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rubywrangler Member
Joined: 04 Aug 2015 Posts: 509 | TRs | Pics
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I've been wanting to do a Bailey Range trip for awhile now, and had been considering making a loop with this route (Fairchild basin) and the regular gully route in order to do it solo, but this year I finally persuaded Julia to come along. She invited her brother Dave to join. Our original plan was for 6 days, but we all had enough flexibility to take one extra day. Good thing! Since jupsal just posted a report that covers most of the same territory, I'll try to focus on the parts they didn't cover and summarize/photo dump the rest.
Day 0
Met Julia and Dave at Quinault Lodge. Since 2/3 of us had gotten delayed in a massive traffic jam, we decided to sleep in our cars at the North Fork Quinault trailhead and head to Sol Duc in the morning.
Day 1 - Sol Duc to High Divide
Saw an elk on the road near North Fork campground. Had breakfast in Forks, then headed to Sol Duc TH which was hopping at 10am. And very smoky. Hit the trail under hazy skies and strong fire smells at 11. It was hot. Our spirits lifted when we reached lower bridge creek camp, then lush sol duc park, then heart lake. Funny grouse there. After a long break, filled up with water and finished climbing to the high divide. Made camp in a damp, buggy meadow. Mosquitoes very bad.
heart lake first hazy view of olympus
Day 2 - High Divide to Fairchild Basin
Original plan was to get all the way to Stephen basin on this day. It was hot and smoky again. We were moving by 7, quickly crossed the catwalk, and headed up to Carrie. The final bit of the climb was a bootpath across steep scree slopes, with one short path-less section where you just have to cross your fingers and hope the rubber on your shoes sticks to the steep, hard dirt. Beyond that a little bit of class 2/3 scrambling to the summit ridge and then easy walk to the summit.
on the catwalk climbing up from boston charlie carrie's sw slope all scree from here on julia & dave climbing carrie fairchild glacier
A couple parties had previously reported descending the snow ridge in the middle of the Fairchild glacier. From Carrie's summit, the glacier looked a little uglier overall than it had in Ozzy's report a couple weeks earlier. But the snow ridge looked fine and did not appear to be that steep from above. Also, Dave had really not enjoyed Carrie's scree slopes and was adamant that we should not go back and take the normal gully route. So, we continued down the SE ridge and found a cairn marking an easy passage onto the glacier. The snow ridge looked steeper up close, and at this point I learned that Dave had zero experience with an ice axe or crampons or microspikes. Crap. And still, he did not want to turn around. But neither did I, and I rationalized that as long as he stayed on the snow ridge, it was doable. We had a quick ice axe lesson and stressed that he should position himself such that if he fell, he would go south, to the lower angle side of the glacier with no visible crevasses in the fall zone. Not a good solution, I know. Both Julia and I were incredibly nervous. Also, I was pretty mad that this information had not been shared earlier when I sent them the route map. Anyway, we made it down with no falls.
top of the glacier - steeper than it looks julia & dave descending fairchild glacier very gray lake
We took a break on a rock island at 6250, and after many sighs of relief, continued down on rock and snow to ~5800, where the main lobe of the glacier pretty much ends now. I poked around for a route down the moraine, which is dominated by huge smooth rock mounds with steep cliffs on the downhill side, and began to get nervous again. The two previous reports on this route were in significantly different (higher) snow conditions, even though one of them was in late August. Finally, we found a short stream gully just right of the large center rock mound. We scrambled down and then it was easy scree to the basin. Views were spectacular, even in the smoky haze. We wandered around looking for a campsite but eventually circled back to a previously-used site we had passed. Mosquitoes were present but not terrible IMO. We had only accomplished half of the day's planned route and were exhausted. The sound of Fairchild creek lulled me to sleep quickly.
working our way down looking back fairchild glacier very happy to find a way down the moraine! descending the moraine fairchild basin; hurricane ridge in the haze striped rock fairchild basin fairchild basin
Day 3 - Fairchild basin to Stephen basin
I woke up having no idea how this day would go. The lack of snow compared to the previous reports scared me a lot. But at least the smoke had mostly cleared.
fairchild basin sunrise
From our camp at ~5300, we climbed a couple hundred feet northeast to a flat spot below the eastern lobe of the fairchild glacier. Then we basically followed the outlet stream up to a flat snowfield and traversed that north to the edge of the glacier where it meets a rocky ridge. We skirted the edge of the glacier and passed one ramp on the left, took a short detour to check out a pretty lake, then climbed a little further up the edge of the glacier and found a wonderful second ramp that provided easy passage across the ridge and up to higher snowfields. I think this ramp was around 6000' or just below. I was so happy to find a way over the ridge that I forgot to take note of the details. From that point it was easy travel on rock and snow to a pass at 6450 with views to Stephen lake! (FYI, this part of the route is incorrectly marked on the map in one of the earlier reports.) We took a long break at the saddle and texted all of our emergency contacts that we would be out an extra day. Weird place to have cell service.
heading toward e lobe of fairchild glacier; our route went up left and around the snowfield key ramp e fairchild glacier fairchild e glacier pano
only a couple snowfields to the pass now climbing the second snowfield stephen lake from the pass
We descended a steepish scree slope to a little knob, then went right to more scree, some solid rock, steep hard dirt, then a rocky meadow slope before coming to a basin. Both earlier reports have good photos of this section. After crossing this basin, which had awesome flower fields, we followed animal trails to another basin northeast of Stephen lake, and picked up a bootpath that led us up and over a little ridge to the lake. I was in shock for a moment because a) I couldn't believe we had actually made it, and b) Stephen basin is STUNNING. Especially now, with a massive lupine explosion and magenta paintbrush and so many other flowers contrasting with the green leaves and the turquoise lake. Mosquitoes not bad.
descended this scree slope to the knob at lower left and then went right lower meadow slopes another look back at our descent route descending some more stephen basin stephen basin
Day 4 - Stephen basin to Ferry basin
We skipped Stephen peak due to incoming weather. A huge amount of elk poop on the snowfield on Stephen's east slope, but no elk. Took the ridge route to Ferry basin. Saw one very large bear on the ridge right after we dropped off it. Made it to the tarn above Lake Pulitzer just as the drizzle turned into real rain and threw our tents up as fast as possible in the first semi-wind-sheltered spot we could find. The rain stopped and clouds cleared after a few hours but the fog hung around awhile longer. No bugs.
leaving stephen basin another look at our descent route and interesting clouds ascended middle gully @ center, then traversed left to another gully looking down the first gully stephen lake stephen lake & surroundings snowfields on stephen's ne slope our route went to the flat snowfield with rock island @ upper right elk poop everywhere ridge trail and cloudy ferry basin heading toward ferry basin ferry basin ferry basin lake crossing snow to get around the pulitzer tarn pulitzer tarn camp & clouds mt. ferry lake pulitzer
Day 5 - Ferry basin to Queets basin
Planned a sunrise hike to Mt. Ferry but woke up to fog at 5am, went back to bed. Still foggy at 6...7...8...9...finally decided to skip it, and headed out of camp at 10:30. Clouds and fog cleared an hour or so later. Ascending from lone tree pass, we followed footprints up the left side of the snowfield, but 2 guys came from behind us and flew by up the rocky ridge on the right side, so that's probably a better choice. I did not want to tempt fate twice so we dropped down and went around the Childs glacier instead of traversing across. The rest of the day was an easy, super scenic ridge walk for the most part. Dave had a yard sale to dry his stuff while Julia and I climbed Mt. Barnes. Great views, well worth the short trip. Camped near the tarn west of Dodwell-Rixon pass. Had dinner overlooking Mt Olympus and lower queets basin, capping off a day of spectacular views! Just a few mosquitoes.
long way down to goldie basin climbing up from lone tree pass. we went left of the snowfield, but based on how quickly 2 guys passed us, right is likely easier. childs & tarn 2 guys on childs glacier childs glacier childs glacier lunch spot view approaching bear pass bear pass peak barnes, christie, seattle, meany, queets climbing barnes olympus and tarns from barnes upper queets basin lower queets basin dinner spot view: lower queets basin & olympus
Day 6 - Queets basin to Sixteenmile
Before we headed out of camp I climbed up above the tarn to see what I could of the route from queets basin to saghalie basin (for a future skyline to whiskey bend traverse... someday...). I found another tarn and more great views of queets basin from pt 5130. Then we headed down to the Elwha snow finger, which is in great shape. There is one moderately dicey snowbridge a couple hundred feet below DRP, and one place (second to last snowfield when descending) where it is a little difficult to get off the snow - we stayed left and found a faint path across the adjacent steep slope, then descended a short, rocky gully. I found some dropped gear on the ESF and packed it out 20 MILES. If you lost something, PM me and I'll think about returning it.
sunrise on olympus sunrise on olympus upper tarn above 4840 tarn w of dodwell rixon pass upper queets basin & tarn from pt 5130 olympus & 4840 tarn descending the snowfinger beginnings of the elwha descending the snowfinger - we went up the left side here mt queets from the big snow hump
Just below the ESF we ran into three guys on their way up and traded info on our respective routes ahead. There is a big cairn marking the path to elwha basin - stay left of it - and the path looks to have been brushed out recently. THANK YOU to whoever did that! It is now more of a moderately overgrown trail than a bushwhack, and quite easy to follow. Before long we popped out into pretty Elwha basin, beneath several cascades coming down from Mt Queets. The bootpath fades in and out as it descends but I nominated our best trail sniffer (Julia) to take the lead here, and we had no issues. Shortly after we crossed the Elwha and hit real, maintained trail we encountered another little bear, a teenager probably, about 30 feet off the trail.
cairn marking the start of the way trail elwha basin elwha basin falls elwha basin elwha basin
From then on it was pretty smooth sailing up to Low Divide and down to 16mile. Well, the climb up to low divide was kind of a butt-kicker at that point in the trip. But huge and delicious berries as the trail begins to level off at low divide/lake mary made up for it. We took a break up near the ranger station and chatted with the ranger there. Sounds like they've had their hands full since the COVID quotas were lifted in July. He mentioned that Enchanted Valley has been seeing 200 people per night and on the Skyline something like 30 people vying for the same campsite. Yikes. I would not be surprised if those quotas come back... Sixteenmile was fine except for the tiny gnats that chowed down on all our feet and ankles while we ate dinner on the river bank. No mosquitoes though.
lake mary lake margaret side canyon of the nf quinault fungus
Day 7 - Sixteenmile to NF Quinault
Awesome forest, huge trees, pretty river, car beers still cold!, burgers at Quinault lodge, a long drive.
end
Thanks to Julia and Dave for coming along on this adventure and trusting in my route planning skills! I am so happy everything worked out! And a big thank you to the folks who have posted TRs on the BRT in the past (AA, RAW-dad, mountainflamingo, and many others) and especially those long lost members who posted on the Fairchild basin route!
~Postscript~
In memory of Buddy, Julia's pup and my and Ruby's hiking buddy who crossed the rainbow bridge right before we left Seattle. I know Ruby was waiting on the other side to show him the best snow patches and grossest stuff to roll around in. He was a good boy who lived a long, happy life and we will miss him.
buddy
gymcarrey, jaysway, zimmertr, hot.choss, Route Loser, Olympic Hiker, Slim, ozzy, RichP, Dave Weyrick, reststep, meck, Tom, Anne Elk, drewcoll, Hesman, fffej50, IanB, Sculpin, raising3hikers, Kenji kite, silence awilsondc, geyer
gymcarrey, jaysway, zimmertr, hot.choss, Route Loser, Olympic Hiker, Slim, ozzy, RichP, Dave Weyrick, reststep, meck, Tom, Anne Elk, drewcoll, Hesman, fffej50, IanB, Sculpin, raising3hikers, Kenji kite, silence awilsondc, geyer
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:49 am
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A most excellent report ... plus your photos are stunning. Living the trip thru your words and eyes was exhilarating. Getting to some of those basins has always been a dream ... they are even more alluring now. But, sadly impossible to reach at our age. Thanks for sharing the beauty and ruggedness of the Olys!
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
rubywrangler
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
rubywrangler
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neek Member
Joined: 12 Sep 2011 Posts: 2329 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle, WA |
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neek
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Thu Aug 26, 2021 10:08 am
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Double_E Member
Joined: 21 Jul 2005 Posts: 36 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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Double_E
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Thu Aug 26, 2021 10:54 am
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Damn. Nicely done. This is the stuff that dreams are made of.
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Tomlike Member
Joined: 22 Jun 2010 Posts: 407 | TRs | Pics
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Tomlike
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Thu Aug 26, 2021 10:55 am
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fantastic report! the Fairchild/Stephen bypass is absolutely the more scenic route, thanks for documenting it! If you want beta on the route from QB to the Skyline send me a PM, I've been through a couple of times...
silence
silence
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fourteen410 Member
Joined: 23 May 2008 Posts: 2622 | TRs | Pics
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Fantastic! Loved the video of the ptarmigan (or grouse?) on the trail.
RIP Buddy, but glad he'll have companionship with Ruby. It's so hard losing a pup. I miss seeing Ruby in your TRs - I could tell that you two had a really special bond.
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rubywrangler Member
Joined: 04 Aug 2015 Posts: 509 | TRs | Pics
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I miss having Ruby in my trip reports! I thought it was a female sooty grouse and kiddos, but I could definitely be wrong. There are a couple more videos of them on flickr.
Tomlike, I will definitely be taking you up on that offer.
Thanks everybody for the likes and comments!
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Foist Sultan of Sweat
Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 3974 | TRs | Pics Location: Back! |
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Foist
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Thu Aug 26, 2021 5:06 pm
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Spectacular photos and report. Thanks for taking good care of my cousins!
Edited to add: I liked Buddy too, he was very fun on hikes. Nice tribute.
rubywrangler
rubywrangler
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Ravenridge22 Member
Joined: 21 Jun 2017 Posts: 56 | TRs | Pics Location: Terra Incognita |
Thanks for the wonderful pictures and report!
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
Your pic from bear pass peak towards Olympus is amazing. Another spot I gotta get to. Thanks for sharing your trip
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Backpacker Joe Blind Hiker
Joined: 16 Dec 2001 Posts: 23956 | TRs | Pics Location: Cle Elum |
Wonderful trip and report.
"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide."
— Abraham Lincoln
"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide."
— Abraham Lincoln
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benneke Member
Joined: 15 Sep 2018 Posts: 35 | TRs | Pics
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benneke
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Sun Aug 29, 2021 9:08 am
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Great read, the photo from Bear Pass Peak is stunning
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gb Member
Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Posts: 6303 | TRs | Pics
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gb
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Sun Aug 29, 2021 1:09 pm
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That is a great trip report with great images that show or suggest lots of routefinding choices at various parts of the trip. My one Bailey Range traverse in September 1994 solo was via Long Ridge and out the Elwha. That late in the year on a similarly dry year, on ascending Barnes, I looked down onto the Elwha Snowfinger and judged it to be very broken up. I followed game trails NW along the ridge past Barnes until a very good game trail dropped directly towards Chicago camp. The last 1000' had a a dozen or more downed old snags and brush to about the waist level; but it was not bad. I also went to Cream Lake (brushy the last mile and not worth the trip) another trip.
At Dodwell-Rixon I encountered a lone hiker, pack-less, and wearing blue jeans and a cotton sweatshirt! I wondered what the heck? But on talking to him, he confided that he did Carrie as a daytrip more than once; so....
I did not carry crampons (they were steel back then) and waited for softening to cross a couple of snowfields and the Bear Glacier. The low angle Bear Glacier was all ice.
From Dodwell-Rixon I attempted Queets directly up it's glacier - which was also all bare ice. I worked up the left side of the glacier on rock but about 800' up encountered a steep, smooth slab that looked to be about 5.4 - ok to climb, but not descend. Beyond that looked it like a good route up Queets. When snow-covered the Queets Glacier would not be difficult, but the snout back then was fairly steep.
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RAW-dad Member
Joined: 07 Jul 2017 Posts: 119 | TRs | Pics Location: Oregon |
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RAW-dad
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Mon Aug 30, 2021 1:25 pm
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jaysway Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2020 Posts: 345 | TRs | Pics
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jaysway
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Mon Aug 30, 2021 2:14 pm
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Absolutely amazing. Thank you for sharing.
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