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Nancyann
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Location: Sultan Basin
Nancyann
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 5:05 am 
This is a route that I have been wanting to try for a long time, ever since I saw Triad Lake while on a day hike from Buck Creek Pass. I had always wondered if I could even make it across High Pass, which requires crampons and ice axe most of the year. I always try to avoid routes which require such gear, but I had heard that it was late enough in the summer that it wouldn’t be needed. I was also hoping that the legendary ford of the Napeequa River would be doable by the first week of September, although that status was unknown. I’ve been pondering a future circumnavigation of Glacier Peak, so I really wanted to scout out what seems to me the crux of such an endeavor. Hiking Partner also had never been on this route, so when we saw the stellar weather forecast for the first week of September, we loaded up our backpacks and headed out. To avoid Labor Day crowds we decided to skip Buck Creek Pass and just do an out and back from the White River to High Pass, via Boulder Pass. Since the weather was going to be so nice, we decided to add a sixth day to maximize the fun! Day One, September 1: Some scattered showers were expected in the evening, so we marched up the 8 1/2 miles to Boulder Basin without taking any pictures. I was very relieved that there were no biting insects to be found! However, we were constantly waylaid by enticing blueberries and huckleberries which were impossible to resist. Day Two, September 2: It did indeed rain, but only in sprinkles. This made the long uphill trudge from Boulder Basin to the pass much more bearable. What a gorgeous area, and fall colors were beginning to emerge.
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
After we topped Boulder Pass, I was treated to my first views of the Napeequa River Valley far below, and was completely mesmerized. The showers had stopped and the drifting clouds were making shadows across the ridge, adding to the beauty.
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20.
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20.
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20.
The Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20.
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Napeequa Valley, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Due to my obsessive picture-taking and unexpected blowdowns on the lower part of the trail, we didn’t arrive at the Napeequa River until 5pm. At that point, our operation came to a complete halt. The river was running fast and so high we could not see the bottom anywhere. paranoid.gif
Downed tree, Boulder Pass to the Napeequa River 9/1-9/6/20
Downed tree, Boulder Pass to the Napeequa River 9/1-9/6/20
Horse skull, Boulder Pass to the Napeequa River 9/1-9/6/20
Horse skull, Boulder Pass to the Napeequa River 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa at 5pm, not fordable by me!
The Napeequa at 5pm, not fordable by me!
We had hoped to cross the Napeequa and camp a few miles upstream at the base of the high route to High Pass. Instead, we backtracked into the woods a short distance to a primitive camp, which turned out to be quite comfortable. Day Three, September 3rd: It had been quite warm during the night, so we were worried that the river, filled with silt from the melting glaciers off Clark, Napeequa, and Glacier Peak, would still be running high in the morning. We were very fortunate though, and we could at least see the bottom, which appeared to be knee deep. We had brought one pair of water shoes, which Hiking Partner wore across first and then threw over to me. I almost lost the second one when the breeze blew it into the river, close call. I put them on, and despite the fast-moving current, made it across safely.
Fording the Napeequa the first time, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Fording the Napeequa the first time, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The rest of the day we slowly made our way up through the brushy trail to the confluence of the Napeequa and High Pass Creek, where we found an excellent campsite, probably used by hunters for generations. Thankfully, the trail had been brushed out recently and wasn’t too hard to follow. And still no biting insects! This was an exceptionally scenic valley, with spectacular views up to Clark Mountain and beyond. Louis Falls was a sublime place to stop for lunch, so refreshing on what turned out to be a very warm day. We hadn’t seen anyone since we left Boulder Basin, except for an occasional trail runner doing some sort of epic superhuman loop over Buck Creek Pass from Little Giant Pass. It appeared that most people avoided the route we chose to avoid crossing the Napeequa.
The Napeequa, looking downstream, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa, looking downstream, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa, looking upstream, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The Napeequa, looking upstream, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
After fording the Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
After fording the Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
After fording the Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
After fording the Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
View towards Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
View towards Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
View towards Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
View towards Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
View towards Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
View towards Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Louis Falls, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Louis Falls, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Looking back at the way we came, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Looking back at the way we came, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Approaching the confluence of the Napeequa and High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Approaching the confluence of the Napeequa and High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Approaching the confluence of the Napeequa and High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Approaching the confluence of the Napeequa and High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The beautiful Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The beautiful Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The beautiful Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The beautiful Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek near the Napeequa confluence 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek near the Napeequa confluence 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek near the Napeequa confluence 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek near the Napeequa confluence 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
High Pass Creek, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Day Four, September 4th: This was our big day to try to get up to High Pass and see beautiful Triad Lake, so I woke up early, and was surprised to see a handsome buck in our camp.
Our camp by the Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Our camp by the Napeequa, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
I found a bait can of chicken which some evil predator had stashed next to a tree in the campsite and we removed it. I wonder if it was the same person who very recently carved his huge initials in a perfectly healthy fir tree at the campsite. shakehead.gif We left our tarps up with our gear inside, hung our food and filled our day packs with the essentials for a long day. I didn’t take a picture of the first part of the boot path as it starts up towards High Pass, because I was holding on for dear life to any branch or root that would keep me from falling over backwards. This route was straight up! eek.gif I was very relieved when we reached a beautiful basin and the trail started to level out.
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
From the basin, a faint boot path followed High Pass Creek, sometimes disappearing in the heather or where the snow had recently melted. Beautiful Buck Mountain was on our right, it’s slopes filled with scarlet and gold berry bushes, and an occasional marmot calling. On our left, very rugged and rocky peaks rose, blocking Glacier Peak from our view. Off to the south we could see Clark Mountain and some of the Ten Peak Range as we climbed higher up the valley. It had kind of a magical feeling to it, as if it is only passable for a very short time, and winter arrives very early and very abruptly.
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
As we approached the top of the pass, the landscape became very stark, and it felt like we were on top of the world.
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
We were able to find a path across one lingering snow finger and when we reached the top of High Pass, the views were spectacular. We were surprised to see that a smoky haze had moved in, because the skies had been perfectly clear the previous day. Nevertheless, the views of Triad Lake were stunning, and we sat down for lunch enjoying our hard-earned rewards.
Nearing the top of High Pass, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Nearing the top of High Pass, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Triad Lake from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Triad Lake from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Triad Lake from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Triad Lake from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Triad Lake from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Triad Lake from High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
The shadows were growing long, so after finishing lunch, we began our descent back to our camp by the Napeequa in the valley far below.
Heading back down High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Heading back down High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
We had seen only one person all day, until we got to the vertical veggie belay at the bottom, where we met a couple of tired guys and their dog, looking for a campsite. We told them about the basin we just came down from so they headed up there for the night. They were the only people we saw until the next day. Day Five, September 5th: We got up early in hopes of re-crossing the Napeequa before it became swollen with snowmelt. We could tell it was going to be another very warm day, but were grateful that the smoky haze had disappeared. As we left our camp, I took a picture of the steep ridge we had to climb the previous day. It looked so reasonable from a distance. huh.gif
Looking back at the start of the route up to High Pass from the Napeequa River 9/1-9/6/20
Looking back at the start of the route up to High Pass from the Napeequa River 9/1-9/6/20
As we headed down the valley, we were delighted to meet a trail runner couple who we had helped with directions earlier in the summer near Fifth of July Mountain. They were a little surprised to see us, and we had a nice visit, The Little Giant Pass/Buck Creek Pass seems to be a popular route with trail runners. We were unpleasantly surprised to find the Napeequa River running a little higher than when we previously crossed it, even though we arrived an hour earlier. I wasn’t really surprised though, because the waterfalls off the Clark Mountain glaciers were gushing like crazy as we passed by them earlier in the morning. Nevertheless, we made it across without issue, and I even managed to catch both water shoes that Hiking Partner threw over to me!
Now the long slog back up Boulder Pass began and it was getting hot. Thankfully, we were distracted by endless delicious ripe blueberries, huckleberries and even salmonberries. The colorful bushes were so pretty in the afternoon sunlight!
Heading back up Boulder Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Heading back up Boulder Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
We met a couple of backpackers on the other side of Boulder Pass who told us the campsites were filling up quickly, after all it was Saturday, Labor Day weekend. Thankfully, we were able to find a very nice campsite part way down on the edge of Boulder Basin, where we could enjoy our last night, which was slightly marred by target shooters below us. rant.gif Day Six, September 6: I woke up at 5am while it was still dark, and decided to put on my headlamp and go berry picking. I wanted to make the most out of my last day! In doing so, I was also treated to a wonderful sunrise.
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
I ate so many berries, I began to wonder if I was going to die of berry poisoning. But what a way to go. clown.gif I did save a few and added them to my last breakfast of the trip, Mountain House Granola and Blueberries. smile.gif
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6 20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6 20
Knowing this would be my last multi-day trip of the season, I regretfully packed up my gear, spurred on by more bear hunter’s jolly target shooting. I felt so sorry for the poor marmots, hunkered down fearfully in their tunnels. The hike out was fairly pleasant, considering that it was almost all downhill for 8 1/2 miles. Every once in a while, we would pass by a group of hunters, all decked out in their camo outfits, sweating like pigs on a very hot day. All very polite and friendly though.
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
When we got close to the trailhead, we found a beautiful spot along the White River to get refreshed before the long drive home, a perfect way to end our six days in the most sublime wilderness imagineable!
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20

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Conrad
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 6:20 am 
Nancyann wrote:
I didn’t take a picture of the first part of the boot path as it starts up towards High Pass, because I was holding on for dear life to any branch or root that would keep me from falling over backwards. This route was straight up! eek.gif
There is actually an old well-built trail up through the brush (slide alder?) to climber's left of those falls, but it's hard to find the beginning, it's quite overgrown, and I'm guessing you didn't find it because IIRC it's not that steep.

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Bootpathguy
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 7:19 am 
Great images. Nice that you didn't have any air saturated smoke. Thanks for sharing. Whats your theory on the horse?

Experience is what'cha get, when you get what'cha don't want
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RichP
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 7:44 am 
Bootpathguy wrote:
Whats your theory on the horse?
Two horses were killed coming down from the opposite side of the Napeequa below Little Giant Pass on a PCT detour in 2009. Likely not the skull of one of them unless it had been carried down by someone though. There is a long thread on the subject. Very nice, Nancyann. Looks like a sublime trip.

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Nancyann
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 9:08 am 
Conrad, that is interesting because this path was not exactly well built, so maybe the other path had become unused for some reason. It was quite steep, especially at the top! But then I’m not a climber, so everything is relative. Bootpathguy, I know that horses are forced to go on trails that are unsafe quite often. Sometimes people don’t realize what they are getting into until it’s too late to turn around. I used to ride in the high country, but I care too much about my horses and my own safety now. Thanks, Rich, yes I had heard about the horses falling to their death on Little Giant.

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GaliWalker
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 9:41 am 
Great report, especially the photographs!

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani
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olderthanIusedtobe
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 10:36 am 
up.gif Beautiful Nancyann! I thoroughly enjoyed this route as far as Boulder Pass last year, but I didn't drop down to the Napeequa. I've also gazed down upon it from beyond High Pass and Little Giant Pass. It looks so tantalizing, but I have yet to actually set foot in the valley. Maybe some day...

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rbuzby
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 11:03 am 
I like your pictures Nancyann, good shooting! There was a horse carcass at Chain lakes many years ago. I never heard what happened but it must be a bummer to come back from a mountain trip without one of your horses. Poor guys probably even had to carry their own gear out.

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neek
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 11:20 am 
always wondered what was on the other side of boulder pass. this seems like a good way to get to high pass. you can do the standard loop (and the view into the napeequa from LGP is unbeatable IMO) but half of it's a little boring. thanks for the great report and pics.

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fourteen410
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 11:43 am 
Beautiful Nancy! So glad you were able to enjoy a long trip in the wilderness before the smoke settled in. Excellent photos - thanks for sharing smile.gif

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raising3hikers
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 7:48 pm 
Yeah, great scenic trip nancyann! I'd take my time, too, for those great pics

Eric Eames
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rubywrangler
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 8:44 pm 
Nancyann wrote:
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Clark Mountain, Boulder Pass to High Pass 9/1-9/6/20
Wow, what a view! I've never been all the way to boulder pass - looks like it's worth a trip!

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Nancyann
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 9:16 pm 
Thanks for all the positive feedback, everyone! It’s especially meaningful to me since I often feel that I should spend less time taking pictures and more time just chilling out and connecting with nature on a very basic level. Nature can teach us so much! OlderthanIusedtobe, I was drawn to your trip report for Boulder Basin for places to camp and also initially wanted to use the extra day to explore that side trail you went up, until it got used up waiting for the Napeequa to go down. Rbuzby, I would imagine it would be a tough walk out of the backcountry wearing cowboy boots and carrying your gear if your horse died. agree.gif For anyone considering doing this route, I would definitely wait until September like we did. I have heard that the biting insects are horrific in the Napeequa during peak season and crossing the river would be definitely be more challenging. Although there aren’t many big boulders to get knocked up against if you fell in, but that current... It also helped immensely that someone had recently brushed out the trail up the valley for easy passage, although we did have quite a few large annoying blowdowns to negotiate right before we got down to the river and the trail is sliding and sloughing off as well. That said, it is a lovely valley, unique in its beauty.

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InfinitySpirals
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PostThu Sep 17, 2020 10:27 pm 
Beautiful photos, Nancyann!

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timberghost
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PostFri Sep 18, 2020 6:11 am 
Area has many high hunters in it currently. Too bad you couldn't have one of the most picturesque areas in the valley. Nice write up

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