[boomheist]

I made a trip with Rod F about a week after the initial loop through the Northern Olympics with Jeff, this time to head for Cedar Lake, a traverse across to Cameron Basin, and then out the Grand Valley. Rod and I planned to be out six to seven days. The weather remained iffy - we thought we'd leave on a Saturday and put it off until a Monday due to rains. Day 1: Met Rod at his house in Sequim and we drove in my car to Deer Park. Rod had left a truck at Obstruction Point. We thought maybe we'd complete the Cameron Traverse then do the Lake Lillian traverse back to Grand Ridge but it all depended on the weather and our energy. On this first day I carried a shoulder bag with my food, some dry clothes, and a one man tent, using my fishing pole as a walking stick, and we dropped down off Deer Park to Three Forks Shelter, then picked up the GrayWolf Trail and within a couple of hours we arrived at Camp Ellis and I retrieved my cached pack.

Rod as we started out - see my pole and pouch which I carried until we reached my pack at Camp Ellis 7 miles in

Jeff and Rod Northern Park 195

I have never been the brightest bulb in the room and the way I'd stashed it meant that after all this rain it was pretty wet, so we set up camp at Camp Ellis and built a big fire and dried everything out for a few hours. It was very necessary. It's a nice place to camp, the weather stayed good, and we had a great evening.

Drying out my pack at Camp Ellis

Day 2: The weather was still pretty good although Rod's radio started predicting "rain in the Olympics." We worked our way up to Falls Shelter, or I should say the pile of ash and burned logs that was the shelter, and then we headed up the Cedar lake Trail to Cedar lake. This is a nice way trail, well maintained, and very pretty what with the meadows waterfalls and nice views of the peaks ahead.

Jeff and Rod Northern Park 068

Jeff and Rod Northern Park 210

Cedar Lake - out campsite to the right. We climbed up the rocks and meadows to the left then worked around to the right to that low point.

We arrived at Cedar lake in the mid afternoon, set up camp at the northwest end, and then decided to hike up the way trail to the pass between the Cedar Lake basin and the GrayWolf Basin and GrayWolf Pass. It's a great hike, climbing maybe 1,000 feet, maybe a little less, and when we arrived at the pass we could see Gray Wolf Pass, the trail below, and some tarns. Very beautiful. We had great views behind us of Cedar lake and we elected to take a route for the traverse which hopefully would avoid working through trees and brush at the lake's northwest end.

Looking back at Cedar Lake from upper way trail over to Graywolf Basin

View from pass between Cedar Lake and GrayWolf Pass showing GrayWolf basin

Day 3: Despite predictions of rain the day started fine. We packed up and started to work our way to the traverse. We climbed rocks and then meadows at the lake's northwest end to rise above the trees and brush, and then we side-hilled up and down around a shoulder to the gully leading to the first notch northwest of Cedar lake on the ridge, at about 6000 feet. There was a snowfield leading to the notch with footprints on it going and coming, but once we dropped into the basin beyond we saw no sign of people for two days.

Looking back at Cedar Lake as we started our climb toward the traverse

Last snowfield on the way to the notch above Cedar Lake leading to Cameron Traverse

It was a steep descent off the notch over meadows, rocks and boulders. We dropped into a large and beautiful basin.

Rod dropping from the notch above Cedar Lake into the Cameron traverse

Rod working down the boulder field on the Cameron traverrse

From the notch we had seen the possible route of thew traverse, a long side hill traverse around a shoulder, then a climb beside the gully at the second stream way up high to a basin beyond and a long steep moraine that appeared to lead directly to the pass beyond. Rod had notes and information from Ethorsen, plus good maps, and we felt we were well warned.

Inner Basin Route

When we reached the bottom of the basin we stopped by a stream draining snow and upper tarns and there we had some lunch. The skies had clouded over and now it began to rain, first some heavy drops then a steady flow. In the rain we started the long traverse along the brushy and steep side hill. From the notch we'd seen some game trails but once on the slope we saw no trails. The going was slow, wet, brushy, rocky, and we had some gullies to cross.

We traversed around that slope that lies ahead

View from the notch above Cedar lake showing the Cameron Traverse basin, sidehill we had to work around, and far away the moraine and ridge to Cloudy Pass - about five miles away

Rod working uphill after the sidehill in heavy rain.

Long traverse

I started to wonder if we'd have to turn back but we kept on and eventually made it around the rocky ridge the dropped into the slope and then we were at a deep and steep rocky gully draining the glacier high above. The gully was fifty feet deep and steep as hell, and beyond it all we could see were ridges and cliffs. Maybe we could have dropped down 1000 feet to cross but then what? Looking up the gully we could see about 800 feet above us that the gully ended in the rocks and snow, so we decided to climb straight up the rocky meadow and then the rocks to the snowfields above.

Working up the steep slope by the gulley - even a spring flower here in September

The top of our climb beside the gulley to the glaciers

A Cameron glacier - we worked across the snow to the right to get to the little notch that led to our high camp.

Once we reached the snowfields above we were able to cross the stream and work west and higher over snow to some rugged scraped rocks and then to a rough but doable ledge that appeared to lead across the next spine of cliffs to (hopefully) an area where we might camp and get to the next basin. It was raining hard all day.

The top of our climb beside the gulley to the glaciers

From our upper camp looking at the moraine and ridge line we had to climb to get to Cloudy Pass

This is the tricky move to get to the upper camp. Rod found a way to the elft; I came over those rocks in the center and nearlyt fell thirty feet. Sketchy

When we made it over the little notch, a place where I nearly fell thirty feet which would have made for a very interesting trip, we came upon a slightly level small area with a couple of nice level places for tents, a small tarn still fed by snow for water, and some short trees. We were at 5890 feet and we decided to camp here. Looking over the edge just west we could see far below two small lakes and then the long steep moraine and ridge that appeared to lead up over 1000 feet to the pass leading to Cameron Basin. I was already a bit nervous, remembering how the other side of that pass had appeared from Cameron Pass - steep and impossible to descend. However, the idea of backtrackling was less and less appealing. We set up our tents in the rain and made dinner and had a fairly restful if wet and windy night.

From our upper camp looking at the moraine and ridge line we had to climb to get to Cloudy Pass

Rod at our high traverse camp, trying to dry out in the morning before departing

Day 4: In the early morning before sunrise I arose and saw that it was clear outside and you could see the stars, and by dawn the skies were partly clear and we were able to stretch things out and dry them in the wind for an hour or two before going on. There was no obvious way down to the lakes below but during the night Rod heard an elk go past very close and so we looked for elk paths and found one to the right which dropped alongside snow and then turned west and descended to the basin below. We worked down these gullies and the across big rocks and boulder, dropping all the while, until we were on a broad snowfield above the lakes, which we crossed before starting up the long steep moraine and ridge.

From our upper camp looking at the moraine and ridge line we had to climb to get to Cloudy Pass

Rod having a snack before we tackled the moraine and ridge

It was raining hard but fortunately warm

Taking a break on the climb up the moraine. I have no idea why I was smiling.

This ridge was steep, rocky and muddy, and fell away sharply on both sides, but the going was straightforward and direct. We worked higher and higher and then the ridge led to a snow-filled gully that rose up to a high basin within which lay a deep and fairly large lake, mostly covered still with ice and snow. We stopped here to reconnoiter, and I fell through some snow and cut my thumb badly on a sharp rock, but with sufficient bandages it help up for the rest of the trip.

The moraine and ridge we climbed toward Cloudy Pass

Rod starting off to work up the rocks beside the steep snowfield, which we had to avoid

Lake at 6350 feet just below Cloudy Pass still mostly covered in snow and ice

Near the pass looking back at the snowfield drop-off to the ice-covered tarn

Rod just below the crest of Cloudy Pass

From the lake the obvious route was directly up the snowfield above the lake toward the pass, but the snow was steep and icy, and we didn't have crampons. Instead we elected to work up the rocks and slopes beside the snow and then angle around to the top of the gully, where we came upon more snow but an easy walk up the last rise to the pass itself. It was raining hard and cloudy, and foggy, so the pass became Cloudy Pass. And just as on the east side of the pass there was deep snow everywhere, the west side of the pass was barren ground.

Upper Cameron Basin - you can see Cloudy Pass in the left center, still looking damn steep

Upper Cameron Basin

Cloudy Pass from upper Cameron Basin

Typical dinner weather

I had been afraid we'd get to this point and then have to turn around because the way down would be so steep, but to our surprise the slopes were not bad at all, and in the end we had an easy and straight forward walk off the pass into upper Cameron basin. There we wandered through some great country before joining the Cameron pass Trail above the meadows, and there we found a terrific campsite with several tent spots, so we set up camp here. Again, the rain poured all through dinner and for most of the night, and the forecast continued to give "rain in the Olympics." Day 5: This day broke foggy and wet, with standing pools of water all around. We packed up and started off.

Getting ready to leave Cameron basin for Grand Valley

Our traverse from the Grand Valley trail.

Our traverse from the Grand Valley trail.

The meadows just south of Grand Pass

We had the choice of returning down the Cameron Creek Trail all the way to Three Forks and then up to Deer Park or taking the Grand Pass Trail to Grand Pass and then working through Grand Valley to Obstruction Point. Rod had never been in Grand Valley itself and by the time we reached the trail junction the day was clearing a bit and the rain had stopped, so we elected to head for Grand pass, about a 2500 foot climb. This was a great choice because on the way up this trail we could look back south across the valley and see before us most of the ameron Traverse, even the steep gully we'd climbed alongside to the snows, and even where we'd camped up high. Later on at the pass itself the weather was fine and the upper meadows beautiful. Then as we started down into Grand Valley the weather socked in again and by the time we reached Gladys Lake it was raining again, so we set up camp and had yet another dinner in the rain. There was nobody else in Grand Valley as far as we could see, we had the place to ourselves.

Jeff and Rod Northern Park 382

Gladys Lake Grand Valley

Jeff and Rod Northern Park 382

Another night of rain at Gladys Lake in Grand Valley

Day 6: It rained most of the night but daylight dawned crystal clear, even though the forecast gave rain everywhere. Somehow the Grand valley peaks and area were in a bright spot and all that day as we worked down past Moose and Grand Lakes the sun shone brightly and we got sunburns. We ran into Lily the ranger coming up from Grand Lake and she kindly took a picture of us together.

Moose Lake - nobody at all in Grand Valley except Lily the ranger

Lily the ranger took our picture on our last day as we left Grand Valley.

Rod as we came out of Grand Valley onb the last day

Last day we had sun all day but clouds thick everywhere else

Rod on the last climb out of Grand Valley

It took a few hours to work up the switchbacks to Lillian Ridge. Rod left his raincoat down below drying and had to go back for it, and we ran into some other hikers at last as we topped Lillian Ridge.It was a pleasant and easy walk over the ridge to obstruction Point. When we got there the clouds surrounding the park were closing in and by the time Rod and I loaded his truck for the long haul back to Deer Park and my car it was foggy and thick. We got to Deer Park about four-thirty, I got into my car, and we both headed for our respective homes in the rain. Despite the weather this was a great trip with some great scenery. We never did the Lake Lillian traverse but we did do the Cameron Traverse thanks to Ethorson and Rod's map-reading skills. The route we took is marked here and is an accurate route of where we went.

This is a map Rod prepared of the route we took. The traverse is actually very self-explanatory, there's really only one clear route.

So I was darn lucky - two six day trips over a period of 18 days, all in the northern Olympics, many passes - Grand, Cameron, Lost, Hayden, GrayWolf - 1,000 acre meadow, Sentinel peak, Cedar lake, Cedar lake way trail to GrayWolf Pass, Cameron Traverse, Cloudy Pass, and lots of high alpine camps in rain and shine. On both trips we practically had the area to ourselves. That's some great country with lots of interesting areas to explore and look at, and I've already got a few more trips planned for the future.

[Magellan]

Very nice part two.

[bobbi]

great stuff, guys your weather was about the same when i did this last summer, minus the cameron traverse. i am curious to see what the way trail to cedar lake looks like because it was a bit icky when i was on it. maybe there was more maintenance since i was there. that sure is a pretty lake. caught my first fish there.

[reststep]

Great job and not in the best of weather. It sure looks like some amazing country. When I see reports like yours and Danes and Lucs it makes me realize how much of the Olympics I have not been to yet. Thank you for sharing.

[mdvaden]

Nice color in that lake. Any idea what kind of depth it has?

[Dave Weyrick]

How was the fishing in Cedar Lake? Grand lake? The reproducing RB in Cedar were averaging about 10" when I visited in July 2003 and the reproducing Brook Trout were a bit larger in Grand when I was there in 2005. I think in Grand they were larger than when I caught a bunch of skinny brookies in about 1975 because of the presence of a river otter.

[ethorson]

Great trip report! I am glad that you accomplished your objectives in spite of the snow and weather. When I did it the route it was taxing even with perfect weather and normal snow conditions. The area really has some interesting topography and challenging route finding.

[ScottM]

Very nice trip guys. It seems to me as I was sitting next to Cedar Lake having lunch with RodF a couple of years ago he mentioned something about this traverse. Too bad about the weather but at least you had a few good days.

[NWtrax]

Rough way to start a trip and even tougher to soldier through those less than optimal condtitions. Spectacular scenery none the less and an impressive finish to two great weeks in the Olympics. Thanks for your report!

[Dane]

Yes, way to persevere and navigate through that weather This is one I hope to do someday. Geez, so many possible traverses! In 2009 I was hoping to traverse Cameron on the ridgeline, but I've never gotten a good look at that or seen pictures of the terrain up there. Doesn't look too bad on the map.

[silence]

epic olympic traverse -- esp with the lingering snow and less than ideal weather ... strong work you guys .. i know rod has talked about doing this .. way to get er done my friend great pix and tr .. thx for sharing! it's just as i thought .. too tuff for us now off to read your other tr .. which i missed??

[Eaglecadd]

Oh, OK I see the map. Yeah where these guys tarversed by their 5400 traverse note, we went North, camped on the hillside at two flat areas and then Farther North crossing the stream and down along the creek to the valley and then up to lake at 5115