Forum Index > Trip Reports > Big Methow Needle (The Needles, Washington Pass) 5/26/2012
 Reply to topic
Previous :: Next Topic
Author Message
Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot



Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline
Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
PostTue May 24, 2016 12:59 am 
My trip to Catleap Peak this month reminded me that I never posted a report of this earlier climb of Big Methow Needle. Date: May 26, 2012 Destination: Big Methow Needle 8160 (USGS Washington Pass) Party: Matt, mtnmike Other Party: Jim Brisbine, Fay Pullen, Eileen Brisbine, Kevin Koski The Needles is a group of rock pinnacles north of SR 20 across from Lone Fir Campground. Needle 8140, the summit marked on USGS maps, is a scramble to a fine viewpoint. Needle 8160, the highest needle, is a rock climb to a 1739P, T200 peak. In July 2011, we first attempted Needle 8160, but were stopped by a deep moat and too little equipment. A side trip up Needle 8140 made a good consolation prize. Needles 8140 trip report here. In May 2011, we returned to Needle 8160 with more snow and more equipment and enjoyed a successful climb to a rarely visit summit. Since there are several other Needles in Washington, Brisbine suggested calling the group “Methow Needles” to distinguish its location, and calling Point 8160 “Big Methow Needle” to identify our intention to climb the highest needle. So BMN it was for this trip.
The Needles viewed from Hinkhouse false summit in 2011
The Needles viewed from Hinkhouse false summit in 2011
North face of The Needles, viewed from Catleap in 2014
2 labels
North face of The Needles, viewed from Catleap in 2014
Big Methow Needle GPS Track
Big Methow Needle GPS Track
The Approach Two different groups converged on BMN. We had planned the trip separately, but were aware of each other. As Mike and I left the road and started hiking into the woods, we saw the other group drive by. Concerned about time, we continued onward, but met up with them later at the base of the climb. The approach is eased greatly by an unlisted, but well-maintained, trail on the south side of Pine Creek. The trail begins about 100 feet south of the guard rail where Pine Creek runs under the highway. It's not visible from the highway, but you can find it uphill along the creek. The trail disappeared in snow and avalanche debris around 4400 feet. We ascended a snowy gully upward, using a rib on the right to bypass a waterfall.
Creekside view of the gully we went up
Creekside view of the gully we went up
Bypassing waterfalls on the ridge crest
Bypassing waterfalls on the ridge crest
Mike high in the gully
Mike high in the gully
Around 6600 feet, we angled northwest on easier terrain to the base of the climb. While we were assembling out gear, the other group arrived from an approach farther west. We all met at the base of a smaller outcrop just west of the summit to assemble our climbing gear.
Approaching BMN
Approaching BMN
Mike traversing in from the southeast
1 label
Mike traversing in from the southeast
Everyone arriving at the outcrop, with Pine Creek 3200 feet below
Everyone arriving at the outcrop, with Pine Creek 3200 feet below
The Route The route starts from a narrow snow-filled col. On our previous attempt, that was our crux, because the snow was low and moated, making it very difficult to get onto the route. This time the snow was higher, forming a steep crest at the col. From there the route had five parts:
  1. After a briefly steep start, angle upward slightly left on easier rock to a small tree then slightly right to a corner by another small tree (one 5th class move at the start)
  2. Follow ledges rightward up to a wide midway ledge below the crux crack.
  3. Climb the mid-5th-class crack and continue up the edge of a lichen-covered slab to the next anchor.
  4. Scramble up broken rock to a notch in the crest (3rd class).
  5. Make a steep scramble up to the summit (4th class).
Snow levels at the col in 2011 and 2012
Snow levels at the col in 2011 and 2012
route viewed from just east of the spur (upper pitches are compressed vertically by the angle looking up)
route viewed from just east of the spur (upper pitches are compressed vertically by the angle looking up)
Route illustrated on a photo of BMN from Needles 8140 in 2011
1 label
Route illustrated on a photo of BMN from Needles 8140 in 2011
The Climb We needed rock shoes for the climb, but had to start from the snow crest in the col, with the first step onto a partly icy rock. So we first stomped steps across the snow with our boots and buried a picket for an anchor. No one wanted to fall off the snow onto the steep gullies on either side. I led the first pitch, going up to the small tree and continuing on with the traverse up to the wide ledge below the crux crack. This worked okay, but caused rope drag at the corner. The other party broke this part into two pitches, with a belay at the tree, so that part of the group could be moving on each section. Some people considered the first ten feet, till you get around an overhanging bulge, to be the hardest move of the climb. The crack pitch was the longest difficult section. I climbed it vertically, with one foot and my hands holding on the crack while my other foot was out on the face. Some of the others did it more stylishly with a lieback. Above that, it took some careful but not difficult climbing up along the edge of a licheny slab to the next anchor. From there, mtnmike and I scrambled up to the crest below the summit outcrop.
Gearing up on the outcrop spur
Gearing up on the outcrop spur
Picket anchor at the bottom of the route
Picket anchor at the bottom of the route
Start of the route
Start of the route
Setting the first piece at the base of the route
Setting the first piece at the base of the route
Kevin belaying Fay at the first corner (looking down from the midway ledge)
Kevin belaying Fay at the first corner (looking down from the midway ledge)
The crux crack
The crux crack
The short steep summit scramble had some snow on it, so Mike belayed me up to tag the summit. Then we switched places and I belayed him up.
Mike at the top belay below the summit
Mike at the top belay below the summit
Mike on the summit
Mike on the summit
Summit views:
The view east (with some stitch distortion in the foreground)
The view east (with some stitch distortion in the foreground)
Tower & Golden Horn
Tower & Golden Horn
Ballard  & Azurite
Ballard & Azurite
Eldorado catches the light
Eldorado catches the light
Soon the other group began arriving. Since I was already set up to belay, I belayed each of them to the top as well.
Jim arriving
Jim arriving
Eileen arriving
Eileen arriving
Fay arriving
Fay arriving
Ken Arriving
Ken Arriving
Fotos, food, & rope on sub-summit ledge
Fotos, food, & rope on sub-summit ledge
Descent We all shared a single rope rappel down to the midway ledge below the crux, then a double rope rappel to the snow col. The lower rappel angled sideways, so it required resetting one's angle on a big rock before the steep final part.
Kathleen rappelling at top of the crux
Kathleen rappelling at top of the crux
Fay rappelling past the crux
Fay rappelling past the crux
synchronized rope throwing
synchronized rope throwing
Kevin midway on the lower rappel
Kevin midway on the lower rappel
A few local views from the midway ledge:
Our gear stash
Our gear stash
Shadow of BMN on Needle 8140
Shadow of BMN on Needle 8140
A few last views from gear outcrop:
Late afternoon light on Hinkhouse
Late afternoon light on Hinkhouse
Late afternoon light on Cutthroat
Late afternoon light on Cutthroat
Tower & Golden Horn
Tower & Golden Horn
Exit For variety, we descended the other party's approach route, which was okay, but required a steep traverse around one spot. Down by Pine Creek, I paused to photograph some of the glacier lilies in the snow. If climbing a peak is a challenge, just consider what glacier lilies accomplish sprouting and blooming through the snow.
Glacier lilies in the snow
Glacier lilies in the snow
tiny flower through a window of new snow
tiny flower through a window of new snow
Glacier lily success
Glacier lily success
Stats: 6.6 miles, 4360 gain, 12:20 hours (multiple parties on route added about 1.5 hours time) Bonus Video: Six climbers on one ledge preparing for a rappel:
A couple other interesting trip reports for BMN: Tom Sjolseth, May 2008 Gimpilator, July 2014

“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostTue May 24, 2016 7:16 am 
This is a very fun peak and it's great to see another report for it. When we climbed it, the only beta I could find online was Tom's failed attempt report, which is to say we had no beta aside from the Beckey guide. After our climb I created an informational page on Summitpost. However, your route photos are more detailed than mine and should be all that anyone needs to figure it out.
Matt wrote:
Snow levels at the col in 2011 and 2012
Snow levels at the col in 2011 and 2012
During our 2014 climb, the snow had fully receded from the wall and we had to climb down into a moat and start the first pitch from there. The rock was a bit crumbly at the start and the first move out of the moat seemed like the hardest to me.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
awilsondc
Member
Member


Joined: 03 Apr 2016
Posts: 1323 | TRs | Pics
awilsondc
Member
PostTue May 24, 2016 7:29 am 
Wow, that looks awesome! eek.gif up.gif Nice work!

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
raising3hikers
Member
Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2007
Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, Wa
raising3hikers
Member
PostTue May 24, 2016 6:45 pm 
thanks for posting this, even though it's been a few yrs. this pk has been on my mind lately, so thanks again!

Eric Eames
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Sculpin
Member
Member


Joined: 23 Apr 2015
Posts: 1376 | TRs | Pics
Sculpin
Member
PostWed May 25, 2016 3:28 pm 
Matt wrote: "The approach is eased greatly by an unlisted, but well-maintained, trail on the south side of Pine Creek." Anyone know where the trail goes?

Between every two pines is a doorway to the new world. - John Muir
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostWed May 25, 2016 4:30 pm 
We followed the trail to where it ended at 4500 on the south bank of Pine Creek, which is a good place to cross. Immediately on the other side (north bank) of the creek, there was a stash of old camping supplies under a tarp which appears to be a hunters camp of sorts. If I had to guess, the trail is maintained, or was maintained by bear hunters. There's not a lot of deer sign in that meadow, but there is plenty of bear sign and scat all over.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
   All times are GMT - 8 Hours
 Reply to topic
Forum Index > Trip Reports > Big Methow Needle (The Needles, Washington Pass) 5/26/2012
  Happy Birthday noahk!
Jump to:   
Search this topic:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum