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Jordan
y
Joined: 22 Feb 2008
Posts: 505 | TRs | Pics
Location: shoreline |
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Jordan
y
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 Tue Jan 17, 2023 4:10 am |
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I did GP solo about 3 years ago over two days. Followed a roped group up and around on the glacier then took disappointment down. Early august after a heavy snow year. The ice bridge was definitely showing along with a few cracks in the glacier. I don't know which route is scarier, unroped on the glacier or coming down disappointment peak. I never really felt I was in danger of falling off a cliff coming down DP but definitely in danger of rock fall.
I took the route that goes just barely to the east of DP.
Five years ago was my first attempt at GP with thoughts of going over DP. I studied google earth maps and decided that the route to the west of DP would be easier. On the westerly side of DP I got to about 30yrd from the summit when I came across a huge chasm in the rock. It was deep, wide and when I saw it I was basically right on top of it. I could see the bottom and it was a long way down. Scared me so much I turned around right then.
The year I did summit I spied the route from the top of DP and down the westerly side. It looked rough.
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 SpookyKite89
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SpookyKite89
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Jordan
y
Joined: 22 Feb 2008
Posts: 505 | TRs | Pics
Location: shoreline |
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Jordan
y
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Tue Jan 31, 2023 7:01 am |
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| peter707 wrote: | | Quote: | | I think it would be very foolhardy to do a glacier route on Glacier Peak without boots, an Ice axe, crampons, a rope, and partner. Late season can mean very hard snow and ice.
I have skied Glacier Peak in June right of Disappointment Peak, climbed the Sitkum route in September, skied the Kennedy Glacier route in April and June, and climbed the North Ridge route in August. |
@gb, have you had a chance to scramble on Disappointment Peak, if so do you agree with "loose class 2 (mountaineers)", "exposed class 3" (WTA trip report), or "class 4" (summitpost)? I'm trying to figure out if I can avoid the glacier entirely. |
Go barely east of the peak on Disappointment. There is somewhat of a scramble trail to follow when the snow is gone. West of the peak, no snow, you're asking for trouble. Been there.
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peter707
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Joined: 16 Jun 2022
Posts: 69 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle, WA |
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peter707
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Fri May 19, 2023 9:49 am |
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| Randito wrote: | | Do you and your partner have prior experience with ultra distance activities? I would suggest doing a North Bend Trifeca to first assess how you'll be feeling at the end of 33 mile 11k vft day (e.g. Tenneriffe, Mailbox, Si ) You are a lot less committed after 18 miles to bail and not do the full distance if you feel beat. A one day ascent of Mt Adams via the South Route or North Ridge would be another good test run. |
Update on this - I finished Tiger Claw 50km (+/- 8600') on Saturday, so now I should have some official ultra distance activity. Time around 9 hours 20 minutes. In practice I hope glacier peak is not 88F because that was too hot.
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zimmertr
TJ Zimmerman
Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Posts: 959 | TRs | Pics
Location: Issaquah |
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zimmertr
TJ Zimmerman
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Fri May 19, 2023 9:52 am |
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Didn't you say you did Wonderland in 4 days? That's like 4 back-to-back 50Ks which are considered Ultramarathons lol.
EDIT: I mathed bad and was thinking 3 days.
Either way I think finishing in a day is definitely in your wheelhouse provided you can remain alert and careful until after the descent from Disappointment or the glacier. Then it's just a march out.
I can't imagine not wanting to camp at Glacier Gap when given an opportunity though! Why not Bivvy?
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peter707
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Joined: 16 Jun 2022
Posts: 69 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle, WA |
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peter707
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Fri May 19, 2023 1:49 pm |
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| zimmertr wrote: | | I can't imagine not wanting to camp at Glacier Gap when given an opportunity though! Why not Bivvy? |
I'm sort of a mountaineer (RMI trip up DC route), backpacker (wonderland trail), back-country skier, and trailrunner (tiger claw 50km) at different times. I understand what motivates each group. The mountaineers peak bag, the backpackers like to thru-hike things, skiers like to lap the best snow, trailrunners like going fast. So regardless of who I go with, I can adapt to their style. Camping is wonderful.
The 6-mile one-way (12 miles round trip) of highly runnable terrain at the start/end is too irresistible to carry camping gear, for my ultramarathoner friend.
 runable spots!
zimmertr
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zimmertr
TJ Zimmerman
Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Posts: 959 | TRs | Pics
Location: Issaquah |
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zimmertr
TJ Zimmerman
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Fri May 19, 2023 1:59 pm |
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That's a great perspective! I'm planning on it this year too and that does make a single push sound more enticing to me honestly. Maybe I'll allocate a separate trip in the future for checking out the new lakes in the White Chuck Moraine.
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MangyMarmot
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Joined: 06 Apr 2012
Posts: 461 | TRs | Pics
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Glacier Peak in a day sounds doable. A two day ascent sounds more enjoyable though. Disappointment Peak is not technically difficult but the rock is very loose. Be very careful not to have anyone above or below you. From what I remember, there was maybe one climbing move.
Jordan
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