Explorations of the North Cascades in 1967". I present it ( no charge) in combination with a show called " Splitters and Choss Piles: Rocks We Climb in Washington". It is also an hour long and features the photographs of my friend and awesome climber ( and NWHikers member) Steph Abegg, who now lives in Boulder, CO. PM if interested. Keep in mind I am in B'ham and need an adequate space and a screen to do the show. But arrangements can be made.

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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