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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
I've had Liberty Cap on my mind all winter and spring. It's my last peak to finish off the Top 100 with at least 400' of clean prominence. Finishing the Bulger list leaves one with 7 more peaks to clean it all up-Sherman, Colfax, Lincoln, Luna, Castle, Ballard and Liberty Cap.
Liberty Cap on Left, taken from Glacier View area 2014
I applied for a solo permit from MRNP a couple months ago, it took a while getting my approval e-mail back but I got it! I was approved for a solo trip up the DC route, so I would make that my way to go get Liberty Cap.
In short, leave Paradise-climb DC route to summit of Rainier, descend to the N saddle, climb Liberty Cap. Descend Liberty Cap to saddle, then climb back up towards summit of Rainier and back down the DC route.
Friday around 4pm, I arrived at Paradise to get my permit and hope for some rest before setting off on a single push up the mountain. As the hours went by, I knew I wasn't going to get any sleep before the climb. So, if I wasn't going to get any sleep, I thought that I'd better get going now.
At 8:30pm, I was off hiking up the snow towards Muir. On the way, clouds started forming around Rainier's summit, they looked as if the were lenticular clouds. Those usually form when the weather is going to change for the worse. The forecast said is was supposed to be fine but I had to keep an eye on the sky.
the Tatoosh Range and Adams red sky to the West lenticular clouds over Rainier
I arrived at Camp Muir as several parties from a guide service were leaving. I put my warmer jackets on as it was getting pretty cold. At Ingraham flats, I ran into the last of the guided parties, I decided to stay behind them so that they could keep their groups together through the DC. There was a huge crevasse crossing with a sidewalk sized snow bridge to cross it below the icefall. The guides have a ladder nearby once it collapses. The cleaver was a mix of rock and then snow. At the top of it, the guided groups took a break which allowed me to pass.
I found a couple other climbing teams ahead and passed at their break spots. When I was around 13500', it started getting light. A couple small crevasse hops and a little more gain, I found myself at the summit crater as the sun was rising from the East.
at the summit crater sunrise
My plan was to make a straight line towards the spot NE of the Rainier summit to where I would have to drop 800' to the Liberty Cap saddle. I passed register rock and after hiking for over 9 hrs, I finally got a view of Liberty Cap.
Last time I climbed Rainier, I got a headache around 12500', this time I had no headache but got really tired. I was slow to descend to the saddle and must have taken a dozen short breaks to the summit.
my first view of Liberty Cap Liberty Cap looking back up at Rainier another shot of Liberty Cap with crevasses
On my way up, I could see some tracks coming down from the peak, they must have come up Liberty Ridge a day or 2 ago. Even though I was very tired, it was an easy hike up. I told my kids that I would be thinking about them from the summit Saturday morning, so around 7am, I waved towards Edmonds.
Liberty Cap summit shot Nesatin pk far down below
I dreaded the hike back up 800' to the crater rim, lots of breaks were had as I made my way. By the time I got back up there, most of the big parties had left. A couple smaller groups were still heading up on my way down the mountain. On my way down, I was able to admire the huge crevasses that blanketed the mountain. There are some big ones out right now!
ice fall Little Tahoma
On top of the Disappointment cleaver, I sat down on a rock and closed my eyes a bit to take a rest. Soon, I felt myself start to nod off and knew it was time to get down off the mountain. I could hear the Ingraham glacier dropping some ice several times as I went down. It was cool to see the ice fall area now that it was daylight. Tough to believe that the Ingraham direct was in just a couple months ago with the amount of jumbled glacier.
Ingraham glacier a big deep crevasse Ingraham ice fall another deep crevasse
Once I hit Camp Muir, I felt much better! That altitude above was messing with me a little bit and maybe a lack of sleep. On the way down, there were countless more people going up to Muir, a busy place for sure. I regained some energy and made it back to the parking lot in little over an hour.
16.8 miles
10600' elevation gain
16hrs 30min
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Dustin Trails Member
Joined: 23 Feb 2015 Posts: 116 | TRs | Pics Location: Ashford, WA |
Awesome day trip! We have been tossing around the idea of doing something similar. It's funny we keep ending up in the same areas. Eightmile and Jack Ridge last Saturday and I summitted Rainier yesterday as well (but no trip to Liberty Cap).
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Distel32 Member
Joined: 03 Jun 2014 Posts: 961 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
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Distel32
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Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:06 pm
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Great accomplishment, Eric. Glad you had a great (and safe) trip up.
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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:32 pm
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That's awesome! I hope to do Rainier car to car this year as well although I doubt I'll have the energy to do LC. That's an awesome achievement! Assuming you're going for the T200s now?
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:47 pm
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PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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gbrill85 Member
Joined: 05 Jun 2016 Posts: 1 | TRs | Pics
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gbrill85
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Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:48 pm
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Good job. Though, keep in mind though, that by doing that popular route solo you are bringing a lot of negative attention with every guide and rope team look at you thinking "if he falls through a crevasse or hurts himself, we are going to end up saving him"
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:53 pm
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Eric is a highly skilled climber ... and while it may appear to be a risk going solo he knows his abilities and limitations ... besides it can be just as much a risk with a team (I won't to go there now, but there have been more Rainier incidents with 2 or more climbers on a team).
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Sun Jun 05, 2016 8:54 pm
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Congrats on finishing the list.
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
raising3hikers wrote: | this time I had no headache but got really tired. |
Eric! I think you are entitled to get really tired doing a straight-through climb like this.
Happy for you, and relieved you made the solo trip safely.
Your energy and accomplishments are inspiring and encouraging when I feel tired on a hike, which is probably most of the time these days!
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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Justus S. Member
Joined: 17 Nov 2004 Posts: 1298 | TRs | Pics Location: WA |
Nice! Congrats as well!
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Redwic Unlisted Free Agent
Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 3292 | TRs | Pics Location: Going to the Prom(inence) |
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Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
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Mon Jun 06, 2016 5:58 am
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60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6391 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
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Mon Jun 06, 2016 6:23 am
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breakS with an "S"? WTH? is this r3h?
i was actually picturing you bringing up your overnight gear, getting to camp and having it be too early, then just deciding to day trip it anyway like you did a few years ago on some 32 mile trip (i thought it was robinson, but it doesn't look like it).
congrats on the accomplishment. i assume you're probably the 2nd or 3rd fastest to complete the T100x400 list behind franklin and tom? perhaps the oracle will confirm. it's quite an achievement!!!
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5085 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:26 am
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raising3hikers wrote: | I was slow to descend to the saddle and must have taken a dozen short breaks to the summit. |
Your breaks are called rest steps to us! That's normal!!!!
Congrats! You are a monster.
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b00 Member
Joined: 29 Sep 2003 Posts: 1144 | TRs | Pics
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b00
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Mon Jun 06, 2016 10:00 am
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raising3hikers wrote: | Once I hit Camp Muir, I felt much better.... and made it back to the parking lot in little over an hour. |
did you pass any skiers on the way down? i think that's about the amount of time it takes me to ski down from muir sometimes!
congrats on completing the list! looking forward to the next time we do a trip.
:>)
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DIYSteve seeking hygge
Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 12655 | TRs | Pics Location: here now |
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
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Mon Jun 06, 2016 11:16 am
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