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Jordan
y



Joined: 22 Feb 2008
Posts: 495 | TRs | Pics
Location: shoreline
Jordan
y
PostTue Jan 17, 2023 3:10 am 
I did GP solo about 3 years ago over two days. Followed a roped group up and around on the glacier then took disappointment down. Early august after a heavy snow year. The ice bridge was definitely showing along with a few cracks in the glacier. I don't know which route is scarier, unroped on the glacier or coming down disappointment peak. I never really felt I was in danger of falling off a cliff coming down DP but definitely in danger of rock fall. I took the route that goes just barely to the east of DP. Five years ago was my first attempt at GP with thoughts of going over DP. I studied google earth maps and decided that the route to the west of DP would be easier. On the westerly side of DP I got to about 30yrd from the summit when I came across a huge chasm in the rock. It was deep, wide and when I saw it I was basically right on top of it. I could see the bottom and it was a long way down. Scared me so much I turned around right then. The year I did summit I spied the route from the top of DP and down the westerly side. It looked rough.

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SpookyKite89
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Jordan
y



Joined: 22 Feb 2008
Posts: 495 | TRs | Pics
Location: shoreline
Jordan
y
PostTue Jan 31, 2023 6:01 am 
peter707 wrote:
Quote:
I think it would be very foolhardy to do a glacier route on Glacier Peak without boots, an Ice axe, crampons, a rope, and partner. Late season can mean very hard snow and ice. I have skied Glacier Peak in June right of Disappointment Peak, climbed the Sitkum route in September, skied the Kennedy Glacier route in April and June, and climbed the North Ridge route in August.
@gb, have you had a chance to scramble on Disappointment Peak, if so do you agree with "loose class 2 (mountaineers)", "exposed class 3" (WTA trip report), or "class 4" (summitpost)? I'm trying to figure out if I can avoid the glacier entirely.
Go barely east of the peak on Disappointment. There is somewhat of a scramble trail to follow when the snow is gone. West of the peak, no snow, you're asking for trouble. Been there.

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