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D. Inscho Not bored yet...
Joined: 28 Feb 2010 Posts: 973 | TRs | Pics Location: Bellingham,WA |
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D. Inscho
Not bored yet...
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Tue Dec 15, 2020 5:40 pm
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North Pasayten country Cathedral Lake
Few people know that Pasayten means “Beautifully lost”. Few people know because I just made it it up. Anyway, I love The Pasayten. I love its depth, inaccessibility, its inventory of historical and forgotten trails, its grassy summits and tundra-like meadowlands, and because the maps don’t always agree, a mystery that needs to be ultimately itched by boot alone.
Golden flanks
It had been a good year of backpacking but I wanted one more grand escapade in my trail slippers. A generous weather-window opened at the end of September just when the larch trees really begin chanting their golden prayers to vaulted blue skies. I dropped everything and picked up a pack for a 5 night pilgrimage to Cathedral lakes. It was a straightforward journey but I scratched some curiosities when I could.
Under smoky skies Forest incense under Cathedral
A skull-rattling drive on FS roads 37 & 39 had me at the Cathedral Driveway trailhead by 11a (from Bellingham) and the truck lightened by a bolt or two. The inbound plan was to approach via Remmel lake trail and overnight just below the junction with the 4-Point trail. The Driveway drops about 1300’ to join the river trail in a perfectly incinerated valley.
Golden grove The liturgy of autumn
After a 9 mile day I found a nice sandbar below a beaver dam on the Chewuch to curl up on. I slept a fine 10 hours to the beaver-induced water sounds. After a brief respite of unburned forest the charred spars returned; they did not relent until surrendering at tree line. At 3 1/2 hrs I broke onto the Amphitheater plateau.
High season Remmel Mtn and namesake lake Autumn meadow
Rather than proceed to Cathedral I wanted to lounge in and explore these tundra grasslands and the expansive views, secret tarns, and quiet. Indeed it was; the only disturbance was a pre-dawn chorus of coyotes yipping and crooning their mysterious exaltations at so much I only slightly understood. For all I know, I was just a food smell in a big wilderness kitchen to them.
Resting in camp
I spent that morning wandering the grassy expanse in slippers with a mug of coffee and camera in hand. It is an area so plush you could lay down anywhere and your back would find no insult. I wandered an unofficial stock trail that ascended to a basin within Amphitheater’s grand expanse and then descended back to the trail to Upper Cathedral. A high thin haze of smoke crabbed-in turning the sky to a dull aluminum.
Morning fire Play time Amphitheater meadow
Amphitheater was great but there was more to explore, so I packed my bangles to seek-out the golden counsel of larches at Cathedral. On my short journey I encountered Perry and his team also advancing to the basin. I have always enjoyed his destinations and trip reports so it was treasured encounter in an inspiring place. I also met Gil and compatriots as well.
Perry and his team Golden passage Amphitheater wall
This is no cheap-suit landscape, but there I was in my trail grubbies in stained-glass-wilderness-attendance with a fool grin on my face. Supplicating journeys have a way of doing that. I had 2 nights to enjoy the gilded and placid charms of Cathedral.
Cathedral in nature Seasonal gold Getting into the seasonal spirit
On the second night at the lake a bright full moon heralded smoke-free skies overnight promising some anticipated brilliant shots of the mirrored lake. I lingered till 11a before contentedly packing the camera for an anticipated 11.5 miles to the valley junction.
My kind of holiday tree Morning glory Looking back to Cathedral pass
I decided on the grand exit over Cathedral Pass, Apex, and through Tungsten to get me back to the Chewack for a final night. Indeed it was grand under clear blue skies. I took a lingering break at Tungsten to explore the wilderness mine ruins. I love its fascinating history of having operated through the winter months at 7000’. The Tungsten creek trail showed its history as a well worn and rugged market to mine trail as machinery was packed in by poor beasts of burden. The loads must have been ponderous.
Cathedral pass Looking back to Cathedral pass Fall flare
After a 5 hour day I was back at the Chewuck with a riverside camp. As in the first night, it was my lullaby through sleep. That left only about 6 miles and a 1300’ climb for the last day.
After a long hard day on the trail Amphitheater from lake Larch mosaic
Every trip into the unknown begins with an abstract notion; nothing more than lines dancing in parallel on a two-dimensional surface. The packing process involves an anticipation of needed equipment and supplies measured against the abstract demands of the trip. At the TH an aspirational journey becomes perspirational over the miles and days; it becomes real with effort and reward. As the pack empties I find the heart fills with satisfied curiosities and accompanying appreciation of the powerful mystery of our wild places and the triumph of solitude, in whatever form finds us.
Lakeside larch flare
Tungsten Mine gallery
Tungsten Mine cabins Rock drill and saw blade Stamp mill & concentrator A miner joy Chow table Tailings dump Design work Power plant The heart of any cabin Storyboards Miner spa Upper cabin Original concentrator Pulaski Miner living room and kitchen Bunk room
http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/
The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir
“My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/
The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir
“My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Tue Dec 15, 2020 6:04 pm
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Lovely and Lonely. A Perry-and-his-goats sighting is a treat. I saw them at Slate Pass some years back.
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Nancyann Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2013 Posts: 2318 | TRs | Pics Location: Sultan Basin |
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Nancyann
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Tue Dec 15, 2020 9:33 pm
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Well, David, your trip report just about brought me to tears. “Beautifully Lost” is a lovely interpretation of Pasayten. I missed getting up to that little piece of heaven this year, so nice to see your pictures!
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Pyrites Member
Joined: 16 Sep 2014 Posts: 1884 | TRs | Pics Location: South Sound |
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Pyrites
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Tue Dec 15, 2020 11:32 pm
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What Nancy Ann said.
A couple of those spots looked like prime echo spots.
Best.
Keep Calm and Carry On?
Heck No.
Stay Excited and Get Outside!
Keep Calm and Carry On?
Heck No.
Stay Excited and Get Outside!
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smp77 Member
Joined: 13 Aug 2020 Posts: 14 | TRs | Pics
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smp77
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Wed Dec 16, 2020 8:40 am
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Great TR and beautiful photos! I love the tungsten mine - I took a sibling there for his first backpacking trip. Would love to see the buildings preserved or restored. It's incredible to see the heavy equipment and infrastructure miles into the wilderness.
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Gil Member
Joined: 29 Sep 2004 Posts: 4062 | TRs | Pics
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Gil
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Thu Dec 17, 2020 4:44 pm
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Great TR! It was fun meeting you after enjoying your photos all these years. Hope you get many more trips in the Pasayten.
Friends help the miles go easier.
Klahini
Friends help the miles go easier.
Klahini
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D. Inscho Not bored yet...
Joined: 28 Feb 2010 Posts: 973 | TRs | Pics Location: Bellingham,WA |
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D. Inscho
Not bored yet...
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Fri Dec 18, 2020 8:59 am
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Thanks everyone. It is just one of many wonders in the Pasayten.
smp77 wrote: | t's incredible to see the heavy equipment and infrastructure miles into the wilderness. |
I recall reading that they used the packed snow of winter on the Tungsten Creek section to sledge some of the larger hunks of iron up to the mine.
http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/
The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir
“My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/
The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir
“My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
David, I always enjoy your poetic writing ( reminiscent of Colin Fletcher or a cheerful Edward Abbey) and awesome photos. You are one of the people that make NWHikers so worthwhile.
Thank you.
( p.s. on one picture, I believe you mean Remmel Mountain and lake).
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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D. Inscho Not bored yet...
Joined: 28 Feb 2010 Posts: 973 | TRs | Pics Location: Bellingham,WA |
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D. Inscho
Not bored yet...
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Sun Dec 20, 2020 11:25 am
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Righto! Remmel! Thanks Brushbuffalo (I love those two authors)!
http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/
The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir
“My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/
The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir
“My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
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Get Out and Go Member
Joined: 13 Nov 2004 Posts: 2128 | TRs | Pics Location: Leavenworth |
Up to your usual top-notch standards of photos, narrative, and destination.
"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go."
(Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart)
"Sometimes you're happy. Sometimes you cry.
Half of me is ocean. Half of me is sky."
(Thanks, Tom Petty)
"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go."
(Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart)
"Sometimes you're happy. Sometimes you cry.
Half of me is ocean. Half of me is sky."
(Thanks, Tom Petty)
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