Forum Index > Trip Reports > Warrior Peak (Olympics) 7-2-22
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awilsondc
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awilsondc
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PostWed Jul 06, 2022 7:12 pm 
10 years ago I had a failed attempt on Warrior Peak with Jake and Paul Robinson. We got to the saddle between the NW and SE peaks but didn't have crampons and axe to cross the snow, and the class 5 route was too much for us to solo. Last year I climbed Inner Constance and attempted route 2 in the OMCG, but couldn't figure it out with foggy conditions over the route and bailed. This time I finally got it done! The day was supposed to have been spent in the North Cascades on a 3 day trip, but a bad weather forecast made that look like a bad idea. Another planned trip ruined by our lovely weather this year! Fortunately Chris Poulos from the PNW Peak Baggers FB group reached out with the idea of Warrior Peak. I was game. I only had the Saturday free, but he had much more time and wanted to do it as a multi day trip. So, he hiked up the night before to the cirque below Warrior and I got up at 1:40am to meet him up there in the morning. It would be our first time meeting in person, and in the high alpine at that! I got to the trailhead around sunrise and quickly got a move on. The trail is is super chill, but long. It starts out in some of the most beautiful forest in the state IMO with the Dungeness River near by for the first 3.5 miles to Camp Handy, absolutely gorgeous! From Camp Handy to Boulder Shelter is another 3.2 miles and 1800 ft gain, very well graded and never very steep. Then, it's another 2.5 miles to where the cross country portion begins at the start of a boulder field. No snow at all on the trail. From there it's uphill a couple hundred feet to get above the brush, a short traverse to the base of some cliffs, and another few hundred feet to the cirque where Chris was camped. I made it pretty much exactly as anticipated, around 9:45 (4:10 from the TH). Chris was there getting ready for the summit. We gave introductions and chatted a bit before gearing up for the summit!
Early forest
Early forest
A favorite spot of mine
A favorite spot of mine
The gorgeous Dungeness River!
The gorgeous Dungeness River!
Clearing
Clearing
Near the second bridge
Near the second bridge
Last water crossing, the waterfall
Last water crossing, the waterfall
Warrior from the boulder field
Warrior from the boulder field
The route goes up a gully to a fairly obvious saddle, between the NW and SE peaks. When it's melted out (as when I climbed it 10 years ago) it's some of the worst scree I've encountered and very frustrating to ascend, but super fun on the way down. Fortunately for us, the gully was snow filled which made it much easier to climb up! We made decent time to the saddle and put on crampons there for the traverse to the scramble route. Starting across, the snow was great for making steps and the run out completely snow covered (don't count on that later in the season) and very forgiving. At the end of the traverse we ascended a steep snow finger and transitioned onto rock to get onto the scramble route ledge. This turned out to be the crux, but only class 3 or class 4 depending on how you are feeling with the exposure which there was some. The route from here does a rising traverse on a ledge system that is class 3. At one point there is a chockstone type feature about 1/3 of the way up where we had an interesting experience...
Warrior Peak from the cirque
Warrior Peak from the cirque
Chris starting out from the cirque
Chris starting out from the cirque
Me starting up the gully (Chris's photo)
Me starting up the gully (Chris's photo)
In the gully, Inner Constance behind
In the gully, Inner Constance behind
Nearing the saddle (Chris's photo)
Nearing the saddle (Chris's photo)
The traverse, our snow finger upper right
The traverse, our snow finger upper right
Starting out on the traverse (Chris's photo)
Starting out on the traverse (Chris's photo)
The run out
The run out
A bit of steep snow (Chris's photo)
A bit of steep snow (Chris's photo)
Chris on the scramble, incident site above
Chris on the scramble, incident site above
Wide angel to show exposure (looks worse than it felt)
Wide angel to show exposure (looks worse than it felt)
Me, just before the incident
Me, just before the incident
Class 2/3 ramp to the false summit
Class 2/3 ramp to the false summit
Chris was in the lead about 20 ft above me when his ice axe came loose off his pack. I watched it tumble and bounce off the rocks twice before coming spinning right at my face like a throwing axe. Like a ninja, I reached up and caught it mid air! Luckily my reflexes were working and it didn't skewer me or whizz by me and down the mountain possibly getting lost. It was a close call, and something to make the trip memorable! smile.gif The rest of the ascent was pretty uneventful and we soon found ourselves on the summit! Great views of Constance, Inner Constance, and the Mystery / Deception group. Constance and the Buckhorn area were clouded in initially but cleared up by the time we started down. The register dates back to the 90's and is pretty much full. It would be nice to bring a few more sheets to sign in on if you head up. We stayed for 40 minutes or so before heading down.
Inner Constance
Inner Constance
Warrior Peak summit pano (Where's Waldo?)
Warrior Peak summit pano (Where's Waldo?)
Chris scrambling around the false summit, Mystery/ Deception behind
Chris scrambling around the false summit, Mystery/ Deception behind
Deception
Deception
Mystery / Deception group
Mystery / Deception group
Summit boot shot
Summit boot shot
Mount Constance
Mount Constance
Summit register
Summit register
Summit selfie
Summit selfie
On the way down, we saw a group of three gearing up for the class 5 route. We waved our acknowledgements of each other. As we were traversing across, they were starting up snow to the base of the rock climb, setting pickets as they went. I think they were a guided group (all the same helmets, 2 had the same backpack). It didn't seem necessary to set pickets there, but whatever. We went with crampons for the descent back down the gully which was a good idea. The extra bite allowed us to plunge step down the firm snow, which was fun. Back at the cirque, we parted ways. Chris was going to pack up and take his time down, I was going to hurry back to get home in time to read a bedtime story to my kids. It was a great hike out! T shirt and shorts weather and a cool breeze, it felt so good! I ran most of the portion that had a gentle downhill grade and just made it home in time to see my kids before bed. It was a great day! It was awesome meeting Chris, and satisfying to finally make it to the summit of Warrior.
On descent (NW Warrior)
On descent (NW Warrior)
Down climbing the scramble (Chris's photo)
Down climbing the scramble (Chris's photo)
Chris on a ledge, Buckhorn group behind
Chris on a ledge, Buckhorn group behind
Traversing back to the saddle, other group heading up
Traversing back to the saddle, other group heading up
Traversing back (Chris's photo)
Traversing back (Chris's photo)
Down the gully (Chris's photo)
Down the gully (Chris's photo)
Exiting the gully
Exiting the gully
Inner Constance
Inner Constance
Back to camp, stoked!
Back to camp, stoked!
Rhodies in bloom
Rhodies in bloom
Light dappled forest
Light dappled forest
Dungeness River, second bridge
Dungeness River, second bridge
Forest out
Forest out
20.8 miles 5900 ft gain 12:30 c2c

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Off Route Randy
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Off Route Randy
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PostWed Jul 06, 2022 10:43 pm 
Nice job with the ninja moves to save the axe! Great photos as always. Coincidentally I was going to attempt Warrior on Tuesday but had a Covid outbreak at work. At least now I know to bring up some paper for the register if I plan on making another go at it soon.

awilsondc
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Gimpilator
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostThu Jul 07, 2022 7:30 am 
Good work going back for this one, and nice catch. I too had a failed attempt. Having seen your report, I might go try the ledge route.

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Fletcher
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Fletcher
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PostThu Jul 07, 2022 9:04 am 
Nicely done! Warrior is a nice peak.

awilsondc
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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostTue Jul 12, 2022 6:09 pm 
nice job on catching the axe. a true Warrior!

Art is an adventure.

awilsondc
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pwrobinson
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pwrobinson
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PostWed Jul 13, 2022 6:13 am 
Nice climb Aaron. Truly appreciate you putting Jake's name in the summit register. Now you have both!

Fletcher  awilsondc
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awilsondc
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awilsondc
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PostWed Jul 13, 2022 3:24 pm 
pwrobinson wrote:
Nice climb Aaron. Truly appreciate you putting Jake's name in the summit register. Now you have both!
He was in my heart the whole trip. Feels good to finally make it up there! Here's his entry from Lemah which I did last week.
:lol:
lol.gif
It always puts a smile on my face when I come across his name in a register.

ozzy, pwrobinson
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