Forum Index > Trip Reports > Forbidden Peak, East Ledges, 07/18/2020
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Alden Ryno
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Posts: 142 | TRs | Pics
Location: Issaquah, WA
Alden Ryno
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PostWed Jul 22, 2020 3:57 pm 
Forbidden Peak, 07/18/2020 East Ledges, part of East Ridge. Mileage: ~10 miles. Gain: 5,800`. The Boston Basin TH was jam-packed, so I parked up the road in a turnout and slept next to the car.
Mmhmm
Mmhmm
On the move at 0345, I got to the TH at 0350 and began the fun schwack. Truthfully not that bad, but definitely more interesting in the dark. I followed some tracks off route, which I was suspect of because they began to gain elevation quickly. I stopped after 3 minutes and check my GPS. Yep, off. I knew there was a good quarter mile or more of flat stuff before switchbacks. I reversed course and was back on the trail. Not another mishap for the day! The climber's trail wasn't too bad. It had a nice interval effect of being steep for a bit then a short flatter section for a few rounds.
About to bust.
About to bust.
There were a few larger Creek crossings, but I was able to rock hop them easily enough. Some opted to ford or take off their shoes.
Breaking through the clouds or clouds moving out? Yes, please.
Breaking through the clouds or clouds moving out? Yes, please.
I reach rough treeline in Boston Basin at 0530 and broke through the clouds on the basin moraine/Ridge at 0550.
Human crossing snow, Forbidden above.
Human crossing snow, Forbidden above.
It was going to be a GOOOOOD day! The sun was just hitting Johannesburg yet not touching the clouds, yet. Snow travel began at 0605 at 6,100'. It was firm and easy enough to move over with trailrunners. Crampons were added by a water source at 7,150', just below the hourglass into upper Boston Basin (Forbidden Basin?).
West Ridgers
West Ridgers
One can see the fracture in which a climber lunch through this morning.
One can see the fracture in which a climber lunch through this morning.
I shifted right up the basin, away from everyone else and climbed a moderately steep snowed Couloir to reach rock at 8,000' and at 0800.
Ascended right of image.
Ascended right of image.
Transitioning to rock.
Transitioning to rock.
Rock was the predominant surface of travel to the col at nearly 8,400'. This was at 0840.
Boston, Sahale, and the Qieun Sabe.
Boston, Sahale, and the Qieun Sabe.
North Ridge and Boston Glacier.
North Ridge and Boston Glacier.
I dropped about 100' to the East Ledges and rrzied thay the route was going to be nearly as tumultuous (on the ledges) as I was led to believe. It still highly consequential, but not as difficult as I would have thought.
Ledges Terrain. Wide angle distorts it a bit much.
Ledges Terrain. Wide angle distorts it a bit much.
Ledges terrain, looking back over what I covered.
Ledges terrain, looking back over what I covered.
Ample terrain like this. I could bivy on that!
Ample terrain like this. I could bivy on that!
North Ridge.
North Ridge.
I traversed along 8,300' or so for a while until jeering the north ridge. I began my ascent too early and gained the east ridge. It was fun!! While I was free-soloing the ridge, I knew that I had ascended too early but went with it since everything felt secure and I don't mind exposure.
North Ridge and Ledges ascent terrain.
North Ridge and Ledges ascent terrain.
Ascent "gully." Summit only 14 minutes after this image was taken.
Ascent "gully." Summit only 14 minutes after this image was taken.
It got more intense after this, so I didn't think to take pictures, mind was on other things. I tagged the summit at 0930 and sat for 30 minutes sunbathing and wondering when one of the parties would come up the West Ridge. Not a soul materialized. frown.gif
Summit shot east.
Summit shot east.
Iconic summit shot west with a ginger finger.
Iconic summit shot west with a ginger finger.
PokéPal.
PokéPal.
McGoober.
McGoober.
I began my descent at 1000 and dropped directly off the summit block instead of reversing in the ridge. It was much less technical that the ridge but moreso than the ledges. I reversed track back to the col at 1045.
What I used to drop off the summit block.
What I used to drop off the summit block.
East Ridgers, party 1.
East Ridgers, party 1.
East Ridgers, party 2.
East Ridgers, party 2.
More of the ascent/downclimb terrain.
More of the ascent/downclimb terrain.
I sat for another 30 minutes letting my socks and shoes dry and taking in the scenery. Wowowowow. Splendid sights.
Chilling for another half hour.
Chilling for another half hour.
Condition of the Quien Sabe Glacier.
Condition of the Quien Sabe Glacier.
Not much to say about the descent. The views were better than the ascent; part more light, part relief and feeling of a successful summit and return. Lots of shoe skiing and trotting down the trail to get back to the car at 1345 for a 2 minutes under 10 hour round-trip.
Car ad anyone?
Car ad anyone?

RossJames
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raising3hikers
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Joined: 21 Sep 2007
Posts: 2295 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, Wa
raising3hikers
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PostWed Jul 22, 2020 7:13 pm 
Yeah, an east ledges route. That route is scenic and fun when you have to go solo. Nice climb!

Eric Eames
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Alden Ryno
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Joined: 04 Jun 2019
Posts: 142 | TRs | Pics
Location: Issaquah, WA
Alden Ryno
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PostThu Jul 23, 2020 5:10 am 
Thanks, Eric! It was an excellent trip and quite a bit less intimidating than reports had made it seem (a prevailing theme).

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silence
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silence
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PostThu Jul 23, 2020 6:06 am 
Nice work! up.gif up.gif up.gif

PHOTOS | FILMMAKING Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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