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rubywrangler Member
Joined: 04 Aug 2015 Posts: 509 | TRs | Pics
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(Spring 2021 Sierra trips, vol 2.)
I had a permit for Kearsarge Pass in Inyo NF to hike into SEKI in the first week of June and initially planned to do a lollipop variation of the Rae lakes loop. Then while perusing trip reports on highsierratopix, I learned about another loop option in the same general area, the Gardiner pass loop, which climbs to Gardiner basin from Charlotte lake and then crosses 60 lake basin to get to Rae lakes. This loop was appealing because it stays high whereas on the Rae loop I would have dropped to woods creek, bubbs creek, etc. But one segment of the alt. route - Charlotte lake to Gardiner pass - sounded pretty unpleasant. Previously there was a trail, but it has been abandoned and avalanches have made it a steep, rough off-trail route. So instead of doing that I made a different loop from Glen Pass to Rae lakes, 60 lake and Gardiner basins via 3 off-trail passes and one summit carryover. This all will make much more sense if you look at the "rae" route on this map. Anyway, this plan seemed doable in 5 days. I ended up condensing it into 3.5 days due to voracious mosquitoes. It was hard. But incredibly beautiful.
Day 1: Onion Valley trailhead to Rae lakes via Kearsarge Pass + Glen Pass
The day started with permit shenanigans. Mine was not where I was told it would be left for pickup and the Inyo permit office was not answering their phone. I called around to every ranger station until I reached a super nice woman named Betty Jo in Mammoth Lakes who emailed it to me. But the only printer I could find in Bishop was a photo printer at the pharmacy, so I hit the trail with a glossy 4x6 permit at 11am. In addition to some dayhikers there were tons of PCT hikers getting off or back on the trail. I guess I've perfected my ultralight hiker trash look because they all thought I was one of them.
I had hiked to Kearsarge Pass in the fall but beyond that was new territory. West of the pass, the trail splits, with the left branch going to Kearsarge lakes and right branch staying higher and going up valley. I took the right branch and was delighted by the views of Bullfrog lake and into the park. Eventually I hit the PCT and climbed up and over Glen pass to Rae lakes. The were lots of campers on the south end of the middle lake but almost no one beyond that. I passed a couple deer grazing in a little meadow and set up camp near the end of the peninsula on the north end of the middle lake. It was 7pm at this point - too late for happy hour - so I had a margarita appetizer and watched the sun set. Mosquitos were present but not really biting. Rae lakes is such a pretty spot.
descending from kearsarge pass kearsarge lakes bullfrog lake starting the climb to glen pass view from glen pass rae lakes rae lakes rae camp
Day 2: Rae lakes to 60 lakes basin via Arrowhead lake & Basin notch, Gardiner Basin via Mt Cotter
By 8am I was heading north on PCT to Arrowhead lake. Passed through really pretty meadows with more grazing deer just before the lake. After the trail crossed over the outlet, I left it and headed west toward basin notch, an off-trail class 2 pass that leads to 60 lake basin. Once below the notch, there are several bootpaths coming from different directions; they all converge eventually. An easy couple hundred feet of climbing and I popped out on a ridge above the basin. I descended to the lakes and headed north, circling around the largest lake and then heading back south on the west shore. This basin is gorgeous! But the mosquitos were TERRIBLE and I could not stop moving without being swarmed - I was so glad I had a headnet, and so annoyed to re-discover that Sawyer permethrin spray is ineffective. Went back to soaking everything in a stronger solution as soon as I got back to Seattle.
rae lakes before sunrise rae lakes first light leaving camp near arrowhead lake fin dome climbing to basin notch view from the notch 60 lake basin 60 lake basin 60 lake basin 60 lake basin 60 lake basin
My plan had been to camp in 60 lake basin and make a side trip to Mt Cotter, but I decided to take my chances that the bugs would be better in Gardiner basin and keep going. After a very quick lunch in the windiest spot I could find (not very), I hiked around lake 10400 and started up the SE slope of Mt Cotter. It was a fun route zig zagging up granite ramps and slabs, with occasional cairns to follow. Plus, bugs were tolerable once I got above the lakes and into the breeze. After a few hundred feet I popped out on a bench overlooking a couple small tarns. The SE slope ahead looked more rubbly so I weaved my way through some trees and a little bit of slidey sandy terrain up to the east ridge instead, and followed it all the way to the summit ridge. It was class 2, with optional class 3 near the top.
leaving 60 lake basin leaving 60 lake basin climbing looking down to 60 lake basin from cotter e. ridge cotter e ridge, mt clarence king in the back
I stashed my pack at the intersection of the east and south ridges for the fun summit ridge scramble. At the base of the summit block, cairns led me up and around to the NE for the final climb to the summit (exposed class 3). It took me a few tries to commit to the exposed parts and make sure I would be able to get back down, but eventually I made it up to top… of a giant block that was not the summit. It was immediately obvious that a corner of another slab a few feet away stuck up a couple feet higher. But it was after 4pm at this point and I was pretty exhausted so I didn't bother scrambling over to it. Which of course now I regret.
cotter summit ridge summit block ridge to mt. clarence king summit rock east ridge & summit ridge lake 11407 mt gardiner
After a few quick phone photos I headed back to my pack, followed the south ridge down about 100 ft, and descended the SW slope. It was not fun - unstable boulders, steep hard dirt, etc. I scree surfed as much as possible but it took a long time to reach the lake basin. Once I got to solid ground I traversed west over grass and granite slabs around the largest lake in Gardiner basin (11407) and a few smaller lakes, and set up camp in a scenic spot on a high bench near a small lake, with a view of Mt Gardiner. It was about 7pm by the time I got to camp. Missed happy hour again! Fortunately the mosquitoes were much better in this area so I was able to explore Gardiner basin a bit before sunset. Then I ate a quick dinner and passed out.
gardiner basin gardiner basin gardiner basin cotter at sunset
Day 3: Gardiner Basin to Kearsarge lakes via 60 lake col and Rae col
It was a struggle but I woke up for sunrise photos, then headed back toward lake 11407. The east side of the lake is basically a giant boulder field, and I was thrilled to find a very faint path ~10-25' from the shore which saved a ton of time and effort. Back at the trailhead the next day I met another hiker who had done the Gardiner pass loop; he vowed that he would never go back to Gardiner basin because of this boulder field (his group did not find the path). Once through the boulder field I followed the path of least resistance, staying close to the east slopes of the basin, and found a fun series of class 2 granite ramps and ledges that led me to within 10' of 60 lake col. A short scramble took me to the col where the views are grand but mosquitos were waiting, ugh.
groggy sunrise photo attempt sun rising over cotter, camp was on the far side of the far lake lake 11407 gardiner basin route to 60 lake col view from near the col
The east side of the col is a series of big granite ledges so I was pretty sure I would get cliffed out eventually, but I just kept going down and left and it went. I worked my way down to the outlet of lake 10840 and around the west shore and back to lake 10400, where I picked up the trail that goes to Rae lakes. The mosquitoes were thick again so I didn't linger there. Eventually I left the trail and worked around a couple more lakes and up toward Rae col on snow and scree. The top 100' climb is on a steep, narrow path up slippery rubble. The east side is much gentler terrain and there was a blessedly strong wind so I finally got a bug-free break at lake 11560. After lunch I descended to another bunch of pretty lakes below glen pass and went around the south side and up to the PCT on scree.
ledges into 60 lake basin 60 lake basin looking back from rae col lunch spot lakes below glen pass rae col from glen pass
I stayed on the PCT past the junction with Kearsarge pass trail I had hiked in on, and headed toward Bullfrog lake. Some nice views into Bubbs creek valley on the way, but unfortunately most of the mountains were shrouded in clouds when I got to the lake. According to the map the trail does not connect Bullfrog and Kearsarge lakes which seems odd. So I left the trail on an obvious path which ended at the lowest Kearsarge lake, where there were a handful of folks camping. I climbed up a little ridge through open forest and popped out at the middle lake. It was super windy but I found a nice protected campsite on a peninsula. And made it in time for happy hour!
bullfrog lake trail from bullfrog to kearsarge kearsarge lakes
Day 4: Kearsarge lakes to Onion Valley TH
After waiting for frost on the tent to melt and dry, I made the short trip back up and over Kearsarge pass to Onion Valley. Saw a HUGE alpine bunny rabbit leaving Kearsarge lakes! Again mistaken for a thru hiker several times. While enjoying post-hike refreshments in the parking lot, I met the guy mentioned earlier. He had done the loop over Gardiner pass and he confirmed my suspicions about that route.
leaving kearsarge lakes kearsarge lakes
This trip was really incredible and although there was a good amount of XC travel, the terrain was not too difficult. But between bugs, weird boot issues and altitude, I found it to be pretty tough overall. Would probably be better with another day or 2 and fewer bugs. In any case so gorgeous!!
36 mi
~12,200 ft
All the photos
Slim, Seventy2002, belowfellow, Silas, olderthanIusedtobe, williswall, NWtrax, Nancyann, Waterman, kite, RichP awilsondc, GaliWalker
Slim, Seventy2002, belowfellow, Silas, olderthanIusedtobe, williswall, NWtrax, Nancyann, Waterman, kite, RichP awilsondc, GaliWalker
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GaliWalker Have camera will use
Joined: 10 Dec 2007 Posts: 4916 | TRs | Pics Location: Pittsburgh |
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
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Tue Jan 11, 2022 6:15 am
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Amazing! Great photos.
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Waterman Member
Joined: 21 Mar 2015 Posts: 582 | TRs | Pics Location: Big Snow Quadrangle |
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Waterman
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Tue Jan 11, 2022 8:53 am
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One lifetime isn't enough.
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I,I took the one less traveled by. And that has made all the difference.
Robert Frost
olderthanIusedtobe, Nancyann
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I,I took the one less traveled by. And that has made all the difference.
Robert Frost
olderthanIusedtobe, Nancyann
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Nancyann Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2013 Posts: 2313 | TRs | Pics Location: Sultan Basin |
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Nancyann
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Tue Jan 11, 2022 12:50 pm
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What a beautiful, magical area! Another section of the Sierras I would like to experience! That’s frustrating about the mosquitoes though. I bought a lightweight but sturdy mosquito netting jacket from Sea to Summit last summer and basically lived in it for five days during a July trip in the Glacier Peak Wilderness and it was really a game changer for me.
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NorDub Member
Joined: 17 Jul 2015 Posts: 56 | TRs | Pics Location: Redmond |
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NorDub
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Tue Jan 11, 2022 1:18 pm
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Wow, incredible! What a cool place.
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rubywrangler Member
Joined: 04 Aug 2015 Posts: 509 | TRs | Pics
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Thanks everybody! It is a really spectacular part of the Sierra.
Nancyann, good thinking on the mosquito jacket. Typically I treat my clothes with permethrin using Steve's method once at the beginning of the season and that works great. The Sawyer spray seemed like an easier option while on the road, but it is totally worthless!!
Malachai Constant, Nancyann
Malachai Constant, Nancyann
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5082 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Tue Jan 11, 2022 5:36 pm
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olderthanIusedtobe Member
Joined: 05 Sep 2011 Posts: 7687 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
Gorgeous! That's been on my to do list for a while. I day hiked to Kearsarge Pass and Lakes, but the timing wasn't so great. It was right after I had a bit of an accident and I had a bad wing, wasn't quite feeling up to backpacking for the rest of that trip to Cali.
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Chief Joseph Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2007 Posts: 7676 | TRs | Pics Location: Verlot-Priest Lake |
Nice! My hiking partner has 2 permits for Rae lakes I think late June, but given this is a heavy snow year, not sure how that will go.
I agree with you on the Permethrin, I don't think it helps and won't be buying it again.
Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
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contour5 Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2003 Posts: 2962 | TRs | Pics
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contour5
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Tue Jan 11, 2022 10:46 pm
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The Sierras are such an astoundingly perfect mixture of, geology, latitude, climate and elevation.
Thanks for the trip report!
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