[williswall]

9/28: Wahpenayo (6231’)/Chutla (6000’)/Eagle (5958’) On Sunday, Sep 27, I drove to Mt. Rainier National Park with a peak bagging plan to take advantage of a superb weather forecast. The first part of the plan was to camp at Cougar Rock again for 2 nights, as I had a permit in hand for the Tyee Peak cross country zone on the night of Sep 30th. That trip will involve most of the Northern Loop Trail, but I needed to be in place at Sunrise on the night of the 29th to get a decent start. Last time I checked Highway 410 was still closed, so on this first day of good weather I could do the short drive to Longmire and park at the Eagle Peak trail head..after breakfast and a good night’s sleep, I hit the trail at 8:17 AM. The Eagle Peak trail is fine, gaining 3200’ without undue stress. However, I broke off the trail at 5000’ and proceeded cross country to the Wahpenayo-Chutla saddle. This off trail stuff is slow going but I picked up a faint boot track off and on which deposited me at the saddle. Lots of huffing and puffing on the steep parts. The description of Wahpenayo rates it a moderate scramble with an exposed section but I found it straight forward. The views on the ridge were incredible, with Rainier in your face with a distinct new snow line and the Tatoosh range to the east. Mt Adams and St. Helens were also vying for attention. I spent a short time on the summit, hoping there would be a way to continue from the saddle to Chutla, but it was too cliffy. I descended the way I came and contoured below the cliffs, eventually making my way up a steep meadow. Huff and puff. I was guessing where I could attain the saddle but lucky me, I intercepted the boot path for Chutla and climbed this steepish bit to the saddle. Chutla is an easy walk from the saddle but I was starting to get tired from all the steep work. For shitz and grins I took my phone off airplane mode on the summit and voila….4 bars! I called my wife, texted some photos and FaceTimed my daughter. Luckily she picked up at work so I was able to show her the 360 views from the summit. This is the 3rd time I’ve been able to connect with her on a hike, it’s getting to be a thing. So again, no direct route to the Eagle/Chutla saddle so I went back down and continued on the way trail to the saddle.

Eagle Peak

Kautz Glacier center

Mt Adams

Rainier from Chutla summit2

Now I was hot, thirsty and feeling a little worked. I took a break in the shade and made myself steel up for Eagle, which looked daunting. From the description there was supposed to be an exposed step close to the summit, but I guess I followed the boot path to a ledge lower down, described as somewhat exposed but straight forward scrambling. This proved to be true, my trousers were still empty and after carefully negotiating the ledge the trail led easily to the summit. Yet another in your face view of Rainier, and from each of the summits I could see Paradise. On Eagle, the Nisqually bridge was also in view. After decades of doing the Muir snowfield and looking at the rugged Tatoosh range on the descent, it was quite satisfying to look back from over here. Now all I had to do was descend and down climb those sections, which I find more difficult than ascending. Once off the ledge I breathed a sigh of relief, especially when I made the saddle and the trail was now before me. I took off my helmet and unpacked my poles for the 3200’ descent, glad to be back in the woods and out of the sun as I had depleted my water and was feeling a little dry. But not dry enough to bother with filling up the bottle at the creek I crossed as I knew I would suck down a couple of Limoncello soda waters at the van. This was a hard day for me with all the scrambling but I figured if I was gonna be up there I needed to bag all three peaks. I write this after a hot shower, a large influx of liquids and a huge dinner with a frozen snickers ice cream bar for dessert. Tonight I’m going to head up to Reflection Lake and see if I can capture the Aurora. After a nap. Stats: 11.3 miles?6600' 8/29/20: Pinnacle (attempt/6562’), Plummer (6370’), Denman (6006’) I guess I’ve been too lazy or occupied to get into my Pany G9 innards and really learn how to take star shots. I made some unsuccessful attempts, including today getting up at 4 AM and heading to Reflection Lakes to try and capture the Aurora and some stars, but I haven’t got the combo right. I need to get on it, this camera should take pretty good shots, it’s my ignorance that’s getting in the way. I was still feeling thrashed from the 3 peaker the day before, so moved just up the road to the Pinnacle Peak trail head and slept until 8. Thankfully this approach is much shorter (1.3 miles) with much less elevation gain to the saddle (1200’) than the Eagle Peak trail. I put on my helmet and immediately turned left for Pinnacle Peak. In a nutshell, I varied from the plan which cost me the peak. As I ascended it seemed a bit more than a “moderate scramble” and I was concerned I was off route. Despite no evidence, I thought maybe a contour around the base and ascent up the opposite ridge might be the way to go. It wasn’t. That area is a series of thin ledges with minimal good rock to hold onto, so I turned around carefully and made my way back to the pinnacle where I had broken off. Thoughts of getting banged up in a sliding fall so early into retirement danced in my mind. I regained my prior position and looked up the ridge and started to go on, but something in my gut said to bag it. I did not relish the careful down climbing that would be needed from the top, and the time I spent on the ledges taxed my mental reserves. So, for what may be an easy scramble for some people, on this day twasn’t so easy for me. 100 feet below the summit, I made my way back to the saddle. The next two climbs were described as easy, and a possible fourth (Lane) was described as difficult, with a long steep gully to ascend. I put Lane aside and did the easy trail up to Plummer, sporting yet another in your face view of the mountain, then descended on a way trail to access Denman. Lots of people do Plummer but Denman was not on their list. Denman was a straight forward scramble with poles with a broad summit and….another fantastic view of the mountain, also looking across to Paradise with a gleaming full parking lot. People were really taking advantage of this weather. Although the attempt at Pinnacle had taxed me a bit, generally this day was just laid back and serene, with perfect weather and views in both directions to the Tatoosh peaks, including the ones I had climbed the day before. I regained the van and drove around the mountain, using 123 and 410, which is still closed from the fire 33 miles down the road from the turnoff to the White River entrance. Onward to Sunrise. Stats: 5.6 miles/3400'

Denman from Plummer

Looking south from Plummer

Mountain details from Denman

Paradise from Plummer

Pinnacle Peak- turned back at the pinnacle

Rainier early morning

Rainier from Plummer

Reflection Lake

Sleepy Pica

Tarn reflection from the Tatoosh range

Wahpaneyo, Chutla and Eagle Peaks

9/30-10-01: Northern Loop Trail Day 1. With a permit in hand, I parked in the appropriate spot for overnights and spent some time cleaning out the vehicle, taking a shower and packing for my 2 day trip. There was a possibility of climbing two more peaks, Tyee Peak and Old Desolate, which would require a transit of the Elysian Fields. However, upon waking the following morning and starting off, it soon became clear that I was still somewhat thrashed from my previous two days so I soon came to grips with doing a pure backpack, kicking back and basically doing active rest. Unlike my previous Wonderland trip, I packed my burly eVent roomy bivy and a NeoAir xTherm. I did retain my Nunatak 40 degree quilt tho, based on the predicted freezing levels. With food and water I was probably more than 12 pounds, but not by much….although I did have my 2 pound camera this time. Let’s call it 15 pounds, as this will become a factor on the following day. Once past Windy Gap, I took the way trail towards Tyee and set up to bivy on a higher spot above the tarns. Basically it never got dark. As soon as the sun went down, a glow appeared behind me portending the moon’s arrival. Despite somewhat smoky skies, this bivy in the open with a constant cool breeze and bugling elk thoughout the night was supremely enjoyable and relaxing in my comfortable warm cocoon. I was still thinking an early getup would allow me to do Tyee Peak, but I didn’t wake until 7 AM. Todays stats: 18 miles/4000’

Frozen Lake smooth as glass

Smoky sunrise at Sunrise

Day 2 (rescue). On this CCW loop I soon came to the Yellowstone Cliffs, always a highlight. Despite lingering smoke, they were sublimely lit by the sun. The rest of the trail is hard on the quads with almost 3000’ of constant down, but the trail is quite pleasant with no foot impedimenta (like rocks, roots etc). Once I reached the intersection with the rerouted Wonderland, I was essentially repeating ground I did two weeks before. Upon arrival of the meadow in Moraine Park, at least the mountain was visible this time, although with ghostly lack of details. The day only really got interesting at Mystic Lake, where I ran into a woman asking if there was a ranger at the cabin. I said highly improbable, being this time of year and not on a weekend, but I soon learned why she was asking. Seems a woman had just arrived at the camp but fell and possibly broke her wrist. The couple attending to her had contacted the rangers through InReach to her mom who in turn called them. It was now late in the afternoon and there seemed to be only one good option, for her; to hike back out to her car at Sunrise. I gave my InReach address to the couple and prepared to escort her out. Our best guess was she severely dislocated her thumb, rendering her left hand useless. Unfortunately for me, her 35 pound pack was an extra small, which we somehow got on my back with my pack on my front. Her pack straps were so short that they barely covered my clavicles. The poor thing was in a bit of pain but was a real trooper, so with one pole in hand and the other tucked into her jacket, we set off for Sunrise. The only real problems I faced was the inability to high step with my pack in front, and a bit of discomfort from her teeny pack straps and super tight hip belt (on purpose). On a stop at Granite Creek I had to help put on her jacket, pants and set up her headlamp. It’s amazing how something that at first glance might not seem so bad, but in reality severely hinders your ability to do anything. Tie your shoes? Nope. Zip up your jacket? Nope. Set up a tent? Nope. And so on. We labored up to Skyscraper Pass and even took a minute to enjoy the fabulous evening. Let’s just say that dropping those packs at the vehicles was…liberating. On the way in the park service got in contact with me via InReach so they knew she was exiting that night. I even got a message saying to use the SOS button if the rangers were needed before morning. We arrived at 10 PM and she felt good enough to drive out then, wanting to avoid traffic to get home to Seattle. Good for her to be in such great shape and obviously have a high tolerance for pain. I gently suggested that she might want to look into lightening up her load, which was a contributor in slamming her to the ground when she tripped. I also think she became a convert on getting an InReach. Y’all be careful out there! Stats: 22 miles/6200’ TBC

Autumn colors

Banded

Ghostly view of Willis Wall

Grand Park2

Green light

Moonlit landscape

Moraine Park

Mystic Lake and Old Desolate

Sunrise at 10 PM enhanced

Sunset in the cross country zone

water source

Windy Gap

Yellowstone cliffs

45-50 pounds?

[stever]

Great report. I am going to PM you on something. SR

[hikerman]

Always enjoy and appreciate your write ups.

[JimL]

Always enjoy your reports and pictures. Great you were able to help the woman back to Sunrise. Lots of good karma.