[ozzy]

This gnarly little spire has been on my list for awhile now. Seeing it from Colchuck lake and mountaineer ridge I was surprised to find out it had a route, no ropes necessary!! So naturally it peaked my interest. I knew the horseshoe basin area was badass for the larches so I wanted to save it for the perfect time! That day was tuesday! Last week a good part of the larches were already turning in Awilsondc's and my trip up Big Jim and Lou so I figured it should be primetime up here. So I burned a vacation day and met up with Bryan for said journey. We made it to the Stuart lk trail around 330am, after the a short nap we were on the trail around 430am. The stoke was high and we were both excited to get up into the alpine! We made it to Stuart lk around 630am and took a snack break while the sun came up. From the lake we followed the trail towards to back of the lake(east side). We followed an ummaintained from the lake for about 2miles SW. The trail goes through an old burn for much of the way and there is plenty of deadfall to negotiate. The trail is pretty worn and easy to follow for the most part. Around 5100ft you come to a dead end at a meadow below the Stuart formation!! Wow what a beautiful place and we were just getting started! It's easy to get your second wind when seeing views like this!

sunup Stuart lk

the burn

5100ft basin

oh wow

From the meadow you wanna ascend directly west up the steep burned out slope for about 1200ft to gain access to Horsehoe lk. There is a well defined climber's path goin up this slope. The trail eventually leads to it right before the meadow. You might have to search a little but there is a nice trail. We made quick work of the slope and made it to the lake 45mins after, 845am!! When I crested the ridge to get my first view of the lake I was mesmerized!! The larches were all in different stages so we got the whole spectrum of colors! The lake was still as can be and I didnt wanna leave this little slice of heaven! We had it all to ourselves too, we hadn't seen anyone since leaving Stuart lk! We definitely picked a good one today lol! This is probably the prettiest lake I've been to...speechless! We made our way around the SW shore of the lake until we came to a boulder field on the far reaches. From here we briefly ascended westward and found another beautiful meadow just west of the lake! This place was otherworldly, a large alpine meadow abundant in larches surrounded by gnarly granite landscapes! Bryan dubbed it "the Arena"!! Stuart dominated the south, this view of it is hard to beat. It was too sweet up here, we had to take a long snack break lol! We could clearly see the spire from here and the route that lie ahead!

views opening up by the step

headin up towards the lk

stoked to be climbing, Stuart lk in back

making the last little push to the lake

the lake

lake and spire up above

crazy reflections

Stewie and larches

Bryan and "the Arena"

looking S from the Arena towards Stuart

After lounging around "the Arena" for a bit we made our way up the last 1100ft to the summit. The slope is pretty easy to navigate, no more than class 2 getting up to the boulder fields below the summit. Around 7000ft we entered a gully partially blocked by a huge flat boulder. We made our way around to the left of it and avoided going down this way. It was steep heather that would suck to downclimb. After the gully we gained the boulder field and took that up to the saddle between the Beagle head(peak formation to the west) and Dudley spire! All the while the views ever improving! From said saddle you traverse under the south side of the summit block until you are right under it. From here climb a short gully to a chimney that starts around 70ft below the summit. It slants up and leftwards with a tree that's kinda blocking the exit at the top. It was a little tricky squeezing through. Once above that we were at the notch 20ft below the summit stoked as all hell!! The register is also here. To get to the true summit there is definitely a little pucker factor lol! It was exposed class 4 for a 20ft stretch probably. We took turns tagging the true summit then did our usual...relax, drink whiskey, and try not to think about the downclimb lol. The day was clear and views were amazing! What a day to be alive!! We made the summit at 1030am.

Bryan gettin it with the Arena down low

goldies

the 7000ft gully with the spire up high

a brief respite

up higher in the gully

towards the top of the gully

the Beagle head

Bryan on upper boulder field

at the saddle with the Beagle head above

the start of the chimney just below the summit

tree move at the top

true summit

yewww

wowwwweeee

Rainier with Ingalls in front

all the way down to the Arena

cheers

the reg

east down to Stuart lk

After 1.5hrs we reluctantly departed the summit area. We made quick work back down the upper slopes then before we got too low we traversed easterly to a giant slab overlooking horseshoe lk. It sat about 50ft above and had supreme views just like the whole area seemed to have. Another break here and a handful of others lol, we were hesitant to leave the beauty of the basin. Finally we headed down a little after 3pm. We were both on sensory overload by the time we hit Stuart lk! What another awesome journey, I'm starting to really dig this larch phenomenon! With another worthy peak in the bag we had our fill that day! We made the car at 5pm making the trip 12.5hrs roundtrip, 17.5miles, and around 4400ft gained.(keep in mind we are casual paced peakbaggers lol) Another all out righteous trip into the mountains! Great day to be breathing and thanks for joining my goofy ass again Bryan! Cheers to all!

Bryan comin down chimney

the beginning of the chimney

Stuart and horseshoe lk

lounging in the larches

colors

Bryan mirin

the view

what a sweet lake

astounded

parting view

[Bootpathguy]

Thanks for the memories Ozzy. I had a day, exactly like yours, five years prior https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8018331

[KascadeFlat]

Looks like a very nice day in a beautiful area. The larches are certainly out in force! LOVE this photo with the dusting of snow on Stuart:

[awilsondc]

Nice job man! You've got a knack for finding those sick peaks that haven't been climbed very often. Must have been cool to write your name down on that register. Those are my favorite to sign. Well done!