Forum Index > Trip Reports > Zion - North Creek Wilderness 10/17-10/18
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slabbyd
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PostSun Oct 25, 2020 5:34 pm 
Twenty years ago I made my first trip to Zion. It was January and we went to the “desert” because we thought it would warm. It was anything but that. We stayed in a nearly deserted South Campground. Hiked empty trails in the pleasant January sunshine and spent long evenings at Oscars, reading books and eating endless baskets of tortilla chips. Statistics would tell you that visitation has only doubled since then. Maybe that’s true. But the practical reality is that the valley floor is a mob scene now in a way that’s incomprehensible to what I remember it like. I’ve been back to Zion a lot. And having done just about all the standard hikes, backpacks, canyons, free climbs and big walls, I’ve gained the freedom to explore lesser know sections of the park with out the sense of FOMO that I tend to experience when visiting new places. Basically I’m perfectly content to spend my time in the supposed B-list scenery. By far my favorite zone is the rugged terrain that surrounds North Creek. North Creek has a left and right fork. The left fork being home of the famous Subway. While the Subway is hammered with people, the right fork is largely uncrowded and the high country in between goes completely ignored. Access is difficult. There are no trails, the brush is generally terrible, exposed and loose rock is inevitable and water sources are difficult to find, foul or nonexistent. But once you reach the slick rock there is a sublime beauty that, for me, is unparalleled in the Colorado Plateau. “Desert Alpine” if there ever was such a place. Starting out in the lower reaches of The Right Fork if North Creek. Turns out that not only are Prickly Pear Cactus fruit edible they are quite delicious. Make sure to clean off the micro-spines!
Following Side canyons into the high country leads to expanded views and gorgeous color.
Narrows, sandy washes and slickrock bring me to a massive pour off.
Hoodoos and slabs lead to an incomparable ridge of white sandstone.
Sunrise from this amazing spot.
In the morning I move north towards Mt Ivins. This must be one of the most inaccessible summits in North America (climbed once at 5.9 A3 on crumbly bleached sandstone).
The long journey home begins on ancient elk trails that connect Phantom Valley with North Creek. There are an incredible network of trails here in the high country that deftly cross deep canyons and exposed slickrock. A true joy to find and follow.
Miles of slogging and thrashing in the heat, rewarded with a steep 400’ climb through lava rock to regain the trailhead. Final image is Mount Ivins in the center, far distance.

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John Morrow
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PostSun Oct 25, 2020 7:59 pm 
Trail to Upper Terry?

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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Get Out and Go
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PostSun Oct 25, 2020 9:37 pm 
Spectacular photos. up.gif I certainly hope to visit one of these years. rolleyes.gif

"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go." (Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart) "Sometimes you're happy. Sometimes you cry. Half of me is ocean. Half of me is sky." (Thanks, Tom Petty)
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slabbyd
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PostMon Oct 26, 2020 7:42 am 
John Morrow wrote:
Trail to Upper Terry?
That's the zone, though I went well beyond there. Hard to call or follow the path up Trail Canyon a trail though. Maybe next time I'll hit it just right.

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John Morrow
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PostMon Oct 26, 2020 7:52 am 
"That's the zone, though I went well beyond there. Hard to call or follow the path up Trail Canyon a trail though. Maybe next time I'll hit it just right." I barely remember Trail Cr but I got to the divide back in Nov of 1997. Not a Phish head but joined friends on a road trip to a Halloween show in Vegas before the hike. Did you circle out Wildcat? Or do you have a way onto the mesa between the North Cr. Forks north of Phantom? I have been hesitant to head up there solo but I really want to. Hate the 80 ft contour interval maps! Would love to get up Bishopric. Accessing S Guardian from Northgate was something I'd not want to do with a multiday pack. I found it intricate routefinding and the 4th class step out of the L Fk I didn't like for downclimbing, we rapped it.

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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slabbyd
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PostMon Oct 26, 2020 9:56 am 
Hey John. This was a lollipop. I went into Terry Wash then did an ~7-8 mile clockwise loop on the slickrock ridgelines to the north before exiting the way I came in. The elk trails I mention lead into Phantom Valley and I can recall finding an ancient TR buried on the internet of individuals connecting that with Wildcat Canyon. Looks rugged. I've made a couple trips onto the plateau between the L & R fork. Accessed from Wildcat Canyon via an obvious wall of slickrock. Beautiful and wild place. We managed three FAs of fairly significant peaks in that area before exiting via the Right Fork. I've also looped it to the top of the South Guardian and then out Northgate...long day. Bishropics is nice. Here's a link to a TR I wrote when I went in there six years ago. I encountered a significant number of elk and their trails all seemed much more beat in at the time. Sadly this year there was no sign of elk at all. I hope they still exist in the park. Bishropics Climb

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John Morrow
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PostMon Oct 26, 2020 10:16 am 
Nice! Thanks for the link. Love the frosty Pine Valley Mtns in the distance. I am planning on Mojave within a 200 mi radius of Vegas metro in Nov. May have to go via I15 and stop by Zion first. I have never desired a backpack into the west desert but sure looks like the plateau is accessible from the Trail Cr saddle up the big south facing slope. Still have some things to do in the East district region, too. If I ever head for Phantom via Wildcat I'll be sure to let you know! I've stopped posting Zion TRs (at least detailed ones) after a ranger discussed that east side with me. Wouldn't worry about the convoluted wildness below the west rim ever getting too popular. I appreciate the beta. John

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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Prosit
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PostMon Oct 26, 2020 7:43 pm 
Thanks for those inspiring, memory inducing pictures. Wildcat - Phantom goes, but if southbound, finding the route may take some scouting if you don't know where it is. A route onto the West Rim is third class. That's as specific as I'll get. As you know, lots of very fine exploring between there and Trail Pass. As well as further toward the Heaps Canyon area. Exquisite country.

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John Morrow
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PostMon Oct 26, 2020 8:53 pm 
Prosit wrote:
That's as specific as I'll get.
More than specific enough! Thanks for the insight

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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kiliki
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PostTue Oct 27, 2020 8:58 am 
WOW. I've been to Zion 6 times, though not since 2003 or so. I guess I'm lucky that I visited often before the era of overtourism.

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