Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Stickney - 7/14/2016
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Gimpilator
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PostThu Jul 14, 2016 8:09 pm 
Chandler and I climbed Stickney today from Olney Creek road. The gate is unlocked, however my Subaru couldn't make it past all the berms in the first mile. Thankfully we had bikes (to push uphill). The brush was dripping with dew and we spent the first half of the day trying to stay warm in our wet clothes. Could this really be mid-July? Doesn't seem like it.
We found the climbers/fisherman path to One Acre Lake after going past it and then backtracking. This section between the road and the lake is very brushy now. Not sure if it's gotten worse since the road closure or if it's always been that way. But fortunately there were a lot of flags. In fact, too many. Different groups have flagged different route variations and some of them are worse than others.
Prospect Peak
Prospect Peak
Anyhow, we made it to the lake and the hardest part of the route was probably climbing the brush between the lake and the upper tarns. Bugs were bad in the vicinity as can be expected. Not much of a climbers path to be found there. Above the tarns we made our way over to the small basin below the peak. A couple of small snowfields looked intimidating to us since we were in trail runners, but they proved to be trivial.
Currently a long runner dangles down the left side of the gully. Now I must say this gully was very mossy and very wet. If there's any 4th class anywhere on the standard route, it's only the very first move off the ground. Above that it's wet slippery mossy class 3.
waiting for views
waiting for views
still waiting
still waiting
Zekes
Zekes
Spire Point and Conglomerate Point
Spire Point and Conglomerate Point
Sperry and Morningstar
Sperry and Morningstar
Above the gully we turned left and followed the crest. It narrowed a bit and there was some exposure, but we didn't feel the need to use the 30 meter rope or runners I had brought. No register present on the summit. Bummer. Thick clouds and no view, double bummer. We agreed to wait for one hour to see if the view would open up. After about 55 minutes it started to happen and then we had semi-views all around.
I made a single rappel to the base of the gully, but Chandler opted to just scramble down the wet moss. The bikes enabled us to make good time on the way down the road, however I'm not a good enough rider for some of the rougher sections and I walked almost all the 30+ berms.

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awilsondc
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awilsondc
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PostThu Jul 14, 2016 8:33 pm 
Nice trip! I can identify with the waiting for views part. I did a fair bit of the same today. Where is our sunshine!?!

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Justus S.
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Justus S.
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PostSat Jul 16, 2016 11:30 pm 
One of my favorite peaks, a lot of remote terrain around there. Also climbed in July but had snow all the way to that notch. [url=https://flic.kr/p/3JzrBi]
Mt Stickney
Mt Stickney

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Fletcher
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PostSun Jul 17, 2016 8:09 am 
I missed this, didn't know you'd gotten up there. Nice!

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Gimpilator
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PostMon Jul 18, 2016 6:49 am 
Justus S. wrote:
One of my favorite peaks, a lot of remote terrain around there.
I thought about you while I was out there because I know you've done a lot in this area. I was actually really surprised to see so many gnarly little peaks around. The peaks east and southeast of Spada are somewhat overlooked and forgotten. I was recently invited to climb Frostbite and I had to look on the map to see where it was. I'm sure you've seen Sultan Guy's big traverse report. That was amazing!

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mprudhon
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PostMon Sep 19, 2016 1:57 pm 
Hey Guys, If I go up there in my jeep do you think I get over most of the water breaks? Thanks, Mark

"By failing to prepare, you prepare to fail" Ben Franklin
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Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Location: Edmonds, WA
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PostTue Sep 20, 2016 6:34 am 
It's hard to say based on my memory exactly how far you could make it. At least a bit father than we did.

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