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Off Route Randy
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 6:23 pm 
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This is my first go at a trip report because usually I am climbing with Ozzy whom I revere as the trip report master lmao embarassedlaugh.gif I had been getting a little stressed about how long it has been since the last time I had put down some serious gain over some moderate to difficult terrain even though I have been putting in as much work as possible indoors during Covid restrictions. I originally had planned to climb one of the Southern Volcanoes until Hans hit me up to Snowshoe Ruby Mountain which was completely off my radar. After some quick research I could not have been more stoked about the endeavor given the fantastic avalanche conditions. We both agreed upon the Happy Creek route and left the car by 7 am with no urgency due to the extreme cold temps  hockeygrin.gif We parked at the SR-20 road closure gate. From there we hoofed out the short road walk while overshooting our turn off by 5 minutes. Stoke was super high because it had been awhile since Hans and I climbed together and it was already looking like a blue bird day at first light. We were able to gain about 2200 feet in elevation before we had to strap on Snowshoes. Shortly after we came across a considerably sized avalanche field that was rock hard and icy. Hans had opted to leave Crampons in the car while I opted to bring mine due to Mesahchie and Katsuk claiming my ice axe as a summit toll. We were both a bit worried about that decision considering how insanely cold it was and conditions looking like things would only get icier. How wrong I was about that assumption. After traversing over to the ridge the snow conditions got troublesome (shout out Hans for breaking trail the whole way). I had trouble with my water bladder and hose freezing up so I was pretty much dry the entire way until the last summit push where I just chugged straight from my main bladder opening. This created some cramping issues but it was entirely too cold to slow down my pace or stop for the most part. The ascent up the ridge was frustrating to say the least. There was a hard 2 inch ice crust that would collapse 5-8 inches down every 2-4 steps. Getting purchase with Snowshoes was a chore on the steeper sections. There was plenty of "Whoompfing" and at certain points I was kicking down 3-5 foot sections of 6 inch deep slabs. I would have been a bit more worried but the weak layer wasn't deep at all and any avalanche triggered wouldn't have been that consequential in my unprofessional opinion  embarassedlaugh.gif  The higher we got the better the snow conditions were until we hit the final NE ridge. Given how cold it was Hans had the big brain idea to throw on all the layers we had before the last few hundred feet to the summit to build as much heat as possible to maximize our time on the summit. On our way to the summit we were shocked to see another party of 3 on their way up behind us. We powered down our cylindrical shaped Devil's Lettuce on the summit before their arrival out of courtesy. They thanked us (Hans) for breaking trail for them and eagerly started making their way back down. We decided to watch to see how they would fare plunge stepping their way down without Snowshoes to see how the most efficient way of descent would be. They made it down quite fast so we decided we would take our time off the summit and let them break trail on the softer snow. We also kind of figured we might overtake some of the party and wanted to avoid that scenario. After losing a couple thousand feet things started to get really post-holey. It would be 3-5 steps of solid walking on compacted snow and a sneaky post hole varying from 6 inches-waist deep. Solid enough to say f***k snowshoes (out of stubborness) but deep enough to question the decision making/level of exertion. After making it down to where we had about 2000 feet of elevation left to lose is where things got unexpectedly tricky. The soft forest covered snow we had ascended had turned into a minefield of solid patches of ice. You could plunge step a couple of steps and end up slamming your heel on to solid ice the next. This section ended up being insanely slow going compared to expectations. We somehow ended up over taking 2/3 of the other summit party on this section but not without slamming to the ground 15+ times between the two of us before making back down to the road. After all the contemplation on what gear we might need it turned out that Micro-spikes, Snowshoes, and Poles was all we WOULD HAVE needed. Figured there is plenty of beta on this mountain so I didn't feel the need to be detailed on navigational stuff with this TR. Car to summit: 6 hours. Summit: 1 hour rest. Summit to Car: 3 hours

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"Bagging Peaks and Clapping Cheeks"- Ricky Bobby's Mountain Obsessed Cousin
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Gimpilator
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 6:34 pm 
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Thanks for the report.  That's a nice peak to get in January.   up.gif  up.gif

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Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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Off Route Randy
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 6:49 pm 
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Thanks man! Just trying to catch up with the gnarly people like yourself on this site! dizzy.gif

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"Bagging Peaks and Clapping Cheeks"- Ricky Bobby's Mountain Obsessed Cousin
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TheWanderingIndian
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 8:28 pm 
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Incredible picture man! Hozmeen looks wicked
Repulsive69 wrote:
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KascadeFlat
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 8:39 pm 
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Wow wow WOW! What an awesome trip in perfect weather. Way to work for it! up.gif

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For a good time call: 1-800-SLD-ALDR.
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Off Route Randy
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 9:27 pm 
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Thanks dude! Loved your TR on Oval Pk.!!

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"Bagging Peaks and Clapping Cheeks"- Ricky Bobby's Mountain Obsessed Cousin
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Off Route Randy
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 9:31 pm 
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To say it was clear but cold would be an understatement! I have dealt with cold weather temps before but never I have I dealt with this cold of temps as soon as you step out the vehicle!

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"Bagging Peaks and Clapping Cheeks"- Ricky Bobby's Mountain Obsessed Cousin
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iron
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 10:00 pm 
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how many of the 69 do you have complete?
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Off Route Randy
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PostFri Jan 29, 2021 10:09 pm 
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Honestly the only reason I named this profile like this was to hopefully find someone who has the whole list. After climbing Repulse; a fire has been lit inside of me to climb the chossiest and gnarliest peaks I can in order to have a prayer to knock out a good portion of this mythical list. I am not really into chasing list as whole to be honest. Except for this one.

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"Bagging Peaks and Clapping Cheeks"- Ricky Bobby's Mountain Obsessed Cousin
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ozzy
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PostSat Jan 30, 2021 7:38 am 
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Sick peak buddy! rocker.gif  Yall had to earn that one for sure! Nice first TR man...now we can take turns writing them up! lol.gif Cheers!

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Milk is for babies. When you grow up you have to drink beer. -Arnold
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awilsondc
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PostSat Jan 30, 2021 11:36 am 
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Killer trip man!  I need to get up there.  How far was the road walk portion?  That's what's held me back from getting this one in winter... I love that view of Hozomeen with Ross Lake in the foreground!  Thanks for writing this up!  up.gif  up.gif
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Off Route Randy
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PostSat Jan 30, 2021 12:06 pm 
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Thanks man! Road walk is not far at all. About a mile at most and there are a few spots along the way if you wanna cut in earlier. If you get prime snow conditions I'm sure a guy like you can C2C in 7-8 hours. If you got Ski's probably even faster which would be nice considering the long drive and limited daylight.

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"Bagging Peaks and Clapping Cheeks"- Ricky Bobby's Mountain Obsessed Cousin
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Sepultura
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PostMon Feb 01, 2021 6:14 pm 
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https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/61319-tr-meulefire-and-indecision-east-face-822008/

Here is a little back story/history of the Repulsive 69 in lore Choss Aficionados! Itís kinda like Fight Club.... no rules and an ever changing list being pursued by those who choose summits of un savory and seldom visited nature.

The keepers of this faith often call themselves
Choss Dog Millionaires, and out of respect for the flagship peak, Repulse, the Repulsive 69 was loosely created. A list rumored to be started by legendary OG Dallas Kloke. Itís content is not fully known or understood and is open to interpretation. Certain folks claim to know the full content of this list, but it seems to be an ever changing organic thing that changes as various peaks get added or booted from it depending on there unpleasant nature. The only thing that holds true is that there can only be 69 and they cannot be included in any list of Selected or Classic Cascades climbs, in short they need to be repulsive.

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/70545-tr-repulse-original-9122009/

Go forth Repulsive 69
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Ruby Mountain via Happy Creek 1/23
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