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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Tue May 24, 2016 12:59 am
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My trip to Catleap Peak this month reminded me that I never posted a report of this earlier climb of Big Methow Needle.
Date: May 26, 2012
Destination: Big Methow Needle 8160 (USGS Washington Pass)
Party: Matt, mtnmike
Other Party: Jim Brisbine, Fay Pullen, Eileen Brisbine, Kevin Koski
The Needles is a group of rock pinnacles north of SR 20 across from Lone Fir Campground.
Needle 8140, the summit marked on USGS maps, is a scramble to a fine viewpoint.
Needle 8160, the highest needle, is a rock climb to a 1739P, T200 peak.
In July 2011, we first attempted Needle 8160, but were stopped by a deep moat and too little equipment. A side trip up Needle 8140 made a good consolation prize. Needles 8140 trip report here.
In May 2011, we returned to Needle 8160 with more snow and more equipment and enjoyed a successful climb to a rarely visit summit.
Since there are several other Needles in Washington, Brisbine suggested calling the group “Methow Needles” to distinguish its location, and calling Point 8160 “Big Methow Needle” to identify our intention to climb the highest needle. So BMN it was for this trip.
The Needles viewed from Hinkhouse false summit in 2011 2 labels North face of The Needles, viewed from Catleap in 2014 Big Methow Needle GPS Track
The Approach
Two different groups converged on BMN. We had planned the trip separately, but were aware of each other. As Mike and I left the road and started hiking into the woods, we saw the other group drive by. Concerned about time, we continued onward, but met up with them later at the base of the climb.
The approach is eased greatly by an unlisted, but well-maintained, trail on the south side of Pine Creek. The trail begins about 100 feet south of the guard rail where Pine Creek runs under the highway. It's not visible from the highway, but you can find it uphill along the creek.
The trail disappeared in snow and avalanche debris around 4400 feet. We ascended a snowy gully upward, using a rib on the right to bypass a waterfall.
Creekside view of the gully we went up Bypassing waterfalls on the ridge crest Mike high in the gully
Around 6600 feet, we angled northwest on easier terrain to the base of the climb. While we were assembling out gear, the other group arrived from an approach farther west. We all met at the base of a smaller outcrop just west of the summit to assemble our climbing gear.
Approaching BMN 1 label Mike traversing in from the southeast Everyone arriving at the outcrop, with Pine Creek 3200 feet below
The Route
The route starts from a narrow snow-filled col. On our previous attempt, that was our crux, because the snow was low and moated, making it very difficult to get onto the route. This time the snow was higher, forming a steep crest at the col. From there the route had five parts:
- After a briefly steep start, angle upward slightly left on easier rock to a small tree then slightly right to a corner by another small tree (one 5th class move at the start)
- Follow ledges rightward up to a wide midway ledge below the crux crack.
- Climb the mid-5th-class crack and continue up the edge of a lichen-covered slab to the next anchor.
- Scramble up broken rock to a notch in the crest (3rd class).
- Make a steep scramble up to the summit (4th class).
Snow levels at the col in 2011 and 2012 route viewed from just east of the spur (upper pitches are compressed vertically by the angle looking up) 1 label Route illustrated on a photo of BMN from Needles 8140 in 2011
The Climb
We needed rock shoes for the climb, but had to start from the snow crest in the col, with the first step onto a partly icy rock. So we first stomped steps across the snow with our boots and buried a picket for an anchor. No one wanted to fall off the snow onto the steep gullies on either side.
I led the first pitch, going up to the small tree and continuing on with the traverse up to the wide ledge below the crux crack. This worked okay, but caused rope drag at the corner. The other party broke this part into two pitches, with a belay at the tree, so that part of the group could be moving on each section. Some people considered the first ten feet, till you get around an overhanging bulge, to be the hardest move of the climb.
The crack pitch was the longest difficult section. I climbed it vertically, with one foot and my hands holding on the crack while my other foot was out on the face. Some of the others did it more stylishly with a lieback. Above that, it took some careful but not difficult climbing up along the edge of a licheny slab to the next anchor. From there, mtnmike and I scrambled up to the crest below the summit outcrop.
Gearing up on the outcrop spur Picket anchor at the bottom of the route Start of the route Setting the first piece at the base of the route Kevin belaying Fay at the first corner (looking down from the midway ledge) The crux crack
The short steep summit scramble had some snow on it, so Mike belayed me up to tag the summit. Then we switched places and I belayed him up.
Mike at the top belay below the summit Mike on the summit
Summit views:
The view east (with some stitch distortion in the foreground)
Tower & Golden Horn Ballard & Azurite Eldorado catches the light
Soon the other group began arriving. Since I was already set up to belay, I belayed each of them to the top as well.
Jim arriving Eileen arriving Fay arriving Ken Arriving Fotos, food, & rope on sub-summit ledge
Descent
We all shared a single rope rappel down to the midway ledge below the crux, then a double rope rappel to the snow col. The lower rappel angled sideways, so it required resetting one's angle on a big rock before the steep final part.
Kathleen rappelling at top of the crux Fay rappelling past the crux synchronized rope throwing Kevin midway on the lower rappel
A few local views from the midway ledge:
Our gear stash Shadow of BMN on Needle 8140
A few last views from gear outcrop:
Late afternoon light on Hinkhouse Late afternoon light on Cutthroat Tower & Golden Horn
Exit
For variety, we descended the other party's approach route, which was okay, but required a steep traverse around one spot.
Down by Pine Creek, I paused to photograph some of the glacier lilies in the snow. If climbing a peak is a challenge, just consider what glacier lilies accomplish sprouting and blooming through the snow.
Glacier lilies in the snow tiny flower through a window of new snow Glacier lily success
Stats: 6.6 miles, 4360 gain, 12:20 hours (multiple parties on route added about 1.5 hours time)
Bonus Video: Six climbers on one ledge preparing for a rappel:
A couple other interesting trip reports for BMN:
Tom Sjolseth, May 2008
Gimpilator, July 2014
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
This is a very fun peak and it's great to see another report for it. When we climbed it, the only beta I could find online was Tom's failed attempt report, which is to say we had no beta aside from the Beckey guide. After our climb I created an informational page on Summitpost. However, your route photos are more detailed than mine and should be all that anyone needs to figure it out.
Matt wrote: | Snow levels at the col in 2011 and 2012 |
During our 2014 climb, the snow had fully receded from the wall and we had to climb down into a moat and start the first pitch from there. The rock was a bit crumbly at the start and the first move out of the moat seemed like the hardest to me.
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awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1323 | TRs | Pics
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Wow, that looks awesome! Nice work!
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
thanks for posting this, even though it's been a few yrs. this pk has been on my mind lately, so thanks again!
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Sculpin Member
Joined: 23 Apr 2015 Posts: 1376 | TRs | Pics
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Sculpin
Member
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Wed May 25, 2016 3:28 pm
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Matt wrote:
"The approach is eased greatly by an unlisted, but well-maintained, trail on the south side of Pine Creek."
Anyone know where the trail goes?
Between every two pines is a doorway to the new world. - John Muir
Between every two pines is a doorway to the new world. - John Muir
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
We followed the trail to where it ended at 4500 on the south bank of Pine Creek, which is a good place to cross. Immediately on the other side (north bank) of the creek, there was a stash of old camping supplies under a tarp which appears to be a hunters camp of sorts. If I had to guess, the trail is maintained, or was maintained by bear hunters. There's not a lot of deer sign in that meadow, but there is plenty of bear sign and scat all over.
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