Forum Index > Trip Reports > 35 peaks in 16 days, WA/OR/ID/MT/WY - July/Aug 2017
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Gimpilator
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Gimpilator
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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 4:58 pm 
Introduction Our primary objectives were Granite, Grand Teton, Gannett, and Kings. The first week was forecasted for perfect weather everywhere. Josh suggested we go for the main peaks first and in hindsight I should have listened to him, but that would have been inefficient in terms of driving so we did some warm-up hikes first. Below is a list of the peaks we did. None of the main goals were accomplished due to a week of thunderstorms. The trip took a completely different direction away from our initial plans and away from the bad weather. Sometimes in peakbagging you have to be flexible and redefine what constitutes success. We are very happy with the results. Mount Spokane - 5883' WA Hoodoo Mountain - 5119' ID Baldy Mountain - 7464' MT Red Mountain - 10,070' MT Peak 10136 - 10,136' MT Table Mountain - 10,223' MT Crazy Peak - 11,209' MT Mount Edith - 9480' MT Big Pryor Mountain - 8786' MT Shriver Benchmark - 8780' MT East Pryor Mountain - 8776' MT Cloud Peak - 13,167' WY Heaven's Gate - 8429' ID He Devil - 9400' ID She Devil - 9400' ID Mount Baal - 9160' ID Tower of Babel - 9200' ID Mount Belial - 8880' ID Devil's Throne - 9280' ID Twin Imps - 9000' ID The Ogre - 9256' ID The Goblin - 8985' ID Eagle Cap - 9572' OR Moccasin Lake Peak - 8441' OR Sacajawea Peak - 9838' OR Matterhorn Ridge - 9775' OR Matterhorn - 9826' OR Aneroid North Peak - 9440' OR Aneroid Mountain - 9702' OR Dollar Lake Peak - 9080' OR Pete’s Point - 9675' OR South Sister - 10,358' OR Broken Top - 9175' OR North Sister - 10,085' OR Middle Sister - 10,047' OR Note: Image captions will be forthcoming if I have time. August 18 Mount Spokane - 5883’ The first day was a driving day but we were able to get 3 peaks on the way to Montana, all very short hikes. Somehow I had forgotten that Mount Spokane had a remaining fire lookout structure.
Hoodoo Mountain - 5119’ You can see Hoodoo from Mount Spokane, across the valley in Idaho. We didn’t stay on the summit long because of the communications towers and radiation exposure.
Baldy Mountain - 7464’ This was a 4 mile hike and our first Montana Peak. I was looking forward to the view of McDonald, where I had been with Martin and Dave 2 years prior, but smoky air made for mediocre views. We all carried bear spray on the Montana peaks, something I never do in WA.
August 19 Red Mountain - 10,070' A scenic high point on the ridge you must pass over on the route to Table Mountain.
Peak 10136 - 10,136' Summit cairns and use trails on these initial two peaks suggest that most people don’t continue all the way to Table.
Table Mountain - 10,223' This is some lovely high country. The Montana high alpine has a different feel than other places I have been.
July 20 Crazy Peak - 11,209' The basin above the lakes is scenic and I felt tempted to return to this area in the future for some of the other peaks in the range. Above the basin we gained the west ridge and followed it to the false summit, scrambling class 3 at times.
From the false summit we scrambled down a narrow chimney gulley and then took ledges around to the south face before heading up to the summit. It was a very fun route. We were tempted to hit Iddings Peak on the way out, but the heat was oppressive. Michael was so hot that he wallowed in a little creek, fully soaking his clothes.
July 21 Mount Edith – 9480’ Mike badly sun-burned his legs the precious day and all movement was painful so he decided to take a rest day before the next big hike. Josh and I hiked up Mount Edith in the morning.
Big Pryor Mountain – 8786’ The Prior Mountains have numerous caves in the limestone and several are substantially large. Josh and I took the time to explore a few between visiting the various high points.
Shriver Benchmark – 8780’ This peak is just an easy walk from the main peak.
East Pryor Mountain – 8776’ The crux of this peak is definitely the drive. Big rocks and very slow progress. July 22-23 Cloud Peak - 13,167’ Our first Wyoming peak and first overnight. We didn’t get to the trailhead until late morning and started our hike at 11:30 but were still able to make it to the summit on day 1. It’s a very pretty area once you get up to the lakes and there is a lot of exposed granite, a little bit like the Sierras.
fish
fish
The southeast ridge is narrow at 12,400 feet and forms a sort of bridge between two high plateaus. Looking down the northeast face at Glacier Lake and the glacier is really a treat. We camped at Mistymoon Lake and our view of the stars was one of the best in my lifetime.
July 24 This is when s**t really hit the fan for us. After hiking out from Cloud, we drove to the Granite Peak trailhead and camped as planned, but we were watching the forecast and it was updated several times for the worse. There was going to be a thunderstorm the following day. Over the years I have heard a few bad stories about thunderstorms high on Granite Peak. It’s definitely a thing to be avoided. Our only option was to hike through the night starting at 1:30am and try to daytrip Granite and get low enough to safety before the storm started. Probably not a good idea and I was not up to the task, so we started looking into other options. There were going to be thunderstorms everywhere for the next week, probably followed up by fires. I threw out several ideas and finally we found an area that had a decent forecast. Hells Canyon. We spent the rest of the day driving. I was pretty bummed to postpone these peaks again, but our consolation prize was driving through a giant herd of bison in Yellowstone. Heaven's Gate – 8429’ After driving all day we came to the 7 Devils wilderness. We were delayed by a flat tire and my model of car has no spare, but fortunately the fix it kit worked. We got to the trailhead for Heaven’s Gate and ran up it just after sunset. It was nice to stretch the legs.

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Gimpilator
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Gimpilator
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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 4:58 pm 
July 25 He Devil – 9400’ He Devil and She Devil are so close in elevation, you have to do both to count it. Interestingly, they collectively constitute the highest point between the two deepest canyons in North America.
We hiked over a few passes to Sheep Lake and then one more to reach the standard northwest ridge of He Devil. The view of the Tower of Babel above Mirror Lake on the way in was inspiring. At one point along the way we stopped to extinguish a smoldering fire pit. Underground roots were slowly spreading the fire away from the pit towards a downed tree. I used my rain poncho as a water bag to bring water up from Sheep Lake. Some people are so careless. frown.gif
We found a summit register full of garbage on the lower southwest peak of He Devil. I packed out the garbage and we moved the register to the harder to reach true summit. She Devil – 9400’ We backtracked to our overnight packs at Sheep Lake and then hiked up a thousand feet of very loose rock to the col east of She Devil.
Foolishly from the col I went to the summit while waiting for Josh and Mike to catch up, and then went back to meet them. I didn’t know yet, but I would be doing the peak 3 times by the end of the trip. Mount Baal – 9160’ Mike agreed to meet Josh and I on the summit of She Devil after the two of us ventured over to explore Baal and Tower of Babel. We went over the top of Baal and then followed the ridge around some gendarmes to the south side of Tower of Babel.
Tower of Babel – 9200’ We found mostly solid class 3 ledges and ramps on the south side of the peak. It was a fun scramble. We met back up with Mike on the summit of She Devil and then descended south to camp near an unnamed lake at 8400’.
July 26 Mount Belial – 8880’ We went over the two summits of this peak on the way to Devil’s Throne.
Devil's Throne – 9280’ To access Devil’s Throne we navigated directly down the south face of Belial and traversed a basin below the east face. We then ascended a hidden gully which was partially snow filled to reach the upper south slope. On the summit we took turns sitting in the throne itself. The Devil was not there and I suspect he doesn’t exist.
Twin Imps – 9000’ Southeast of Devil’s Throne is the seldom climbed Twin Imps, our first technical peak of the new itinerary. When the three of us reached the base of the climb, it was apparent that a storm was coming our way from the south.
Mike offered to skip the peak and save us some time because technical climbing as a group of 3 is slow. It was a big sacrifice. I encouraged him to join us even though I knew we might have to bail if it started raining, but I appreciated his decision.
Thanks to Klenke’s summitpost beta which we had gathered on the road, we started in the right spot and climbed to the summit in 3 short pitches. Josh led everything with minimal protection. On the summit, the storm was getting closer, so I took a couple quick photos and then down-climbed the arête on belay.
To further save time, Josh free down-climbed the upper two pitches to the top of the first pitch where we set up a rappel. This rappel from a tree goes over some very loose blocks and a big one started to move on me. I had to pull up the rope and trundle it before completing the rappel. When we got back to where Mike was waiting it rained very slightly and then dissipated.
We returned to the lake at 8400’ and spent our second night there. In the middle of the night we were awakened by heavy rain, flashes of lightning and thunder.
July 27 The Ogre – 9256’ There were two peaks left on the way out. We went over The Ogre on the way to The Goblin.
The Goblin – 8985’ Class 2 access is possible if you look for it. I spent some time playing with a friendly butterfly on the summit.
July 28 Eagle Cap – 9572’ On the far side of Hell's Gorge from the 7 Devils is the Wallowas. We knew our first day was going to be long and hot so we started early and moved fast. I did the first 9 miles from the trailhead to the summit in 3.5 hours. The approach valley is very pleasant and we didn’t have much snow until the head of the valley.
This was my first time in the Wallowas and I didn’t know what to expect and didn’t have any preconceived notions. What I found was an amazing colorful mix of igneous, metamorphic and volcanic rock. Ultimately, I fell in love with the place and am already looking forward to going back for more.
Moccasin Lake Peak – 8441’ Since we did a rush job on Eagle Cap it was still early, so Josh and I went up the peak northwest of Moccasin Lake before meeting back up with Mike for the descent. There were some interesting exposed glacier cut slabs up there.
June 29 Sacajawea Peak - 9838’ Having already done Sacajawea previously, Josh decided to take a rest day. Mike and I did the Thorp Creek route which was mostly on-trail until the meadows and then ascended the east ridge. Studying the map I noticed that nearby Matterhorn peak was only 12 feet lower. Too close for comfort.
option 1
option 1
option 2
option 2
Matterhorn Ridge – 9775’ From the summit of Sacajawea we continued south towards another highpoint on the ridge. On the way, the ridge narrowed and we scrambled around and over some exposed gendarmes. The rock was like a white sandstone with black swirls in it. Really cool. We also found a deep cave with a vertical entrance. There was a rappel bolt but the hanger has been removed and we didn’t have a rope with us.
Matterhorn – 9826’ Near the summit of Matterhorn we saw several overnight parties coming up from Ice Lake. One guy asked me if this was the summit of Matterhorn and I told him yes and that Sacajawea was right over there and the highest point in the range. I was slightly shocked that he didn’t plan to go for it and he looked at me like I was nuts. I had to remind myself that not all hikers are peakbaggers.
summit friends
summit friends

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Gimpilator
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Gimpilator
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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 4:58 pm 
June 30 Aneroid North Peak – 9440’ Now Mike was ready for a rest day so Josh and I did one more day in the Wallowas. We used the McCully Creek trail and then ascended the east ridge of the north peak of Aneroid which was quite obviously volcanic.
7 Devils
7 Devils
Aneroid Mountain – 9702’ We followed a ridge south from the north peak and then went down the south face and ridge to Dollar Lake.
Dollar Lake Peak – 9080’ From the lake we ascended the north ridge to the summit and then descended the west ridge. Josh had suggested another monster day by adding this peak and Pete’s Point to our itinerary.
Pete’s Point – 9675’ As it turned out, Pete’s Point was the best peak of the day. The northeast ridge was narrow and very colorful with bands of different rock. The view from the summit overlooking the massive lakes basin to the west was amazing and we could see all the peaks we had done in the Wallowas.
On the descent we ran into a few forest service guys who were lugging hand saws around cutting fallen trees on the trails and they teased us for not even using the trails. Back in McCully Basin I found a giant king bolete mushroom which we cooked up for dinner.
July 31 Josh and Mike are two brothers that wanted to get involved with the Three Sisters. This day was primarily a driving day but we stopped at the John Day fossil beds where we saw some blue dirt. I learned from an informational sign that John Day was a naked man who never visited the area.
August 1 South Sister - 10,358 The Oregon volcanoes were the Lewis brother’s prerogative, so I let Josh set the schedule. They decided to bag South Sister during the night when we first arrived, since I had already done it previously. They told me they got some great night photos. Hopefully they will add them to this report. Broken Top – 9175’ The guys got back to the trailhead at 5:40am and Josh packed his bag for the next hike, but Mike needed a bit of rest. Josh and I left Mike at camp and started up Broken Top.
Near the crest of the northwest ridge, I discovered that I had accidentally left all my food in the car. Josh kindly offered to share his meager rations, but I couldn’t accept the offer. We were a rough pair, one man with no sleep and one with no food, lol!
As we neared the top of the mountain we were engulfed in clouds of little orange butterflies. I have only seen this phenomenon once before in my life, near the summit of Mount Adams. We used the trip report by Dennis Poulin and found narrow exposed ledges of rotten volcanic rock above the Crook Glacier. Handholds and steps both crumbled at times. Class 3 with heavy exposure.
The summit views were the best of the trip so far in my opinion and butterflies were all around us. We made 2 rappels to get back down to the northwest ridge. The first was vertical. We descended the west face in scree chutes and my shoes were so full of scree they almost ejected my feet. At least a pound of scree in each shoe!
Fortunately there was a lot of time left in the day so we stopped in Bend where I got 3 large burritos for myself and 2 for the guys and also purchased a new set of tires for the car.
August 2 North Sister - 10,085’ On the hike in I spotted a pine martin, a rare sighting for sure. We ascended the southeast ridge which features endless volcanic scree and ash and rotten volcanic ledges. I had a bad attitude at first and did some complaining. Sorry guys. The peak itself looked ominous. But more clouds of butterflies cheered me up.
When we came to the upper south ridge there were a few high points to go around. We passed around the first on the west side and the second on the east side and then we came to the “terrible traverse”. The first half was ok but then we came to a very steep snowfield of hard snow. This we opted to protect with pickets. Josh set it up, Mike used his PA to cross and then I took a belay to the far side. We left the pickets in place but cleaned the rope and slings.
Beyond the snow we crossed steep loose dirt and rocks. Footing was challenging because everything was moving and down below us looked like a bad runout. The snow had forced us lower than the standard route. Gingerly we made our way up to the start of the “bowling alley”.
We scrambled up the bowling alley to a class 4 headwall. Josh trailed the rope and then belayed Mike and I up. From there we all scrambled up to the summit. Behind Jefferson we could see an enormous wildfire exploding with mushroom cloud and all. It had been hot since pre-dawn and I had slowed the group down and it was now late evening.
We used a 70 meter rope to rappel the entire bowling alley which saved time, except when it got stuck. Back at the snowfield, the wind changed direction and we watched in horror as the smoke cloud was rushing in our direction. I was genuinely afraid with my history of respiratory issues. Fortunately it didn’t quite reach us, but we didn’t waste any time and we even considered leaving Middle Sister if necessary. Middle Sister - 10,047’ We descended the southwest ridge of North Sister to the top of the Collier Glacier which we contoured to reach the top of the Hayden Glacier. It was now 7pm.
We raced up the north ridge of Middle Sister. I told the guys I wanted to be at the bottom of the Hayden by dark. We were able to accomplish this and made a hasty yet roped descent of the Hayden, only crossing one open crevasse. Back in the forest, glowing eyes in the dark were mistaken for a mountain lion, but it turned out to be a deer.
The hike back to the car was long and they guys were out of food. We ate a lot when we got there around midnight.
Josh's shoes after the trip
Josh's shoes after the trip
August 3 We had more volcanoes planned, but we woke up in a cloud of smoke and after coughing a bit we agreed to go home. It was 106 degrees in Portland so we stopped to cool off in the Oneonta Gorge. I told Josh afterward that it looked like half his tan washed off. smile.gif
During the drive home we spotted someone on the freeway that looked just like the famous Video Hiker Bryan.

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awilsondc
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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 5:56 pm 
I'd say epic trip you guys, but since this is like the tenth time you've done a trip of this magnitudei guess it's just another day in the life of a peak bagger! But seriously, awesome trip! Changing plans on the fly, flat tires and blown out shoes, everyone taking turns resting while the other two hike on, sounds like a good time! I'm particularly jealous of the seven devils trip. My only time in that area was hampered by expected snow and I only got She Devil. I've always wanted to go back. Anyway, excellent report as usual! up.gif up.gif up.gif

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olderthanIusedtobe
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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 6:21 pm 
Sorry to hear you didn't get any of your primary objectives, but looks like you still made a fantastic trip out of it. A bunch of cool mountain ranges, you guys covered some ground. up.gif I think you're gonna love the Beartooths when you go back again for Granite. Have you looked into the Bitterroots at all? I've only done the pretty much walkup of the highest peak in the range--Trapper Peak. Great view from the top and looks like quite a few worthy peaks nearby, lots of beautiful granite. Ah, Oneonta...... shakehead.gif bawl.gif Used to cruise up there a bunch when I was in high school. You'd only see a few other parties up there back in the day. I've heard it's been completely overrun. It's a really cool place, but I don't know if I can ever go back again.

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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 7:46 pm 
fabulous. up.gif

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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contour5
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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 8:04 pm 
Holy Jeebus, you guys are just nailing it out there! Great TR!

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RichP
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PostFri Aug 04, 2017 8:54 pm 
The Great American Road Trip with a few peaks thrown in. up.gif

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Fletcher
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PostSat Aug 05, 2017 9:40 am 
I've seen Michael sleep in some strange places, but never in a creek like that! Looks like a great time guys.

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ree
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PostSun Aug 06, 2017 9:38 am 
What an adventure!

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iron
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PostSun Aug 06, 2017 7:45 pm 
living the dream. work a little. peakbag a lot. no obligations. money. cool to see josh bulking up this past year. definitely helps hiking!

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Michael Lewis
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PostSun Aug 06, 2017 10:20 pm 
I'm glad we got to see so much of the country and get out and climb some of my milestone goals (Cloud, Sacajawea, Sisters) that I never knew would be happening so soon. Got a lot done this summer. But now with all the heat and smoke, I'm actually glad to be back at my job indoors breathing clean cool air and saving up for the future. Thanks for sharing this experience and I look forward to Josh's pictures as well.

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Bryan K
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PostFri Aug 11, 2017 9:43 pm 
Great looking trip guys!!!! Good to see you on your way home too, thanks for stopping to say hi!

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ChinookPass
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PostFri Aug 11, 2017 10:29 pm 
Congrats! That looks like the Life!

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