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GaliWalker
Have camera will use



Joined: 10 Dec 2007
Posts: 4671 | TRs | Pics
Location: Pittsburgh
GaliWalker
Have camera will use
PostMon Aug 29, 2022 3:13 pm 
Foist wrote:
Is it necessary to traverse the glacier to get to the lakes?
Nope. You can circle around the unnamed lake below Crater Mountain, via the other summit of Crater Mountain. https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7970259

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani

~*CutebutChossy69*~, Foist
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Foist
Sultan of Sweat



Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 3945 | TRs | Pics
Location: Back!
Foist
Sultan of Sweat
PostMon Aug 29, 2022 3:37 pm 
Oh right, thanks GW, I now remember that I saw your report (and characteristically stupendous photos). One of these days...

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Bluebird
suffering optional



Joined: 22 Jan 2014
Posts: 180 | TRs | Pics
Location: United States
Bluebird
suffering optional
PostMon Aug 29, 2022 4:22 pm 
Congratulations on a successful trip despite challenges. Jack is a big mountain worthy of respect. I haven't ever had an unplanned night out so no advice there. I do however always bring two extra sets of batteries for my headlamp plus an emergency tiny key light. Rechargeable so easy to top off the battery after every trip. Have used the extra batteries more often than I would have expected. And can attest that the in reach mini is no more durable, in fact maybe less so than the bigger version (have both).

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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 7076 | TRs | Pics
Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostMon Aug 29, 2022 10:38 pm 
I'm super impressed you could do the whole trip from the road to the summit in a day, even if it did end up as a bivvy. We camped on the ridge above Jerry Lakes the first day after climbing Crater Mountain. Thanks for the entertaining report triggering (mostly) good memories. I've had this photo as one of my rotating computer desktop photos for years. It still freaks me out every time it comes around -- that is about my limit for scrambling. We used a rope both up and down the short steep part.
Steep descent - Yikes!
Steep descent - Yikes!

Mid Fork Rocksflickr

Alden Ryno  ~*CutebutChossy69*~
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~*CutebutChossy69*~
bluebagprincess



Joined: 08 Jul 2019
Posts: 51 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle
~*CutebutChossy69*~
bluebagprincess
PostFri Sep 02, 2022 8:57 am 
Foist wrote:
Wow quite an effort and report. I am far too much of a wuss to climb Jack, but had a question because I've been to Crater Mtn and pondered an overnight to Jerry Lakes. Is it necessary to traverse the glacier to get to the lakes? I thought it wasn't, but your report seems to imply that it is. I thought one could go below the glacier (past the outlet of the un-mapped former glacier lake). Were you just taking a short cut because you were geared up for a badass climb anyway?
It seems the glacier has receded to above where you traverse to get to Jerry Lakes, but I was a little surprised to find some glacial ice under some of the talus we were traversing so just keep an eye out for that slip hazard!

Choss is a girl's best friend
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lopper
off-route



Joined: 22 Jan 2002
Posts: 830 | TRs | Pics
lopper
off-route
PostSun Sep 04, 2022 10:34 am 
83LittleJck2
83LittleJck2
Congrats on a safe completion of your Jack Mtn Overnight. Top-notch report. Here is a pic I took in Aug of 1983. We used the Little Jack trail and camped up among the heather knolls. Long traverses under cliff bands, with volleys of tumbling chunks of pillow-basalt. So most of us turned around before reaching the gullies that access Higher Jack. No dancing lobster claws for us that time.

geyer  ~*CutebutChossy69*~
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b00
Member
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Joined: 29 Sep 2003
Posts: 1115 | TRs | Pics
b00
Member
PostFri Sep 09, 2022 4:02 pm 
~*CutebutChossy69*~ wrote:
Please feel free to share your unplanned bivy stories and suggestions in the comments! I’d be curious to hear what other’s strategies have been in these types of situations. Not in a “glamorizing the emergency bivy” kind of way, but the “here’s what we did that worked for us & the lessons I learned” kind of way.
first, thank you so much for the excellent tr and for sharing your difficulties(it is always easier to share successes)! i have been agonizing over my response and really hope you don't hate me for it: is it possible that sharing of bivy info is a subset of a larger questions and maybe missing the forest for the trees? is how to avoid bivies, the elephant in the room? which maybe is a subset of the much larger issue, how to avoid undue confidence? (unfortunately, undue confidence is a rather raw issue for me personally). that being said, i have an approximately a 0.07% chance, if personal history is any use (one unplanned bivy in far north of a 1000), and on that one unplanned bivy, the standard emergency blanket worked well until it got punctured and then its efficiency decreased to almost to worthless. i realized afterwards that fighting the next war with strategies that worked in the previous one would help a little, but better yet i felt i needed to try to anticipate what i needed to do to avoid a next time: along with carrying my phone as a backup light, instead of carrying extra headlight batteries, i took a lighter weight more robust strategy of carrying in addition to my headlamp, (first i brought a "tiny key light" like selena and then switched to) a petzl e+lite, which has a very long battery life, provides redundancy(when others had issues with their headlamps like dead batteries, dead extra batteries, running out of batteries, forgetting their headlamp, broken headlamp...). i ditched the petzl headlamp headband and just carry the light as i felt the redundancy of carrying two headamp bands was not worth it. instead of the standard emergency blanket, i now carry a real bivy bag(ultra lightweight) that weighs about 2.5oz more than standard emergency blanket, far more robust, doubles as a sleeping bag cover to give me few extra degrees of warmth on the rare times i want it. yes, that is a great example of my plentiful hypocrisy, closing the barn door after all the animals got out. i also doubled down on partner selection and only went on challenging trips with people i had gained confidence in and who were on the same page. especially partners that know the difference between helping us see our possible errors and just broadcasting their opinion(and then most importantly, speaking up). in our echo chamber society where differing opinions are shouted down or looked down on, i am thankful for my friends that disagree with me. i've been up the same route as you on jack and i sure am glad our team did not have to bivy and that you two made it out! thanks for your interesting and fun trip reports! :>)

~*CutebutChossy69*~
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Blowdown
Sawin' Logs ...



Joined: 24 Aug 2011
Posts: 358 | TRs | Pics
Location: On the Summit
Blowdown
Sawin' Logs ...
PostFri Sep 09, 2022 9:15 pm 
Quote:
Going from car to summit was nearly 10k of gain and 15 miles of mostly rugged terrain and I was def fatigued.
Ya think ?!? eek.gif Outstanding effort. Glad you survived! up.gif up.gif

~*CutebutChossy69*~
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flwerhead
Member
Member


Joined: 10 Sep 2022
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flwerhead
Member
PostSat Sep 10, 2022 11:45 pm 
A great start to your trip report and excellent photos. I am following along just in case I can fit in a trip there

~*CutebutChossy69*~
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HitTheTrail
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Joined: 30 Oct 2007
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HitTheTrail
Member
PostSun Sep 11, 2022 3:03 pm 
Real adventure! up.gif One simple emergency measure you can do is take a roll down dyneema backpack like a HMG 3400 They are made from tough waterproof dyneema and when fully expanded will cover your lower legs almost up to your waist. They are also lite and can be rolled down to the size of a small summit pack. In a sense you are getting a rugged backpack and a half body bivy for the weight of a small backpack. I even use mine as a sleeping bag cover over my feet inside a tent when there is a lot of condensation.

~*CutebutChossy69*~
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~*CutebutChossy69*~
bluebagprincess



Joined: 08 Jul 2019
Posts: 51 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle
~*CutebutChossy69*~
bluebagprincess
PostThu Sep 15, 2022 10:05 am 
b00 wrote:
~*CutebutChossy69*~ wrote:
Please feel free to share your unplanned bivy stories and suggestions in the comments! I’d be curious to hear what other’s strategies have been in these types of situations. Not in a “glamorizing the emergency bivy” kind of way, but the “here’s what we did that worked for us & the lessons I learned” kind of way.
first, thank you so much for the excellent tr and for sharing your difficulties(it is always easier to share successes)! i have been agonizing over my response and really hope you don't hate me for it: is it possible that sharing of bivy info is a subset of a larger questions and maybe missing the forest for the trees? is how to avoid bivies, the elephant in the room? which maybe is a subset of the much larger issue, how to avoid undue confidence? (unfortunately, undue confidence is a rather raw issue for me personally). that being said, i have an approximately a 0.07% chance, if personal history is any use (one unplanned bivy in far north of a 1000), and on that one unplanned bivy, the standard emergency blanket worked well until it got punctured and then its efficiency decreased to almost to worthless. i realized afterwards that fighting the next war with strategies that worked in the previous one would help a little, but better yet i felt i needed to try to anticipate what i needed to do to avoid a next time: along with carrying my phone as a backup light, instead of carrying extra headlight batteries, i took a lighter weight more robust strategy of carrying in addition to my headlamp, (first i brought a "tiny key light" like selena and then switched to) a petzl e+lite, which has a very long battery life, provides redundancy(when others had issues with their headlamps like dead batteries, dead extra batteries, running out of batteries, forgetting their headlamp, broken headlamp...). i ditched the petzl headlamp headband and just carry the light as i felt the redundancy of carrying two headamp bands was not worth it. instead of the standard emergency blanket, i now carry a real bivy bag(ultra lightweight) that weighs about 2.5oz more than standard emergency blanket, far more robust, doubles as a sleeping bag cover to give me few extra degrees of warmth on the rare times i want it. yes, that is a great example of my plentiful hypocrisy, closing the barn door after all the animals got out. i also doubled down on partner selection and only went on challenging trips with people i had gained confidence in and who were on the same page. especially partners that know the difference between helping us see our possible errors and just broadcasting their opinion(and then most importantly, speaking up). in our echo chamber society where differing opinions are shouted down or looked down on, i am thankful for my friends that disagree with me. i've been up the same route as you on jack and i sure am glad our team did not have to bivy and that you two made it out! thanks for your interesting and fun trip reports! :>)
Thanks for your thoughtful and thorough response! No agonizing necessary smile.gif I had meant to include a part about how trips start well before you leave the house, and what factors were present for us and likely contributed to our epic in the TR. I alluded to it a little bit at the outset when I mentioned that I had messed up the dates, and then we had to try for the trip in a shortened window. But the other factors worth mentioning are: the week leading up to this trip was quite possibly one of the most stressful and demanding weeks of work of the year for me; I also took a major career exam on Friday morning; and didn't start packing until Saturday morning (we left the Seattle area Saturday evening to sleep at the TH). My headspace the week leading up to the trip was clouded with stress. If you spend time reading accident reports like I do, then you know that there are some commonalities between what I just described and many climbing accidents. Very often things snowball and start with life stressors before the trip even begins, or last-minute plans changing. I knew this going into the trip and I was actually a bit nervous about it and was trying to keep it in mind. I was not certain that we would be successful in summiting with a 2 day trip plan and impending Tstorms. But we were down to try smile.gif. Now why we kept going when we knew daylight was getting scarce? That was likely where summit fever took over, and the sunk cost fallacy- we had put in so much effort to get to where we were we really didn't want to turn back without the summit. This kind of thinking is what gets you in trouble! I truly thought we would be off the deadpan before dark but our pace slowed on the descent and we just did our best. And voila we spooned in a moat lol. After getting back from the trip I posted a poll to my insta followers about what headlamp is the best and got an overwhelming response recommending the petzl actik core, which I am now the proud owner of smile.gif Will certainly be carrying extra batteries (which I usually do! but did not on this trip- go figure).

Choss is a girl's best friend

Cam, Lightning_bug, reststep, geyer
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