Forum Index > Trip Reports > Dungeness Corral (Olympics), 10 6,500' Summits, 09/06-08/2022
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Alden Ryno
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Joined: 04 Jun 2019
Posts: 142 | TRs | Pics
Location: Issaquah, WA
Alden Ryno
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PostSat Sep 10, 2022 11:39 am 
TL; DR: A full-value three days in the Olympics around the Dungeness River with various 6,500’+ summits. Tons of scrambling, even more off-trail travel. Some route details below, some reference to TRs that I found helpful. Use bold text to find section specific to peaks/areas of interest. Summits: Warrior Peak, Inner Constance, Twin Benchmark (Pt. 6666), Little Mystery, Mount Mystery, Mount Deception, Hal Foss Peak, Mount Fricaba, Mount Deception, Mount Johnson, Mount Clark DAY 1: TH to Warrior Peak, Inner Constance, Camp in Sunnybrook Meadows DAY 2: Sunnybrook Meadows to Twin Benchmark, Little Mystery, Mount Mystery, Hal Foss Peak, Mount Fricaba, Camp in (Upper) Upper Royal Basin DAY 3: Mount Deception, Mount Johnson (The Needles HP), Mount Clark, amble to TH
route overview
route overview
Pre-amble: My only prior experience in this area was a May 2020 trip to Petunia and North Petunia Peaks with my good friend Chris (my first Olympic overnight) and an August 2022 day-trip to Boulder Ridge via Marmot Pass Trail with Rikki and Chris. DAY 1: TH to Warrior Peak, Inner Constance, Camp in Sunnybrook Meadows I departed the car at 4:30 am with hopes of making it to Boulder Shelter (~6.4 miles) by sunrise. I would have made it if I had taken the correct trail the entire way… Unfortunately, after Camp Handy (~3.4 miles), I went right along the Dungeness River when a sign to the left said “Marmot Pass.” “I’m not going there…” Derp. I walked about 0.75 miles before realizing I wasn’t gaining like I should have and checked the map. Backtrack to the sign and begin the ascent.
impressed by how small 4.5 days worth of stuff can look like (no tent/rain gear/sleeping pad)
impressed by how small 4.5 days worth of stuff can look like (no tent/rain gear/sleeping pad)
several night slugs
several night slugs
light of my life
light of my life
By 8 am, I was at the off-trail turn-off to the basin below Warrior Peak (10 miles, 8.4 without my flub). There is a cairn about 500 feet past the creek crossing on the map. This cairn allows passage upward without any brush whatsoever.
cool rocks above lake
cool rocks above lake
Warrior Peak Skip to the gully. It was loose without snow but staying climber’s right and holding the wall made travel not terrible. At the col, I continued right and wrapped around a spire sub-summit of Warrior. When I came to the rock face on the saddle, I wasn’t sure of what to do. The route is rated OMR (Olympic Mountain Rescue) Class 3. OMR is known to be stiff with their ratings, perhaps not as much as Beckey though. Nothing immediately seemed like class 3, so I veered to the left and found a right-trending crack: possible but bad runout, let’s try something else.
up the gully
up the gully
to Inner Constance. Only one of two peaks visited this trip with a register. I was unable to open it.
to Inner Constance. Only one of two peaks visited this trip with a register. I was unable to open it.
Kulshan & Shuksan
Kulshan & Shuksan
Tahoma, could also see Pahto
Tahoma, could also see Pahto
Dakobed
Dakobed
Muddy post-glacial lake below Constance
Muddy post-glacial lake below Constance
this is the route, at the top of the saddle, but it's nigh impossible to see anything from this 2D perspective. There are a few loose bits that are avoidable.
this is the route, at the top of the saddle, but it's nigh impossible to see anything from this 2D perspective. There are a few loose bits that are avoidable.
Back to the saddle, I went to the right and found steep, open terrain. I began my way up and realized that a lot may have “gone” but everything seemed to get more technical, and I eventually backed down and returned to the saddle. Mmkay, let’s take another look at the face. There were holds but I wasn’t sure. I gave it a shot and it was very sound and quite simple. The terrain eases after ~20 feet. Just be sure to remember where you went up. The last few hundred feet are simple. Retrace route down and bomb down the scree-fest through the gully. Inner Constance Above the lake in the basin, I came to the defunct glacier and (eventually) gains steeply to the Constance-Inner Constance Col. I intended to get off the snow/ice as soon as possible. On the map, climber’s right seems better but it’s steep traversing so I wanted to see it in person. It goes well enough and is largely walking. When I was on the “glacier” down low, there was a lot of debris in the ice. The gradient was sub-10 degrees but there was a lot of running water that would disappear, I wanted to get off that thing ASAP. I didn’t feel in danger but considering the timing of my trip (first weekend of September) and what happened to Jake two years prior, I was carefully away from any forms of water. I was on rock within moments. I thought of him a lot during this outing.
before bare ice. I gained the rock by the dark pieces of ice (embedded with dirt/rocks)
before bare ice. I gained the rock by the dark pieces of ice (embedded with dirt/rocks)
rock traversing to above the col. [b:dbf00f2b7a]Any thoughts about the white stuff on the rocks?[/b:dbf00f2b7a] My thought was salt deposits (once undersea?) but was confident enough to do a taste test...
rock traversing to above the col. Any thoughts about the white stuff on the rocks? My thought was salt deposits (once undersea?) but was confident enough to do a taste test...
Aaron's Inner Constance TR is great. The OMR book and Aaron’s route seem to largely align. It’s exposed, with much traversing, and on generally good rock. I love a “complicated” route (i.e., not simply up/down). I was on the summit at 1 pm and began my descent after a half hour. The route was intimidating before but once I got moving, it seemed like the way was evident with a “pick your poison” feel.
route detail with slope angle shading underlayer (Gaia Topo). Waypoint is the 6840 saddle/col.
route detail with slope angle shading underlayer (Gaia Topo). Waypoint is the 6840 saddle/col.
just above the col, I veered around the spots with extremely bright orange lichen
just above the col, I veered around the spots with extremely bright orange lichen
traversing
traversing
I headed right of this slug/schlong-shaped rock. There was a tiny tree in the righthand gap. I dropped down slightly past this before continuing the rising traverse.
I headed right of this slug/schlong-shaped rock. There was a tiny tree in the righthand gap. I dropped down slightly past this before continuing the rising traverse.
looking back at slabby traverse. appears much worse than it felt
looking back at slabby traverse. appears much worse than it felt
about the 6960 contour, I began to ascend steeply to the left protrusion (part of pt in the 7440 contour)
about the 6960 contour, I began to ascend steeply to the left protrusion (part of pt in the 7440 contour)
descending traverse around 7440 to 7320 "saddle"
descending traverse around 7440 to 7320 "saddle"
continuance of descending traverse
continuance of descending traverse
last descent before the up. I took the semi-ledge across the rock (midground) but one can downclimb between the two ledges for a less exposed path
last descent before the up. I took the semi-ledge across the rock (midground) but one can downclimb between the two ledges for a less exposed path
Constance from Inner C.
Constance from Inner C.
I was back at the trail around 3:45 pm and found a single tree with shade to cool off and reassemble my pack before heading to Home Lake.
Home Lake. Dual Warrior summits behind
Home Lake. Dual Warrior summits behind
Once at Home Lake around 5pm, I was underwhelmed. I had another 2.5 hours until sunset, so I set off for Sunnybrook Meadows. And, I’m very glad that I did. I made camp at 6:30 pm with another hour until sunset to decompress after a big day. Sunnybrook Meadows itself isn’t scenic (IMO) but was bug-free and no critters bothered me or my nearby bear can.
On Del Monte Ridge (name seen in another report)
On Del Monte Ridge (name seen in another report)
Dropping to Sunnybrook Meadows. On the ridge, I was very annoyed by the sun (exasperated by fatigue) because it was right on the horizon and blasting me in the eyes despite sunglasses. Also, there was no breeze...
Dropping to Sunnybrook Meadows. On the ridge, I was very annoyed by the sun (exasperated by fatigue) because it was right on the horizon and blasting me in the eyes despite sunglasses. Also, there was no breeze...
DAY 2: Sunnybrook Meadows to Little Mystery, Mount Mystery, Hal Foss Peak, Mount Fricaba, Camp in (Upper) Upper Royal Basin
Deception Basin view, nearing Fricaba summit
Deception Basin view, nearing Fricaba summit
brekkie
brekkie
from Twin Benchmark (Pt. 6666)
from Twin Benchmark (Pt. 6666)
On the move at 7 am, I began a rising traverse from Sunnybrook Meadows to the long, high ridge connecting Inner Constance to Mount Mystery. I opted to tag Twin Benchmark and the walk the ridge as far a feasible before dropping about 1,000’ to the headwaters of Upper Twin Creek below Little Mystery.
excellent water source in Upper Twin Creek. Lil' Mystery ahead
excellent water source in Upper Twin Creek. Lil' Mystery ahead
Little Mystery While the OMR book notes a route that connects Little Mystery to Gunsight Pass via a class 3 traverse, a TR on Peakbagger by Will T. noted that the route might be gone due to washout. I didn’t want to carryover everything to find that the route was out, so I played it safe and assembled a daypack for a short out-and-back. I set off at 9:40 am to the summit at 11am, back to my pack at noon. Little Mystery isn’t very noteworthy, though the route I took was mainly choss with a back-side (west) traverse below the sub-summits of the main summit. The traverse is longer than expected and drops about 250 or 300 feet along the way. A short scramble brought me to the summit with an impressive view of Mystery and Deception.
traversing the backside (west) of Lil' Mystery before dropping a few hundred feet
traversing the backside (west) of Lil' Mystery before dropping a few hundred feet
Mounts Deception (L) and Mystery (R) from Lil' M summit
Mounts Deception (L) and Mystery (R) from Lil' M summit
image of route across north side of Lil' Mystery via Gunsight Pass. Seems to go, but one would need to properly connect ledges
image of route across north side of Lil' Mystery via Gunsight Pass. Seems to go, but one would need to properly connect ledges
Mount Mystery Thus began the carryover of Mystery at 12:30 pm. I was elated to have an up-valley breeze the entire way from Upper Twin Creek to the ridge crest on Mount Mystery. It was getting hot and with a loaded pack, I moved more slowly to keep from overheating. Once at the pass, and above, I looked over at the alleged Class 3 route from Gunsight Pass to Little Mystery. I think it still exists, though if it does, it is seriously exposed and on down-sloping ledges. Proceed with much caution (see above image). From Gunsight Pass to the ridge proper didn't seem as steep as the map would imply. I hesitate to say it was trivial because someone lost their life there in the past few months (going down), though it felt much less serious than other aspects of Mt. Mystery itself. I made the ridge crest around 1:15 pm. The ridge route of Mystery is awesome. There are cairns marking the way as you weave east and west across the ridge crest multiple times. There are a few scramble sections along the way, but the most notable piece is an exposed ledge traverse on down-sloping slabs. I imagine this is reminiscent of the Finger Traverse on Constance? Perhaps much shorter on Mystery.
typical terrain on the Mt. Mystery ridge. Cool stuff
typical terrain on the Mt. Mystery ridge. Cool stuff
IMO, the most serious non-scramble bit of Mt. Mystery: downsloping ledge traverse. There's a nice finger crack for added security
IMO, the most serious non-scramble bit of Mt. Mystery: downsloping ledge traverse. There's a nice finger crack for added security
intense scramble bit. Able to be bypassed a bit lower over the "rib"
intense scramble bit. Able to be bypassed a bit lower over the "rib"
I eventually made it to the point at which the two primary Mystery routes met. I departed my pack with my phone and inReach in my phanny pack without a backpack. There’s only about 200 feet of scrambling to the summit, which was reached at 2:20 pm.
Mystery summit area
Mystery summit area
Warrior and Constances from Mystery
Warrior and Constances from Mystery
Back at my pack began the worst part of the entire trip. The east side of Mystery that goes down to the Mystery Glacier is pure garbage. Steep deadpan dirt that goes to cliffs. I slipped once that gave me a bruise. Otherwise, I was lucky to remain largely sure-footed. I veered skier’s right pretty hard around cliff bands then traversed left (NNW) along the same contour (~6,900’) to above the glacier col where I dropped the final few hundred feet.
gross deadpan stuff below Mystery
gross deadpan stuff below Mystery
traversed under the cliff-ish bands
traversed under the cliff-ish bands
Mt. Mystery. Sun makes it difficult to see well. Lots of runnels
Mt. Mystery. Sun makes it difficult to see well. Lots of runnels
Hal Foss Peak I rested at the col in semi-shade for about half an hour before beginning up the ridge to Hal Foss Peak. The ridge isn’t complicated overall but is very friable. Getting to the proper summit has ups-and-downs along with modest scrambling.
Ridge to Hal Foss
Ridge to Hal Foss
Deception Basin. Lower basin is beautiful, upper basin not-so-much
Deception Basin. Lower basin is beautiful, upper basin not-so-much
noice
noice
glacier just past Hal Foss
glacier just past Hal Foss
Mount Fricaba Unsure on time, I dropped from Hal Foss at 420 pm to begin the traverse to Fricaba. I dropped off the ridge and crossed below a rapidly receding glacier before gaining the ridge proper again. I dropped off yet again around a craggy outcropping and regained the ridge (again) all the way to the broad summit. There was a register! Only one of two on the 10 summits (Warrior being the other).
Fricaba summit friends
Fricaba summit friends
At 5:45 pm, I dropped off the Fricaba summit toward Deception Basin, staying close to the ridge. My plan was to drop into the basin east and traverse to Royal Basin. This section was also garbage when trying to get into the basin. I should have dropped east off the Fricaba summit. The terrain was loose and solidified as the gradient eased. Before long, I was looking over Royal Basin and searching for a spot to set up camp.
sweet carpet above a small lake somewhere in the moraines
sweet carpet above a small lake somewhere in the moraines
said small lake
said small lake
I traversed the moraine slopes of Upper Royal Basin until I was almost directly above Upper Royal Lake (about 300 vertical feet above). I found a flattish patch of dirt and sprawled out.
camp views while getting ready for dinner
camp views while getting ready for dinner
DAY 3: Mount Deception, Mount Johnson (The Needles HP), Mount Clark, amble to TH I packed up things and was moving at 7:15 am. I wanted to stowe my pack and bear can nearer Upper Royal Lake, so I didn’t have to trudge back uphill after the day’s peaks. I found solace near Shelter Rock, where there’s a surprisingly large, flat, and soft area. I left my main pack and set off with bear can en towe for placement elsewhere (7:40 am).
morning views. Alpenglow on Martin and Johnson
morning views. Alpenglow on Martin and Johnson
moving
moving
Mount Deception After about 10 minutes, I realized that I left my sunglasses. Instead of going back, I figured it was too much effort (wrong). I followed the standard route to the 7,200’ ridge at 9 am. To that point, I was unsure if I wanted to take the standard route across the top of the glacier or the seldom-taken, more adventurous class 4 direct route in the OMR book.
Deception Glacier...
Deception Glacier...
'schrund on alt. exit from glaicer
'schrund on alt. exit from glaicer
Once I saw the glacier, the choice was simple: the ridge. The glacier is in shambles. There was at least one easily visible crack across the standard route with more likely. Additionally, the direct route is shorter, and adventurous. I would not recommend this route. For the direct route, I traversed the ridge beyond the standard drop to the glacier. There were easy ledges/benches that reminded me of the East Ledges route on Forbidden Peak (July 2020) [would recommend this route, less populated than West Ridge]. The traverse ends at a wide, steep, and loose gully.
traverse, ends at the gully
traverse, ends at the gully
technical crux of gully. I took the (skier's) right one up and down
technical crux of gully. I took the (skier's) right one up and down
Now, I had to choose between two constrictions: one seemed obviously easier (for me) while the other had an interesting layback move to overcome. Not ideal for how steep and loose the terrain below was. I skirted my way up the gully, trending right (north). It seemed to get steeper as I went. Eventually, I was on a very crappy rock rib as I tried to traverse out of the gully to flatter ground and to meet with the standard route. I didn’t want to go back down precisely what I came up. Easy walk to the summit thereafter.
Stellar views from Mount Deception's summit
Stellar views from Mount Deception's summit
Needle-y Bois
Needle-y Bois
looking down the gully (I went down the channel stemming from the lower right of image. Came up the rocky rib that extends out of image right)
looking down the gully (I went down the channel stemming from the lower right of image. Came up the rocky rib that extends out of image right)
junk rock rib. I tried to take this "level" to demonstrate how steep it is
junk rock rib. I tried to take this "level" to demonstrate how steep it is
came down the gully between the shaded rock and the sunlit rock
came down the gully between the shaded rock and the sunlit rock
Back at the top of the gully, I looked for other ways down: none seemed to go without cliffs, but I couldn’t be sure unless I tried. I didn’t want to waste too much time. This time, I choose the steeper albeit more secure route that was in the gully (not on a rib protruding from the gully). I moved face-in for a while and the descent felt better than the ascent (a surprise to me). I knocked a rock or two loose at one point, which propagated and sent rockfall down a thousand feet directly onto the ascent route. This is the primary reason why I would not recommend this route.
part of traverse nearest the gully
part of traverse nearest the gully
Once at the ledges, the terrain was easily navigable, and I retraced my path. Note: if you do this route: 1) try to assure that no one else is around and 2) maintain the approximate contour on the traverse (not gaining to the ridge proper). I was fortunate that it was mid-week and late-season: I never saw others. Once down to 6,400’, I began a high traverse above Upper Royal Basin en route to Surprise Basin. I gained to 6,500-6,600’ where the terrain was less steep and less scree for, overall, an easy traverse. This saved a lot of time, I believe.
terrain on the traverse
terrain on the traverse
Mount Johnson (The Needles highpoint) First, I should have recollected Fletcher’s TR as he attempted my route but intelligently made his way around the right side of the spires to the Class 4 bypass. I, however, was convinced that through the spires was the Class 4 route. Newsflash: it’s not. Through the spires is OMR Route 1B, rated 5.1. I thought that this was challenging for Class 4, but, again, OMR is known for stiffer ratings.
ledges on Johnson. about mid-image and right would bring one to a bypass of the exposed corner via a rock tunnel.
ledges on Johnson. about mid-image and right would bring one to a bypass of the exposed corner via a rock tunnel.
hard to see, but this is the tunnel bypass of the exposed corner (taken on descent)
hard to see, but this is the tunnel bypass of the exposed corner (taken on descent)
insane balanced rock
insane balanced rock
up the scree field, trending right
up the scree field, trending right
up, up, through the middle (for Route 1B), go right around base of spire for Class 4 route
up, up, through the middle (for Route 1B), go right around base of spire for Class 4 route
crazy green lichen
crazy green lichen
smol ledge traverse between the "pitches"
smol ledge traverse between the "pitches"
traverse to summit block once past the spires
traverse to summit block once past the spires
heckin' nice crack (up route, went down left side)
heckin' nice crack (up route, went down left side)
Tahoma and Inner Constance
Tahoma and Inner Constance
summit block cracks
summit block cracks
I'd call this one Gasp Pinnacle (since there seems to be conflicted information on which is Sweat Spire and which is Gasp Pinnacle)
I'd call this one Gasp Pinnacle (since there seems to be conflicted information on which is Sweat Spire and which is Gasp Pinnacle)
awe in-spire-ing
awe in-spire-ing
This is an awesome route, whether through the spires or around. Fletcher tells the route in detail, so go to his TR above. The only thing that I’ll add is that passing between the spires is tough. The rock is great but it’s technical though not terribly sustained. I’m unsure if the route changed due to rock changes since Fletcher’s time (I doubt it). It goes solidly, just be careful. Below the summit block, there are two slanting cracks: both work. I went up the left one and down the right. There’s about as much class 4 as was between the spires but it’s easier to the summit block (and feels less exposed to one’s back).
Cruise ship from Johnson summit. Mind-boggling that these are a thing
Cruise ship from Johnson summit. Mind-boggling that these are a thing
upper pitch
upper pitch
upper pitch, panning slightly left
upper pitch, panning slightly left
lower pitch
lower pitch
The downclimb was quite easier than the ascent. I did make one mistake on my descent where I cut onto the ledge traverse too early and got cliffed. I downclimbed the cliff (not that solid, only 10 feet) only to realize that there’s a “tunnel” (cannonhole) bypass that cut out the most exposed portion of ledge traversing. Throughout Johnson’s route, there are a few rap stations, I carried off three pieces of tat, one of which was stuck and frayed when I found it. It left little pieces of material spattered about but I tried to get most of it.
Clark from midway on Johnson
Clark from midway on Johnson
Mount Clark Finally at the head of Surprise Basin, I zipped up and down Clark in 65 elapsed minutes. By now, I was scrambled out (mainly sun exposed tired) and was underwhelmed by Clark, when compared to Johnson and Inner Constance. Clark’s standard route is fun and ledge-y with ample solid scrambling.
Clark summit shot
Clark summit shot
at the time of this image, I didn't know I'd be hiking all through the valley before night
at the time of this image, I didn't know I'd be hiking all through the valley before night
Clark summit pano
Clark summit pano
Fletcher’s TR also details Clark’s route nicely. There are cairns marking the way, though the route feels evident so long as you know that it corkscrews around the peak then climbs steeply to the summit. Side note: Surprise Basin is gross. Yeah, cool, but why so long?
long Surprise Basin
long Surprise Basin
Upper Royal Lake
Upper Royal Lake
Outro I had planned a third night out with an exit along Gray Wolf Ridge to tag three more summits (and maybe a fourth in Walkinshaw). I was supposed to camp at Royal Lake per my permit on night 3. As I walked the mile or so from Upper Royal Lake to Royal Lake, I made up my mind to simply head to the car. I began at 5:40 pm and made it to the car at 8:10 pm where I had some oranges waiting for me and finished off my cheeses and sausage.
Royal Basin
Royal Basin
Royal Lake (unimpressed...)
Royal Lake (unimpressed...)
mmm. That low Washington forest trail
mmm. That low Washington forest trail
One. More. Mile.
One. More. Mile.
This was a fantastic trip with tons of scrambling. It was much different than my ridge trip last month around Grand Valley. I enjoyed this one more. Any of the peaks is worthwhile, though the best, in my mind, are Inner Constance and Mount Johnson. The others are on a list and afford excellent views, though the effort of getting to Little Mystery, Mystery, Hal Foss, and Fricaba may not be worth it if not eyeing the Olympic 6,500’+ List. I’m likely to grab Gray Wolf Ridge et al. as a day trip and Buckhorn et al. as a separate day trip. I may wait until I’m farther along this list since I could save some “easy” ones for nearer the end. Watch tallied 56 miles and 29,000’ of gain. However, I know for a fact that 3-4,000’ of that gain is erroneous due to GPS issues in near-vertical terrain on Inner Constance, Deception, and Johnson.

kite, reststep, rubywrangler, zimmertr  meck  silence
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meck
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meck
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PostSat Sep 10, 2022 1:21 pm 
Wow, what a trip, I really enjoyed reading this! Thanks for the detailed write-ups (and references to some of the other TRs). I really appreciate the terrain/route photos That hard pack downsloping dirt with gravel/tiny ball-bearing rocks on top of it is the stuff of (my) nightmares. I've visited a couple of those, but never string more than two together; what an effort! Which summit of Warrior did you go up, the South or North?

*Just say NO to Rent-Seeking, don't give up the concept of "ownership"*
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Alden Ryno
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Alden Ryno
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PostSat Sep 10, 2022 2:43 pm 
You're welcome, meck! I'm thankful for the feedback. Often, I worry about being long-winded, especially with so many things in this trip. I agree that the steep, hard dirt can be brutal. Often there are slightly larger, immobile rocks in the dirt, though the immobile part wasn't consistent coming down Mystery... I only went to the south (SE) summit. Knowing that they're within 40' of one another, I should've visited both. However, there doesn't seem to be much debate about the SE being higher than the NW and I felt pressured for time being unsure about the Inner Constance route to come.

meck
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Fletcher
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PostSat Sep 10, 2022 4:21 pm 
Incredible loop of quality peaks Alden.

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awilsondc
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awilsondc
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PostSun Sep 11, 2022 12:45 pm 
Super impressed by this effort, Alden! So many peaks over such rugged terrain, it's no wonder you were scrambled out by the end. Awesome route, I love it! up.gif up.gif

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