[Gimpilator]

Matt and I wanted to climb The Chief, but the standard route via Carbon River has a washed-out foot bridge, so we started at Sunrise instead. We hiked past the Burroughs and Skyscraper, spooking a bear along the way. Plenty of goats hanging around Skyscraper.

bear

Sluiskin and goats

We got to our camping area so early on day 1, we agreed to do the peaks immediately, rather than wait until the next day. After fording the west fork White River we made our way off-trail up through some blowdown to Vernal Park. There is a steep loose gully on the south side of Sluiskin which I had been wondering about for years. Today was the day to try it.

dropping to the west fork

The Chief

Vernal Park

gully

The gully was just as steep and loose as expected, but not as bad as it might have been. Nearer the top of the chute, we cut left onto more solid ledges covered in rubble. The weather was not as advertised, with lots of clouds and cold wind ripping through the saddle.

The Chief

off route

on route

At first we tried to climb the north ridge of the summit block, but that wasn't right. We soon figured out you must start below a notch in the ridge on some down-sloping ledges. The 20 foot crux is extremely awkward and I was glad we brought the rope. Thanks for always leading the cruxes Matt!

We didn't hang out long on the summit because it was late in the game. We did 2 short raps, not using the uppermost of the 3 total belay stations. We quickly returned to Vernal Park. I had told Matt on the summit of The Chief that we could make it to the summit of Old Desolate by 7pm and that prediction turned out to be exactly correct, to the very minute. It was a full white-out, but with an occasional partial-reveal of Rainier.

photo by Matt

We descended the west side to rejoin the Wonderland trail and then hiked down past Mystic Lake on the way back to camp. Made it to camp without the need for headlamps. Did not see a single person all day, except when we were leaving Sunrise that first morning. Smoot list 86/100

photo by Matt

photo of Matt

[raising3hikers]

Nice job getting those peaks, looks like more work than I thought

[Fletcher]

The Gimp is back! And making The Chief look like a fun climb. Well done guys!

[awilsondc]

It feel so good seeing a WA report from you. Welcome back, and great job! That's a fun area. I didn't know about the washed out foot bridge, thanks for the heads up!

[silence]

For what it's worth, not being a climber, I think this approach was an excellent choice, and one I'd never even think of. It looks much more adventurous. Of course, I always wanted to get into Vernal Park, w/o the climb up to the Elysian Fields from Moraine Park or up from Windy Pass, so that is esp appealing. Now I know how we would've wanted to do it. Great report and wonderful photos.

[ozzy]

Awesome trip guys!! Man, the chief looks fun!! Ive yet to venture to this corner of the park, think I might check it next trip up there. Looking forward to more of your TRs now that you're back!! Cheers dood!