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SwitchbackFisher
Boot buster



Joined: 24 Feb 2018
Posts: 359 | TRs
Location: Wa
SwitchbackFisher
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Boot buster
PostWed Jan 13, 2021 8:30 pm 
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Hey all sorry I been gone for a while life was busy this summer.

Long story short, looking to do st helens soon.  I have aire 1 and know how to use nwac but I find that current information for St Helens summit is not frequently found. It looks like avalanche terrain is fairly easy to avoid on the worm flows route, but was wondering if anyone has experience climbing it around this time of year and has any advice. I know March is more the usual time to climb, but I'd like to avoid the spring crowds. I have all the necessary gear, just wondering if anyone has advice on the climb around January or February, or if anyone has been up recently and has info that would help.

Thanks!

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I may not be the smartest, I may not be the strongest, but I don't want to be. I only want to be the best I can be.
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Randito
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Joined: 27 Jul 2008
Posts: 7691 | TRs
Location: Bellevue at the moment.
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Snarky Member
PostWed Jan 13, 2021 10:37 pm 
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April-June are the most favorable months.   The last time I summited in June I was able to ski to within 10 feet of the Marble Mtn Sno-park.

During the winter months the general snow conditions above timberline is some form of sastrugi due to strong prevaling winds. 

Reccommend ski crampons and at least one self-arrest grip ski pole.

Also stay well back from the crater rim e.g. 50-75 ft at least -- there have been multiple cornice collapse fatalities from people either trying to peer into the crater or get that summit selfie.

https://www.heraldnet.com/news/mount-st-helens-climbers-death-shows-danger-of-cornices/
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Ski
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Joined: 27 May 2005
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Location: tacoma
Ski
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><((((>
PostWed Jan 13, 2021 11:42 pm 
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I went up on May 5th. perfect conditions.
like Randy said: stay back from that rim at the top!!!!

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"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. 
I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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Pyrites
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Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Posts: 1418 | TRs
Location: South Sound
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PostThu Jan 14, 2021 12:22 am 
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Randito,

Thanks for teaching me a new word.

Best.
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SwitchbackFisher
Boot buster



Joined: 24 Feb 2018
Posts: 359 | TRs
Location: Wa
SwitchbackFisher
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Boot buster
PostThu Jan 14, 2021 10:29 am 
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Thanks for the info.  I will keep an eye on conditions and hopefully find a good day to make it happen. I won't be on skis, but snowshoes/crampons with an ice axe.

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I may not be the smartest, I may not be the strongest, but I don't want to be. I only want to be the best I can be.
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babylero
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Joined: 09 Oct 2020
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PostMon Jan 18, 2021 1:14 pm 
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Also planning on going In Early May assuming I can land a permit.
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Kascadia
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Joined: 03 Feb 2014
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PostMon Jan 18, 2021 5:41 pm 
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One will often see trip reports for Helens on WA State Hikers and Climbers (Facebook).

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It is as though I had read a divine text, written into the world itself, not with letters but rather with essential objects, saying:
Man, stretch thy reason hither, so thou mayest comprehend these things. Johannes Kepler
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