[Fletcher]

Selena, Trace, Riley and I got Garfield yesterday. Out for an easy hike the day before; Selena, Riley and I discussed how Garfield might go the next day and decided to go for it. At 5:40 on Sunday morning, we were hiking along the east side of the Taylor River. All were stoked. An easy mile or so through open forest along the river and we turned right and uphill toward Garfield. The approach is easy for such a difficult peak. After crossing the creek that drains the basin in which we would eventually arrive, we headed uphill.

starting out

Trillium

crossing

Around 2000ft we reached the talus field. This is quickly followed by a second talus field and more open forest until reaching the "magic passageway" that skirts through a series of cliffs at 2300ft. We were all very thankful that Selena had been through here before and knew the way. I was also impressed by whoever first figured out this improbable route. It really threads the needle through those cliffs.

talus field

nice n soggy

waterfall slab section

just trying to find the summit of Mount Garfield

soggy

Upon arrival into the NW basin of Garfield, the weather seemed to be improving. We linked existing snowfields together for easier travel until reaching continuous snow a couple hundred feet further up.

summit is the snowy peak second from the right

nice booting snow

nice travel

the summit ahead

As noted in Stefan's 11 year old report, the upper basin is a very cool place. We stopped to gear up near some car sized ice and snow debris to drop a few things and gear up for the summit. The gully looked imposing with at least a few breaks in the snow that we would have to negotiate.

arriving in the basin

heading up the gully

the team

150 feet up or so, we came to the first moat. It was continuous across the gully and I initially thought our attempt was over right there. The shortest step across would involve a large step up onto overhanging snow. Trace saved the day when he figured a way to MacGyver this step. He placed a bomber picket in the snow above the step with a long runner attached to it, which we used as a sort of ladder step to aid our way up this big step. It was on!

the first moat

the crossing

making it work

While Selena and Riley negotiated the first moat, Trace and I climbed 100 feet further up to investigate the second. The second moat was also a continuous break across the entire gully, this one with a really short step across to 15 feet of nearly vertical water ice. I hesitated for a few minutes while everyone made their way up, until I decided to go for it. Fun stuff! Beyond the ice step, I was able to climb easy snow all the way to the col and set up a belay for the others at a tree.

the second break

the ice step

Selena climbing the upper gully

From the col, I lead the last 3 mixed pitches to the summit. The first pitch began has headily thin snow on heather and rock, leaving the col, but got deeper and more solid 50 feet up. Where the snow was deep enough, I was able to place bomber pickets. There are also numerous trees for good pro along most of this route.

the first pitch

leaving the col

The second pitch we climbed began as snow but finished on a long chossy step of mixed snow, rock, dirt, and shrubby terrain with no pro. It was a little sketchy. I found a tight belay off a tree just as I was running out of rope.

the second pitch

Trace and Selena at our last belay

The last pitch was a short second of rotten snow followed by a long bit of nice 4th class rock to the summit ridge. Shortly after that, I experienced Garfield Glory and set up a fixed line for the others to make their way up. No views to be had on this day.

the last pitch

a damaged register

Trace on the finish

Garfield Glory

our entry

views

From the summit, I noticed a large widowmaker snow-mass that was threatening to slide off Leaning Spire and kill our entire party while we spend 90 minutes climbing the gully. We could not see it from below, but I dont think I would have gotten close to that gully at all had I known what was threatening us from above.

the widowmaker snow-mass

From the summit, we made it down to the col in three 60m double rope rappels. From the col, we decided that our only real option was to descend the gully to safety as quickly and efficiently as possible. I rapped off a tree at the col and was able to barely make it to below the ice step. From there, I placed one of Jake's old pickets while the others descended to me. One more 60m rappel got us below the first moat to easy plunge stepping snow and the safety of the basin.

rapping to the col

descending the gully

Selena coming down

the team descending to safety

We regrouped in the basin, packed up our climbing gear and went out the way we came as the sun finally came out at about 6:30pm.

the sun finally came out

the secret passageway

The descent went quickly and we arrived back at the car before we needed headlamps. Awesome day! ~9.7 miles ~4,545 ft of gain ~14:52 car to car

[Bluebird]

Thank you for your bold leads up the summit block, Fletcher! Garfield is a huge get and I am so pleased. Jake wanted this peak and would be very proud of us right now. It's fitting that his sumtec, crampons and picket all made it to the summit with us. Here are my photos 😁

[Mike Collins]

Thank you for refreshing the memories. My partner and I used that route on a mid-February climb 20 years ago. The snowmass you mentioned would dump about three boxcars of snow on the unfortunate heads below if it broke. The ford of the Taylor is chilly for sure. We did not protect the climb but if I go back will definitely bring pickets.

[iron]

[GaliWalker]

It's amazing how miserable it all looks, until you get to the pictures of the return with the sun out. It must have taken a lot of motivation to suffer through the climb.

[Stefan]

Cool! Too bad the sun came out AFTER! Looks like a little less snow when we were there, which was ....many years ago.

[RichP]

Awesome work.

[ONELUV1]

Sweet climb everyone! I think Jake was gaurding that widow maker for you.

[NBL]

Inspiring effort. Great work! Glad luck was on your side with the overhead hazard.

[neek]

been looking forward to this one. wow!

[Josh Journey]

Great going gettin Garfield. Up next Infinite Bliss.

[mosey]

Impressive navigation of the enigma cliffs and good pics for the weather

[Nancyann]

Congratulations on a great effort. I love the big smiles in the summit pic. What an accomplishment!

[raising3hikers]

Nice work getting a tough peak.

[Mark Hadland]

Most impressive effort! Congratulations on a great summit on such an infrequently climbed peak! Looks much better climb in the snow.