Forum Index > Trail Talk > Cruising down the Emmons un-roped
 Reply to topic
Previous :: Next Topic
Author Message
gb
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Posts: 5824 | TRs | Pics
gb
Member
PostSat Aug 06, 2022 6:39 am 
cascadeclimber wrote:
There isn't a hard/fast rule on this, for me.

In a pair, if I tie in with you on a glacier and there is no running protection, my bet is that I'll fall and you'll catch me. If we go unroped, my gamble is that I won't fall.

I've practiced trying to arrest a dynamic glacier slide/fall as one person. Unless you arrest almost immediately, the odds are that you're going to get pulled down, too.


Don't buy this. It really depends a lot on slope angle and the firmness of snow. There is a lot of friction on the rope in many situations, and that friction and cutting into the crevasse lip is very likely to allow the second person to stop the fall. In fact, when the snow is soft is the most likely timing for breaking into a crevasse. OTH if then snow is rock hard, there is little friction; on a steep angle moreso; but hard snow makes the probability of breaking a bridge much, much less.

It is also important that rope management be effective and that the amount of slack between climbers be monitored closely. Watching when you turn and what route you take on turns is critical in this regard. It is also important to be observant when leading and to minimize the possibility of running parellel to likely crevasses; try to take them on perpendicularly.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
HikingBex
Member
Member


Joined: 17 Aug 2020
Posts: 70 | TRs | Pics
HikingBex
Member
PostSun Aug 07, 2022 10:53 pm 
One of the rangers at Muir this weekend told us that last weekend on the DC route a roped climber took a fall & dragged another ropemate into a crevasse with them - the only thing that kept the whole team from falling in was that they had clipped through one of the many pickets set along the route by the guide services. The team evidently didn’t know how to perform crevasse rescue (and was the last group on the mountain that day) so they had to wait 7 hours for the park service to rescue them (seems impressively fast to me). So watch out for an upcoming blog post entitled “Please know crevasse rescue”….

One other thing that the ranger mentioned that I thought was interesting was that most rescues on the DC route are for medical issues (such as a broken leg) while most on the Emmons route are due to fallen climbers.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
uww
Member
Member


Joined: 16 Dec 2015
Posts: 257 | TRs | Pics
uww
Member
PostMon Aug 08, 2022 12:20 pm 
HikingBex wrote:
The team evidently didn’t know how to perform crevasse rescue (and was the last group on the mountain that day) so they had to wait 7 hours for the park service to rescue them (seems impressively fast to me). So watch out for an upcoming blog post entitled “Please know crevasse rescue”….

It's not enough just to look the part?

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
   All times are GMT - 8 Hours
 Reply to topic
Forum Index > Trail Talk > Cruising down the Emmons un-roped
Jump to:   
Search this topic:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
   Use Disclaimer Powered by phpBB Privacy Policy