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ozzy
The hard way



Joined: 30 Jul 2015
Posts: 475 | TRs | Pics
Location: University place, wa
ozzy
The hard way
PostTue May 23, 2023 7:11 pm 
It's been nice having this streak of great weather lately though hot! So the boys and I decided we better get outta town and go for another walk. hink.gif The target this go round would be Devil's Thumb! Hell yeah! rocker.gif Bryan and I had slithered our way up Devil's Peak a few years prior. We orphaned the Thumb like the lazy bastards we are! Nonetheless we had a great reason to go back! moon.gif So like clockwork...Hans, Bryan, and yours truly met up in the wee hours of the AM and made our way out to the coal creek road. Awww yeaaaa, back to the mtn loop! I love that place. borank.gif We started hiking the overgrown road at 5am. An hour or so later we made it to the 3rd switchback, this is where one wants to head into the woods traveling WNW. We crossed a small creek right next to the road which is not on the map. After that we stayed a little too close to the creek marked on the map that drains from devil's lk. So around 3400' we had to backtrack a little to get above a cliffband, we also hit consistent snow here. Generally anytime we came to steep terrain it was usually avoided by going climbers left. Travel to get up to devil's lk was rather enjoyable and we were all digging the vibe of this forest! angel.gif Soon we found ourselves entering the basin where devil's lk lies! Oooowwwweeeee, this place is awesome, and spring melt is in its prime as well! Waterfalls galore!! eek.gif It took us just 2hrs to get here so we decided to take a nice break and watch the fog burn off. We carried snowshoes up to this point and gladly dropped them here, the snow was set up nicely. Time for some whiskey, cheers. drink.gif
the 3rd switchback
the 3rd switchback
negotiations with the cliffs
negotiations with the cliffs
postholing
postholing
first view of devil's peak
first view of devil's peak
a nice break spot
a nice break spot
After the break it was time to head up towards the devil's peak/thumb saddle. Travel through the basin was badass, the rising fog added to the mood! eek.gif The dunite rock that comprises the Thumb sets the mood too! It's so out of place lol. We were aiming for the SW ridge and were able to ride a snowfilled gully all the way up to about 4300' where it steepened a bit and the snow ended for 60ft or so. This area was all moss covered rock and wet as hell, so needless to say we climbed this spot with crampons too lol! humpy.gif After that spot we were on steep snow a short bit then gained thy SW ridge proper! From here you get some sweet views to the north towards Darrington and surrounding peaks. Now we were on the red dunite, this was definitely the funnest part of the day. banana.gif The first obstacle is a 30ft rock step that goes class 3 with exposure, fun! Then we just worked the ridge from there and found ourselves on the summit ridge before we knew it! breakdance.gif There is a spicy little notch to go up and down just before the top, well worth it though. On top at last! Yewwwww! Amazing views in all directions, especially for a peak just above 5000'! The time was 10am, 5hrs from car. It was a warming up out but we decided to chill on the top for as long as we could stand, cheers! cheers.gif
the fog lifts
the fog lifts
by devil's lk
by devil's lk
nice morning
nice morning
the Thumb above
the Thumb above
lads in the mist
lads in the mist
we took the gully to the right of the saddle
we took the gully to the right of the saddle
gully more visible
gully more visible
looking back to devil's lk
looking back to devil's lk
yeaaa bud
yeaaa bud
Hans, Bryan, devil's peak
Hans, Bryan, devil's peak
towards the top of the gully
towards the top of the gully
gettin it
gettin it
Hans going from snow to rock
Hans going from snow to rock
topping out the gully
topping out the gully
Helena lk and 3 fingers
Helena lk and 3 fingers
the summit proper
the summit proper
goodtimes
goodtimes
now we having some fun
now we having some fun
B-dawg
B-dawg
class 3 fun
class 3 fun
living on the edge
living on the edge
the summit area
the summit area
out to the east
out to the east
wow is an understatement
wow is an understatement
the last knife ridge to the true summit
the last knife ridge to the true summit
cheers
cheers
Around 1130am the heat got the best of us and we made our way down towards shade. dizzy.gif We were kinda worried with some of the downclimbing but it ended up being trivial, as usual. After we were off all the sketchy terrain we found a nice big tree by devil's lk to relax under! Nice...more relaxation and whiskey lol! rocker.gif Goddamn...one doesn't want to leave a place like this. A few hours later, like always we reluctantly left. The time was 4pm, we reached the car around 6pm. The way out was uneventful. Another most worthy endeavor into the mountains! Thanks Bryan and Hans for joining again. hockeygrin.gif I forgot how quick and accessible this little area is, it's one of my favorite scrambles for sure! Let's go get another, lads! Cheers to all! cheers.gif 9 miles or so, 3200ft gain, 12hrs casually
the spicy notch and Hans
the spicy notch and Hans
Bryan's turn
Bryan's turn
tight squeeze
tight squeeze
sub summit to the south
sub summit to the south
towards Darrington
towards Darrington
downclimbing the gully
downclimbing the gully
back on easier slopes
back on easier slopes
looking back with Bryan below
looking back with Bryan below
chill time at the lake
chill time at the lake
a great day
a great day
bushy road out
bushy road out

“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin

shane w, neek, BarbE, mosey, Bramble_Scramble, Nancyann, puzzlr, Silas, John Mac, jaysway, Tom, RichP, Theboywhocriedroute  Gimpilator
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RichP
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Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics
Location: here
RichP
Member
PostTue May 23, 2023 8:01 pm 
Cool. I recall doing this with 60 or so classmates in Boealps back in the day.

mosey  ozzy
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zephyr
aka friendly hiker



Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 3361 | TRs | Pics
Location: West Seattle
zephyr
aka friendly hiker
PostTue May 23, 2023 9:22 pm 
You make it look so easy. ha Another great trip with excellent photos. ~z

ozzy
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mntsun
Wunderer



Joined: 08 Jul 2007
Posts: 206 | TRs | Pics
Location: Squaresville
mntsun
Wunderer
PostSat Jun 03, 2023 4:28 pm 
Our April Boealps trip was almost legendarily bad, poured the entire weekend, then our fellow student doing the first pitch on Devils Peak dislocated a shoulder and we had to do a painstaking retreat...into the rain for a rainy miserable night. Poured the whole way out too. Seeing as we don't get much spring rain anymore, Devils Thumb looks like an awesome late May climb.

ozzy
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El Puma
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Joined: 13 Nov 2002
Posts: 341 | TRs | Pics
Location: Inside, wanting outside
El Puma
Member
PostTue Jun 06, 2023 8:41 am 
Very cool. Inspiration for the fall! I read "Devil's Thumb" and immediately thought of SE AK as I worked out of Petersburg and Wrangell for a while! That would be quite a different challenge biggrin.gif

ozzy
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